Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Cable Maintenance for Dump valves
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Cable Maintenance for Dump valves

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next
dpgllg

South West Pennsylvania

Senior Member

Joined: 10/17/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 07:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have 3 dump valves operated by cables. I've tried searching for how to maintain and lubricate them but haven't found much information.

What should I be doing to maintain them and what products should I be using? The pull handles are accessed through the front drivers side compartment below my Nautilus P1 water controls.

Thanks!

Dave


2013 2500HD Chevy LTZ 6.6 Diesel Ext Cab Long Bed
2017 Grand Design Reflection 27RL 5th Wheel
Dear Wife, plus two Cocker Spaniels and a Standard Poodle

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 08:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There really is no maintenance. It all depends on how the OEM looped the cables when installing. I have one of these from years ago and used it on the old Motorhome Heater control cables. I guess to could use it on the Valve cables. This tool allows you to inject WD 40 or similiar thru the interior of the cable where it slides. Doug

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Motorcy........locphy=9027230&hvtargid=pla-866972468293

schlep1967

Harrisburg, PA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/08/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 07/08/20 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've never installed a new dump valve and I have never seen instructions for installing them. I have had to take mine apart. Most recently this week for repairs from a tire blow out that broke off the end of the drain. One thing I noticed is if you over tighten the four bolts that hold the valve together, it will be hard to open and close. If somebody did some work on yours the bolts may be too tight.
If nobody worked on it you might be due to replace the valve. Really not that hard to do depending on the location under the trailer and the creativeness the factory used.


2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
2009 Open Range 385RLS
Pull-Rite Super Glide

CarnationSailor

Carnation,WA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/21/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 09:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

There really is no maintenance. It all depends on how the OEM looped the cables when installing. I have one of these from years ago and used it on the old Motorhome Heater control cables. I guess to could use it on the Valve cables. This tool allows you to inject WD 40 or similiar thru the interior of the cable where it slides. Doug


The description of the product you provided a link to does not say how it is used. If access to the entire length of the cable is required, then it won't work for me where I have zero ready access to the cable. I've squirted WD-40 where the cable enters the outer sheath, but that doesn't help. Also, only one of three cables is hard to operate and it has been this way since new 5 years ago, so maybe it is not a lubrication issue.


2015 Crossroads Rushmore Springfield
2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax


dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CarnationSailor wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

There really is no maintenance. It all depends on how the OEM looped the cables when installing. I have one of these from years ago and used it on the old Motorhome Heater control cables. I guess to could use it on the Valve cables. This tool allows you to inject WD 40 or similiar thru the interior of the cable where it slides. Doug


The description of the product you provided a link to does not say how it is used. If access to the entire length of the cable is required, then it won't work for me where I have zero ready access to the cable. I've squirted WD-40 where the cable enters the outer sheath, but that doesn't help. Also, only one of three cables is hard to operate and it has been this way since new 5 years ago, so maybe it is not a lubrication issue.


What you have to do is, access the actual Valve. Remove the Cable from the valve and then install this tool and spray the lube. What the tool does is clamp OVER the outer sheath and the tool then seals when you tighten it. YOu then insert the plastic spray tube from the WD 40 into the rubber grommet hole of that tool and spray until it comes out the other end of the cable. You cannot do this from the Handle end of the Valve system. Doug

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 12:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

schlep1967 wrote:

I've never installed a new dump valve and I have never seen instructions for installing them. I have had to take mine apart. Most recently this week for repairs from a tire blow out that broke off the end of the drain. One thing I noticed is if you over tighten the four bolts that hold the valve together, it will be hard to open and close. If somebody did some work on yours the bolts may be too tight.
If nobody worked on it you might be due to replace the valve. Really not that hard to do depending on the location under the trailer and the creativeness the factory used.


You have never worked on a Cable driven Dump Valve system. "hard" to do? Not if you have NEVER worked on one[emoticon] It can be very frustrating. Doug

schlep1967

Harrisburg, PA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/08/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 07/08/20 12:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

schlep1967 wrote:

I've never installed a new dump valve and I have never seen instructions for installing them. I have had to take mine apart. Most recently this week for repairs from a tire blow out that broke off the end of the drain. One thing I noticed is if you over tighten the four bolts that hold the valve together, it will be hard to open and close. If somebody did some work on yours the bolts may be too tight.
If nobody worked on it you might be due to replace the valve. Really not that hard to do depending on the location under the trailer and the creativeness the factory used.


You have never worked on a Cable driven Dump Valve system. "hard" to do? Not if you have NEVER worked on one[emoticon] It can be very frustrating. Doug

Read it again. I've never installed a new one. But I would guess the instructions that come with one would indicate how tight the bolts should be. I have removed and reinstalled two of them for other issues. And if you over-tighten the four bolts, you will have problems opening and closing the valve.

CarnationSailor

Carnation,WA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/21/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 01:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To dougrainer,

Thanks for the additional info. It has not gotten any worse since I bought the trailer 5 years ago, and it is not bad enough for me to tear into the coroplast liner. I'll wait for it to get worse - if it ever does.

schlep1967

Harrisburg, PA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/08/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 07/08/20 01:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CarnationSailor wrote:

To dougrainer,

Thanks for the additional info. It has not gotten any worse since I bought the trailer 5 years ago, and it is not bad enough for me to tear into the coroplast liner. I'll wait for it to get worse - if it ever does.

If it does start getting worse, replace it before it breaks. It's much easier to rinse out a tank to the point of actually wanting to open up the plumbing when the valve is working.
If it gets too tight you can pull the cable/rod out of the gate valve and then you have to deal with a full or partially full tank when you remove the bolts.

CarnationSailor

Carnation,WA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/21/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/08/20 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

schlep1967 wrote:

CarnationSailor wrote:

To dougrainer,

Thanks for the additional info. It has not gotten any worse since I bought the trailer 5 years ago, and it is not bad enough for me to tear into the coroplast liner. I'll wait for it to get worse - if it ever does.

If it does start getting worse, replace it before it breaks. It's much easier to rinse out a tank to the point of actually wanting to open up the plumbing when the valve is working.
If it gets too tight you can pull the cable/rod out of the gate valve and then you have to deal with a full or partially full tank when you remove the bolts.


"then you have to deal with a full or partially full tank"

Or just have someone else do it! [emoticon]

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Cable Maintenance for Dump valves
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.