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Leveling Jack issue

Tragikmagik72
Explorer
Explorer
Hey everyone!

I’ve searched around on here before making a post but couldn’t find exactly what I’m looking for.

I have a 2004 Newmar Class A, and I’m having an issue with one of my hydraulic leveling jacks not retracting properly. It had always been slow to retract compared to the others, but this year will not retract at all. The last time I used it, I had to loosen a solenoid/valve to relieve the hydraulic pressure and it came up just fine. This one solenoid was also very hot compared to the others too. So that’s leading me to believe that maybe it is bad and causing my issue?

It’s an HWH Corporation system. And I’ve tried looking it up but nothing I could find shows the valve or solenoid or whatever it actually is, or any part numbers for that piece so that I could order or look for a replacement. So here I am, hoping maybe someone has some insight or advice.

I’ll post a pic of the part I’m talking about. It looks like one has been replaced before. But there are no makings to help identify what I actually need to look for. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

As I type this I’m realizing that maybe I should swap two of these up and see if this piece causes a similar problem on a different jack..

Link to image https://ibb.co/pbbyZBY
12 REPLIES 12

spankan
Explorer
Explorer
I hope this helps somebody..I fixed my jacks with a clamp... https://youtu.be/Qu5f2Iu4NRo

H___E
Explorer
Explorer
I just changed one on our coach this week. Got the valve at Amazon for $320.00. It took less than an hour to change and did not loose but a few drops of fluid. It was shipped from Independence RV In Winter Garden Florida.
I called them and ordered a spare to have on hand.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
wa8yxm wrote:
Clearly you have identified the problem The valve. Either the coil is part shorted (Why it is so hot and My #1 Suspect) or the valve is bad.

how to test.
retract all jacks this one will stay down of course.
Now swap two (NOT the Dump valve but jack coils) and hit the retract button again. if the jack retracts restore the two coils to where they were and replace the bad one.


This is NOT how you test HWH. Ignore this post. Doug

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Taking a closer look at the picture
Those look like all in one
The coil is inside the housing
Not separate mounted around the valve body
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Clearly you have identified the problem The valve. Either the coil is part shorted (Why it is so hot and My #1 Suspect) or the valve is bad.

how to test.
retract all jacks this one will stay down of course.
Now swap two (NOT the Dump valve but jack coils) and hit the retract button again. if the jack retracts restore the two coils to where they were and replace the bad one.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Tragikmagik72 wrote:
So, looks like I have a HWH 325 Series system. That being said, the RAP0642 is exactly what I need. Just as Doug said. I’ll go ahead and look at ordering a new one. Does anyone know if there is a way to rebuild my bad one? Or is it just not worth it?


HWH can rebuild, but the RAP stands for Rebuilt. Doug

Tragikmagik72
Explorer
Explorer
So, looks like I have a HWH 325 Series system. That being said, the RAP0642 is exactly what I need. Just as Doug said. I’ll go ahead and look at ordering a new one. Does anyone know if there is a way to rebuild my bad one? Or is it just not worth it?

Tragikmagik72
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Doug. And I guess you could call me inexperienced when it comes to hydraulic systems. I just wasn’t sure any other way to pinpoint that part as being the problem. And I hate just throwing parts at stuff. But my lack of experience is also why I posted here first. I’m about to drive out and look for sure what the model of the whole system is and double check that the part number is correct but it sure looks about right.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
If the solenoid is HOT and the jack retracts OK when manually opened, you just replace the valve. NEVER SWAP VALVES. THAT DESTROYS THE VARIOUS o RINGS ON THE VALVE. You never need to swap valves to diag a HWH problem. Swapping is done by inexperianced DIY people. You need the RAP0642 replacement. Doug

http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr60200h_e_sol.html

PS, The reason that solenoid is HOT is because it has had 12 volt power longer than 10 minutes. It has power longer than 10 minutes because the system will not kill power to that solenoid until the offending jack has fully retracted and the red down light goes OFF.

Tragikmagik72
Explorer
Explorer
Of course I didn’t think to look on the control panel inside to see if there was a model number. I just took pics of all the part numbers for the components under the hood... looks like I need to take a trip back out and look.

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
If you know the modelThis will help

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
What model HWH? If you swap two you will need to get O-rings for both as they should be replaced it you remove the valve.