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 > FORD 460 Overheating Mystery

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honda1

paola kansas

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Posted: 09/11/20 03:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cores inside radiator plugged up , either rot out cores or new radiator, id put new radiator on .

Gjac

Milford, CT

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Posted: 09/11/20 03:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wouldn't sell it yet before looking at several other things. In my previous post I asked if you can spin the fan clutch when cold by hand, check that. Also check your radiator at temp from inlet to outlet with your IR gun in a 4 in grid pattern and record the readings. Especially check in front of the fan clutch area on the radiator any cold readings will indicate a blockage in the radiator. If your cooling system is operating correctly you should see about a 50 F degree difference from inlet to outlet. Third thing to check is how far does your thermostat open in boiling water. I have seen new ones out of the box only open an 1/8 in, you should see a 1/4 in gap. What temperature thermostat do you have? Does your thermostat have a poppet in the flange? These 3 checks won't cost you anything and will tell you a lot about your issue.

time2roll

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Posted: 09/11/20 04:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does it have normal power?
Have you run it with no thermostat?
Has the water pump ever been replaced?
Has anyone checked the actual coolant flow?


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goprolocal

Gilbert, Arizona

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Posted: 09/11/20 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does it have normal power? It does. Runs great!
Have you run it with no thermostat? Haven't tried that but we've replaced the thermostat 3 times now in the last year.
Has the water pump ever been replaced? Yep, no change
Has anyone checked the actual coolant flow? I don't believe we have done this but I'll mention it to the shop. The did 'vacuum fill' the block and radiator with coolant in case there was some air bubble or something ...no change.

I'm thinking checking the coolant flow might be the next thing to check. Other than that ??????

time2roll

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Posted: 09/11/20 05:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would run no thermostat until you get this sorted out.

Not sure the best way to verify coolant volume and flow. This is the key to expelling heat. Need good engine and radiator flow volume. Possibly a clear tube cut into a radiator hose for observation. Or just fill with plain water and observe how fast the water is expelled as you moderately rev up the engine. (no thermostat)

Was the cooling system ever neglected (prior owner?) where you might suspect there was rust or corrosion issues? This could plug some internal passages such as through the head gasket. Although I doubt this is the issue (long shot and expensive)

down home

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Posted: 09/11/20 05:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No thermostat could actually make it run hotter indicated or not. Coolant has to have time to be saturated with the heat no designed resistance and it can with a high flow high performance water pump overheat. I've sen high performance engines start to run hot as blow by becomes more. Also carbon in the heads increase the need for higher octane. As it is now, getting hot running on down the road and the shroud is in pace and intact a larger radiator might work. Water hoses may be misrouted as I have no idea of what a motor home compartment for a gas engine is configured. Flow though the radiator not around it is essential Perhaps a transmission cooler has been installed in front of the radiator or something is blocking it.
I haven't read all the posts but try higher octane fuel, if you are not already.
Or cheaper add a bottle of octane booster but not the ones not a molded hose but a piece of hose so severly bend it was crimped and no flow.

crawford

Dandridge Tenn.

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Posted: 09/11/20 06:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No thermostat make water flow to quick and no chance to cool down through radiator will make it run even hotter.


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time2roll

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Posted: 09/11/20 06:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

crawford wrote:

No thermostat make water flow to quick and no chance to cool down through radiator will make it run even hotter.
Maybe the OP can see for himself. I have done this on several engines. Big blocks, 4 bangers, high performance, stock, all of them always slow to warm up and runs cold.

Not a solution, just for testing.

crawford

Dandridge Tenn.

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Posted: 09/11/20 06:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

if you have a therm scanner check it cooling in and going out not if radiator restriction in it it may at to slow flow water down. Or prove me wrong get a real book by schools who teach coarse

garry1p

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Posted: 09/11/20 07:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

goprolocal wrote:

UPDATE:

The shop has had the rig for 6 weeks or so. I've been back 2x to test drive it after they said they had it fixed.

Here's what they did.
Replaced the radiator hoses, replaced the clutch fan, flushed the block and radiator, replaced the thermostat (for the 3rd time in 6 months).

At this point, I drive the rig for 15 minutes down the highway at 65mph. With the overdrive off (to simulate engine rpms while towing) it runs at 220-230 degrees for 12-14 minutes...then in the next 2 minute period, the temp guage clicks ..jumping 10 degrees at a time...in 2 minutes, I'm at 255 degrees. When I turn the overdrive on again, it cools to 245 or so.

Everything I can think of has been checked on the motor...could this be the transmission? The rig sat for a long time before we bought it...in cold temperatures. Could this have something to do with it?

I'm reaching out to a transmission shop next. ugh.



I did not see where the sending unit has been replaced or tested with another gauge and sending unit.

I had a car with temp problems and it was corrosion at the sending unit causing a bad ground and bad reading.


Garry1p


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