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Need 12v refer Info

Chinolbz
Explorer
Explorer
Looking for real world experience with Everchill, Furrion or other 12v only refrigerators. Amp draw, noise, ability to keep cold in the heat. Don't want the hassle of a residential unit. Chino
7 REPLIES 7

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
theoldwizard1 wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
The Modern 12 volt Only units fall into two categories one is a peltier cooler. These have no moving parts with the possible exception of a fan and a thermostat and can also be "Reveresed" to become a "hot box" instead of a cold box.
They have fairly high amp draw for the amount of cold you get.

Stay away from these ! While small and compact they really do not work very well and, as stated, can draw a lot of current.


Excellent advice and I meant to type that... The line I forgot is I call them a -30 box because about the best you can hope for is 30 degrees below ambient so if it's 90 in the RV (Yesterday it was) these may get it down to 60 (Way to hot) if it's 70 inside you hit 40 (Minimum level of cool) Some of the super small ones can be handy however. I had a friend (Now deceased) used one to carry her insulin in the car on trips A small one. holds like half a dozen 12.5 oz cans if that much.

But for food storage. Not good.
I did use one for HOT storage though.

I really like my Engel ultra high effiecy compressor unit.

At one time both Dometic and Norcold had full size fit in the opening RV-Size units with like technology.. If I had the funds I'd consider one of those as my next Cooling Unit Replacement. Very nice for a fridge that draws less than 5 amps door closed. (And you have to specify door closed for the light is a major part of the door open drawe).
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Housted wrote:
...

2. Runs on 12 volts and does not require propane.
3. Much better performance in really hot weather.

...
BTW the unit was cheaper than a replacement adsorbsion cooling unit.

I am surprised that RV manufacturers have not caught on to "all electric" RVs !

First, I think most nights camping are spent with at least electric hook up. A/C and a microwave are almost always a "must have" so adding an electric water heater and maybe a heat strip to A/C seem like a "no brainer".

#2 and #3 are big wins. Think of the cost saving when building an RV if you have no tanks or pipes to run. I'll bet that the cost of a couple of 6V golf cart batteries and a 1000W-2000W inverter/charger/transfer switch might actually be less !

And who doesn't want non-mushy ice cream at the end of the day.

Housted
Explorer III
Explorer III
Based on the above video, I installed one of the JC Refidgeration 12v compressor unit in my Norcold N-821.
Reasons...
1. keep the cabinetry and box the same
2. Runs on 12 volts and does not require propane.
3. Much better performance in really hot weather.
4. Relatively easy to install.

Biggest problem for me was getting the refer out of the trailer, fortuately my neighbors son was here and could help me. We leaned the hard way to remove the doors and all shelves first...DUH.:S

We used the refer on a trip to AZ where the tems were over 100 every day and it worked fine.

I measure the draw on my batteries constantly and the fridge uses 8.5 amps.

I must mention that I have 1100 watts of solar and 400 Ahrs of lithium batteries.
We are sold on the conversion. ๐Ÿ™‚

Housted

BTW the unit was cheeper than a replacement adsorbsion cooling unit.
2019 Forrest River Forrester 3051S 2014 Honda CRV toad.
1000 W Solar, converted to 50 amp
400 Amps of LiFePO4,3000 Watt Inverter, Refer converted with JC refrigeration unit, Sofa replaced with 2 swivel chairs, over cab bed converted to TV mount and storage

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
The Modern 12 volt Only units fall into two categories one is a peltier cooler. These have no moving parts with the possible exception of a fan and a thermostat and can also be "Reveresed" to become a "hot box" instead of a cold box.
They have fairly high amp draw for the amount of cold you get.

Stay away from these ! While small and compact they really do not work very well and, as stated, can draw a lot of current.

prichardson
Explorer
Explorer
Have used the compressor type for years in the marine application. Noise is similar to a residential refer. Power use on DC is typically 4 to 5 amps with a 50% duty cycle.

Roger10378
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check out the u-tube from "Mortons on the Move" They installed a 12DC compressor cooling unit in there fridge. It sounds like what you want.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yte1V3CkDrw&t=63s
2005 Cardinal 30TS
2007 Chevy 2500HD D/A

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The Modern 12 volt Only units fall into two categories one is a peltier cooler. These have no moving parts with the possible exception of a fan and a thermostat and can also be "Reveresed" to become a "hot box" instead of a cold box.
They have fairly high amp draw for the amount of cold you get.

The other is what I call a "Danfoss" type device. Danfoss is but one company making the compressors in these units. Very high efficiency compressor units. Suitable for residential or RV. Generally draw about 3-4 amps door closed. add 2-4 amps door open due to the light.

I haven an Engel chest fridge/freezer 15 years old and still keeping things inside in the single digits.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times