Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Dometic fridge woes.
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 > Dometic fridge woes.

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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 07/12/20 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What about the Baffle? You did not respond. Doug

btcruzer

Missouri

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Posted: 07/12/20 02:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug. Yes I remove the baffle each time I swabbed the flue. Looks good - no rust - in tact, no burnt or missing corners, . Had several RVs, this is the best looking one I've seen. Probably because it havsen't been really hot.


The Good Times are Coming !

btcruzer

Missouri

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Posted: 07/12/20 03:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

with the temps here in Missouri - I'm putting this problem on the back burner. We have a trip (different camper) coming up soon. When the weather cools, I'm planning to remove the fridge and systematically disassemble each piece of the LP plumbing and blow out in reverse direction of flow. Then I am totally out of ideas. The ROADTREK might be available for sale by September.

Thanks to all for suggestions and info.

trailrider

new plymouth, idaho

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Posted: 07/12/20 10:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would put in a new orifice. Cleaning it doesn't mean it is as good as new. Like carburetor jets, sometimes you can't get them clean.


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Tom_M

New Hope, MN

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Posted: 07/13/20 05:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It looks like you haven't checked the filter as dougrainer suggested. A few years ago a fellow camper was almost to the point of replacing his fridge but luckily he checked the propane line. It was full of oil.


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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 07/13/20 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tom_M wrote:

It looks like you haven't checked the filter as dougrainer suggested. A few years ago a fellow camper was almost to the point of replacing his fridge but luckily he checked the propane line. It was full of oil.


Bingo, I was going to mention this. Usually, when I had this type weird problem I would hook the Shop LP tank to the refer and bypass the RV LP system to see if it worked correctly. Have you actually verified the refer operates to temp on 120 volt? What were the lower temp? Below 50 degrees? Me thinks the Flame is at correct HEATING height. Because the refer is warm inside, you cannot get the Flame to go to bypass mode?. By getting the refer to temp on 120, then start on LP and watch the flame when you open the refer door to allow hot air inside. Once the Capillary tube on the fins starts to warm up, the Bypass flame will then get larger to show the tstat and LP system is doing its job. Last, when ON LP, how cold does the refer actually get? Doug

PS how large LP tank does the RV have and when was the last time it was either purged and filled or just filled?

ernie1

Sacramento,California,USA

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Posted: 07/13/20 05:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How does one access the filter to the thermostat? Just unscrew the gas line connection? I see a fitting on the gas line that is screwed into the thermostat and has red thread sealer on it.

btcruzer

Missouri

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Posted: 07/14/20 08:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tom M ..actually I did check the filter - it looked brand NEW - because it IS. I looked at before I installed the NEW t'stat. It is located in the inlet of the t'stat. I also looked at the filter in the removed t'stat... didn't look much different from the new. EARNIE1 ... the filter is just a small wad of what looks like cotton (maybe a little larger than a pencil eraser) pushed into the inlet of the t'stat. On this particular fridge the controls and most of the LP plumbing is located on top of the fridge and the fridge sits in a compartment that allows no access to them. The only things accessible from the outside vent is the primary shutoff valve and the burner tube ( along with the orifice, igniter, and thermocouple). This fridge has to be disconnected from the LP supply, unscrewed, then slid foreward into the RV in order to access the filter or most anything else.

btcruzer

Missouri

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Posted: 07/14/20 09:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doug--- yesterday and last night were cooler than it has been laterly... The fridge ran on A/C since 2 pm yesterday until now. the temp inside the fridge (not freezer) is 23 degrees. The temp selector is set to MAX that bypasses temperature controls and the fridge runs full tilt - always on. Temps inside the RV yesterday was average maybe 85 degrees This AM it is 73 so far.

on the LP side -- I should be able to get the fridge to lower the flame by setting the t'stat to OFF. That is supposed to keep the flame at a pilot light size. Then the MAX setting is supposed to keep the flame at full height full time bypassing any temp controls. Todays 23 degree temp was on A/C at MAX setting. I have observed the flame while the setting was on OFF and had someone then switch the setting to MAX ... no difference in the appearance of the flame.

I have read that once can hear the difference in the flame sizes. I cannot hear this flame at all. I can hear the flame in my other RV without removing the vent. I guess a smaller fridge might need a smaller flame.

I have read that extended use in the MAX setting can cause damage to the cooling unit by overheating it. If this has been damaged could the thing produce the 23 degrees I getting on electric? Or would it just taker longer and not be able to maintain the cold?

I guess that "I have read..." quite a bit. Guess I just have not yet read that little gem of info that I need.

* This post was edited 07/14/20 09:46am by btcruzer *

ernie1

Sacramento,California,USA

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Posted: 07/14/20 11:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

btcruzer: thanks for the info

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