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Bobbo

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Posted: 07/08/20 07:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I owned a motorhome for 10 years that was built on a 2006 Ford E450 chassis with the V-10 engine. It was bulletproof.


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DrewE

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Posted: 07/08/20 08:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

I would look at MH's that were 2006 or newer. Both Ford or Chevy had engine and chassis improvements beginning that year HP was 362 and 340 respectively. Chevy had the better transmission but both were much better than previous years.


It's perhaps worth noting that the Ford E series chassis used for class C motorhomes doesn't have the higher-power version of the V10 engine (the three-valve version). There have been various improvements in the V10 over the years for the E series, of course, but no large jumps in power. For a class A motorhome (excepting the very few built on an E series chassis, such as the Thor Ace) the three-valve engine with the horsepower increase is well worth taking into account.

Also be aware that the chassis model year is fairly often a year behind the finished motorhome model year. The RV manufacturer determines the model year of the final vehicle, based on when it was completed, rather than on the date when the chassis rolled off chassis assembly line.





Gjac

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Posted: 07/08/20 02:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DrewE wrote:

Gjac wrote:

I would look at MH's that were 2006 or newer. Both Ford or Chevy had engine and chassis improvements beginning that year HP was 362 and 340 respectively. Chevy had the better transmission but both were much better than previous years.


It's perhaps worth noting that the Ford E series chassis used for class C motorhomes doesn't have the higher-power version of the V10 engine (the three-valve version). There have been various improvements in the V10 over the years for the E series, of course, but no large jumps in power. For a class A motorhome (excepting the very few built on an E series chassis, such as the Thor Ace) the three-valve engine with the horsepower increase is well worth taking into account.

Also be aware that the chassis model year is fairly often a year behind the finished motorhome model year. The RV manufacturer determines the model year of the final vehicle, based on when it was completed, rather than on the date when the chassis rolled off chassis assembly line.
Drew you are right, I assumed he was looking for a Class A. I think the V-10 in the C only produces 305 HP VS 362 in the 3 valve Class A.

Harvey51

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Posted: 07/12/20 07:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We bought a 2004 E350 in 2008. No mechanical problems so far. After reading about spark plug problems I looked for a shop with knowledgeable mechanic. Now my feeling that our beloved C is half way through its lifetime I asked the owner/chief mechanic to change spark plugs and their coils plus basic maintenance things like transmission and cooling system fluid changes. The mechanic said there was no problem changing spark plugs and no need for new coils. He appreciated me bringing it in during the not so busy winter time and bringing it Home when busy.. After 6 months it’s all finished except for shocks and rear end oil change.

I changed oil every September, fuel filter once, and of course tires. I modified the radio so it can be used when the engine is off. Added a rear facing camera, house battery monitor, replaced propane leak alarm and CO alarm.

My only worry is being afraid to change a dual wheel tire. Time to get insurance for roadside help as we camp mostly in remote regions.


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DrewE

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Posted: 07/12/20 10:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Harvey51 wrote:


My only worry is being afraid to change a dual wheel tire. Time to get insurance for roadside help as we camp mostly in remote regions.


Assuming you have the right tools (an appropriate jack and lug wrench, etc.), changing one of the dually wheels for the spare isn't really any different from changing a front wheel. It's exactly the same process, and the lug nut torques are the same. The jacking point, on the axle under the spring mount, is maybe a tiny bit harder to get access to; but it's not that far buried. Of course, if it's an inner tire that needs changing, you do have to remove the outer to get to the inner, and replace it afterwards.

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