Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Shimming camper to minimize side to side movement
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 > Shimming camper to minimize side to side movement

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silverbullet555

Boise

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Posted: 07/29/20 11:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I noticed on our last trip or two a fair amount of readjusting the turnbuckles was necessary. Wind and bumpy roads usually seem to cause it to shift enough to make one side's tiedowns loose and the other side really tight.

I'm thinking of using some 1/2" or 1" thick lumber to shim it between the wheel wells to keep it from moving side to side.

Good? Bad? Better ideas?


James
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Classic Crew Cab 4wd 6.5' bed
1995 Northland Grizzly 860 camper
2002 Cobalt 226

hedgehopper

Denver

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Posted: 07/30/20 12:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That has worked well for us. I made a frame to hold the shims in place.

BigfootBill

Central NY

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Posted: 07/30/20 04:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use 2 1x4's wrapped in cloth for this purpose. It makes it a less forgiving install when backing up to the TC but i find that they help me to align the truck by watching where they fall on the sides of the camper through the back window.


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JimK-NY

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Posted: 07/30/20 05:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When my camper is perfectly aligned with the truck, I have 1/4" clearance on the driver's side between the bump out for the shower and the rear opening. The clearance from the side of the camper to the wheel well matches the thickness of a 2x4. I load with the camper slightly off center. That gives me an extra inch or so of slack when loading. That is still a tight fit but better than trying to deal with a 1/4" of clearance. I then put a section of 2x4 on the left side and lower the camper while pushing in that direction. The 2x4 gives me perfect alignment. I could put another section of 2x4 on the passenger side but never had a reason.

I do not seem to ever see any shifting. Before you look for complicated solutions you might look for the obvious. I have a thick rubber horse mat on the bed of the truck on top of a rough sprayed on coating. No motion is ever going to occur between the sprayed on finish and the horse mat. Under the camper, I have double layers of 1x6 wood slats to raise the camper to the needed height so there is about 2" of clearance between the camper overhang and the running lights on the top of the truck. I have non slip stair tape under the slats. That is like a very coarse sandpaper and there is no slippage between the bottom of the camper and the horse mat.

Kayteg1

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Posted: 07/30/20 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My camper has wider floor-plan in the rear, where 1 side comes in touch with tailgate opening.
So I cut couple of hardwood boards with taper and screw to the side of truck opening, what not only holds the camper, but also guides it while loading.
Than on front I have 6" board on front of the bed with couple 4x4 cut at angle to guide the front wall.
Alaska trip, where I have seen nose of the camper moving up & down "by a foot" was good test for holds.





silverbullet555

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Posted: 07/30/20 08:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some good points. I think it might end up being a combination of solutions.

I have a sprayed in bed liner and no mat. Currently, the camper rides on a 2x4 platform made by the previous owner. I am only using it because I need the space to use the brophy mounts. Once I finally convert over to either happijac or torklift I will no longer need the riser for that purpose. Then I'll have to see if I need one to clear the cab on the truck.

Kayteg1

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Posted: 07/30/20 09:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Both of my campers had metal flashing at floor perimeter, with sticking screws.
That would rub spray-on bedliner if used with no mat.
Another thing I notice on my dually was the bed ribs ending about 3" before bed end. That, when you load long camper not only can bend the ribs, but makes for longer camper overhang, lowering the stabilization.
I cut to shape a strip of 3/8" plywood and put under the mat to make solid support for camper edge.

Grit dog

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Posted: 07/30/20 11:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

silverbullet555 wrote:

Some good points. I think it might end up being a combination of solutions.

I have a sprayed in bed liner and no mat. Currently, the camper rides on a 2x4 platform made by the previous owner. I am only using it because I need the space to use the brophy mounts. Once I finally convert over to either happijac or torklift I will no longer need the riser for that purpose. Then I'll have to see if I need one to clear the cab on the truck.


This is why it’s sliding around. But you could shim it tight. Problem is you gotta load it the same to whim it the same unless you have a bunch of say 1/2” plywood rips.


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

Bert the Welder

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Posted: 07/30/20 05:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do you guys using guides have an concern with the camper getting pushed one way or another buy the guides and putting pressure sideways on the legs? Or are you getting it so close that it's just a fraction of an inch?
Thanks!


"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.


noteven

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Posted: 07/30/20 05:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use a couple 2 x boards sawn at 45deg to take away the side to side gap between the wheel houses in the box. I want to top the angle with some "puck board" to make it harder and slipperyer than raw wood - the aluminium angle on the bottom of the camper can bite the wood if you don't be careful as you lower away.

I don't horse my Fastguns down too tight - I set them to spec with the water tank full and let the internal springs do their job.

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