jimh425
Western MT
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Joined: 06/11/2006
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I’m sure there is a “way” to remove the fridge. But, if you’ve worked on anything, you know the engineering is kind of off at times. Not a big deal it’s just the engineers are the QA for engineers and the mechanics and customers should be. ![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/grin.gif "grin")
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Hankook DH-01 225/19.5 Fs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
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Freep
Wisconsin
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Joined: 04/14/2017
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Paradox123 wrote:
We run our fridge on DC when traveling. The solar panels keep the batteries fully charged as long as there is daylight.
Same here, when I remember to switch it to DC before we leave. But we charge the batteries from the truck alternator as well as solar.
2014 Lance 992
2014 Ram 3500 DRW Turbo diesel
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BurbMan
Islip, Long Island
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Joined: 09/20/2001
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I was able to find a brand new scratch/dent Dometic 2551 for almost the same price as just the cooling unit. Picked it up in Elkhart this weekend along with the roll of Filon. The original was the Dometic 2554 is 3-way, the 2551 is only 2-way. We only have room on the roof for 100w of solar, which is about 5 a/h, the fridge draws 15 a/h running on 12v, so if we stop for lunch and turn the truck off, I'd need to switch the fridge to gas anyways to keep the battery from going dead.
Will be pulling the slide this week, stay tuned,
2015 Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab Long Box, Cummins diesel
2002 Lance 811 Slide-In Camper
SOLD: 2008 Terry 34' TT
SOLD: 2001 K2500LT 8.1L Suburban
Lance 811 Renovation Story!
Project Complete!
Maiden Voyage!
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Buzzcut1
Norcal
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Joined: 10/04/2010
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BurbMan wrote:I was able to find a brand new scratch/dent Dometic 2551 for almost the same price as just the cooling unit. Picked it up in Elkhart this weekend along with the roll of Filon. The original was the Dometic 2554 is 3-way, the 2551 is only 2-way. We only have room on the roof for 100w of solar, which is about 5 a/h, the fridge draws 15 a/h running on 12v, so if we stop for lunch and turn the truck off, I'd need to switch the fridge to gas anyways to keep the battery from going dead.
Will be pulling the slide this week, stay tuned,
The flat area of the roof is not the only place for a panel. On the slight slope of the nose on either side of the hatch on the cabover I was easily able to mount 2 100 watt panels on my 2008 Lance 1055
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 08 Lance 1055, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags
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GoinThisAway
middle TN
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Slymer wrote:I watched a video once where they put a moving blanket on the dinette after setting it down. Took the old fridge out, put it on moving blanket & cut it in half and out the door. Then the new fridge they took apart, brought the pieces in to the blanket & put it back together & installed it Long process but it worked without damage. Can't remember where I saw it.
Not a video but this Truck Camper Magazine article shows the same process you describe.
2008 Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4
2008 Bigfoot 25C10.4
Torklift/Fastguns/Hellwig/StableLoads
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ajriding
st clair
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Joined: 12/28/2004
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bigfootford wrote:What is wrong with these camper mfg's?
No way to remove a fridge?
That is some damning engineering in my opinion, or lack of!
Jim
RV engineers are the failed or washed out auto-wannabe engineers that could not hack it...
2-way vs 3-way??
3-way is for dummies, and is a selling point for newbies who don't know anything yet. It is not bad to have the DC option, but just not very important in the scheme of things. Don't fret getting a 2-way. Running the fridge heating element on DC power has no advantages and is not useful unless some emergency, like u run out of propane... Running on DC will kill batteries, and running on DC while driving will be hard on the vehicle alternator, which is also expensive, and for non-do-it-yourselfers expensive to have replaced. Running DC off solar would work if you have a roof full of panels which is way more expensive than a little bit of propane...
2-way is all I would ever want. Run it on propane while driving and parked, on AC when plugged in, and never on DC if at all possible...
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Kayteg1
California > Nevada
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Joined: 06/18/2015
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ajriding wrote:
3-way is for dummies, and is a selling point for newbies who don't know anything yet. It is not bad to have the DC option, but just not very important in the scheme of things. Don't fret getting a 2-way. Running the fridge heating element on DC power has no advantages and is not useful unless some emergency, like u run out of propane... Running on DC will kill batteries, and running on DC while driving will be hard on the vehicle alternator, which is also expensive, and for non-do-it-yourselfers expensive to have replaced. Running DC off solar would work if you have a roof full of panels which is way more expensive than a little bit of propane...
2-way is all I would ever want. Run it on propane while driving and parked, on AC when plugged in, and never on DC if at all possible...
I beg you to differ.
Not only as mentioned above- running on 12V having solar makes lot of sense, but I used my old TC fridge in my Sprinter van conversion with no propane.
Van has 250 amp alternator, dual AC and 4-cylinder engine can idle using 1/4 gallon of diesel per hr.
So the idea is to use van engine as generator.
Beside, 12V element, depends on fridge takes 10-20 amp, so it can run 2-4 hr on single battery (good for lunch stops).
But bare in mind that 12V elements are having smaller output than other ways. Driving often in 120F, occasionally I switch on inverter and run fridge on 120V mode.
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