Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Old fresh water tank spout replacement help
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Old fresh water tank spout replacement help

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
darla_m

Iowa

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2020

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/01/20 09:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi I’m new here but hoping to get a little help on an issue.
I’m a new rv owner. I bought an old 1970s holiday rambler 25’ trailer for dirt cheap and am restoring it.
Not having much experience with water/plumbing systems and the like, I’m coming here for advice.
The freshwater tank is a large metal cylinder style tank that fits under the bed with a pvc pipe fitting to the outside as a spout. My understanding is that the water pump is actually an air pump that pressurizes the tank for water pressure as opposed to pumping actual water. (?) there is also a copper tube to the outside next to the full spout with a little valve im guessing to release air pressure from the tank before filling it.
Needless to say the pvc spout/cap of the tank are completely shot from 40+ years exposure to elements. I need to replace it but of course no one makes anything like this anymore to my understanding. It’s a combination city water spout with a place to screw in a hose in addition to a regular fill spout. Tried glueing in an attempt to seal cracks in the pvc but the city water joint (that lets water in but shouldn’t let air out) is leaky even when simply holding water. I’m guessing that if the tank needs to be pressurized to work, I really need a solid seal on this.

I’m under a strict time and budget constraint so would REALLY love to not have to replace the entire tank/pump set up.

Does anyone have any ideas/advice/resources on how I could get some kind of replacement for this spout? Is it worth trying to mess with adapting new spouts to fit on to the 2” pvc pipe going into my tank? Would modern spouts even work under pressure? I would be incredibly grateful for anyone’s advice!

Tyler0215

Iowa

Senior Member

Joined: 03/13/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/01/20 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It sounds like a Rube Goldberg device. Maybe junk the whole system and get a new tank, water pump and switch and install it properly. A fifty year old metal water tank is probably filled with rust, and who knows what else. The air inlet might be for winterizing?

BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 07/01/20 10:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

These are helpful for that kind of problem. Going from good part of old pipe to new pipe for the spout end.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fernco-2-in-x-2........e-Repair-Coupling-PVC-Fitting/1002464040


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas

agesilaus

North Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2008

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/01/20 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ditto buy a 12V water pump and maybe replace the tank. The pumps are not expensive. water pumps and neither are the tanks


Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2012 Ford F-350 4WD Lariat 6.7L
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper


NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

Senior Member

Joined: 11/27/2005

View Profile



Posted: 07/01/20 11:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I remember those types of fresh water systems from long ago. The fill cap on the outside of the trailer typically had a PSI gauge built into it. I would be very cautious about pressuring a 40+ year old tank like that. A tank that I can guarantee you nobody has ever given a second thought to inspecting or testing, and probably never had any type of corrosion prevention, like an anode.

In my opinion, you have two options. Either retain the metal cylinder and convert it to a demand system, which will require fixing the water leaks and installing a demand type water pump at minimum. Or, replace the entire system with a new plastic tank and a demand pump.

I would replace it with a new tank and demand pump, myself.

[emoticon][emoticon]


2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450


darla_m

Iowa

New Member

Joined: 07/01/2020

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/01/20 03:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi all, thanks so much for you feedback. In reading through your responses and in doing a little more research I’m thinking I may as well replace the tank and pump entirely. I’m going to such great lengths to make a beautiful interior that it would be a shame to have terrible water quality after all that!
I’m wondering though, on Amazon it seems that some of the water tanks specify that you should not hook them up to a hose... are there “special” kinds of tanks needed for being able to hook up to city water as well as just having a normal fill cap? I would like to be able to do both.
Thanks again in advance !

agesilaus

North Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2008

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/01/20 03:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So long as the tank is vented there should be no problem but the water tank is not 'connected to a city water hose', the hose is held by hand at the inlet fill connection, when water sprays out then the tank is filled. The tank is never pressurized.

MrWizard

Traveling

Moderator

Joined: 06/27/2004

View Profile



Posted: 07/01/20 06:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Modern RVs with city water hookup

The city inlet is after the pump
Between the pump and the rest of the water system
The city inlet does not fill the fresh water tank (it simply pressurizes the water lines) unless there is a bypass valve to open that goes around the pump
The FW tank is Never Ever pressurized by the city water system
Most RVs have a separate water fill inlet going to the FW tank not using the city hookup and a bypass valve and the RV water lines to back fill the FW


Radiate The Happy
....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s


beemerphile1

Ohio

Senior Member

Joined: 04/20/2007

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 07/01/20 06:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pressurized tanks used to be common in earlier RVs, I had some back in the past.

You may be able to retrofit the system using a modern demand pump. You will still need a way to fill the tank and will have to add a vent. If budget allows I would replace the old galvanized tank.


Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Old fresh water tank spout replacement help
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.