How do I get a colder freezer?

[TURNKEY]

I have a Norcold 9163 fridge. When I set the fridge to have the temperature just above freezing the freezer will only drop to around 15 f. I recognize the unit only has one thermostat(thermistor) so you can't set the fridge and freezer independently.

I'm looking for ideas like increasing the insulation of the freezer or putting a curtain in the freezer so when you open the door all the cold doesn't 'fall out'.

Any suggestions??

[FULLTIMEWANABE]

To each their own, and we boondock extensively. We tried all sorts of things to get our NEVERCOLD to properly freeze our ice cream and it never worked. Best day was when it died after 11 years and we replaced it with a Residential one that we've had ever since and love, love, love.

[ajriding]

lol, sorry, I was replying to the guy who wanted a warmer fridge. seems his fridge was getting too cold, an uncommon problem.

[dougrainer]

ajriding wrote:
the fins take the cold from the cooling unit (same one the freezer uses?), so same effect. Insulate the fins and you get a warmer fridge compartment I would think.

Yes, this is correct. But, there is no reason to do that and I doubt this would result in colder Freezer temp. Yes, it uses the same cooling unit, but the design of the cooling unit splits the cold between the upper)freezer) and lower(refer). There is a BIG difference in the COLD of the cooling unit between those 2 sections. As to insulating the fins, that is why it is important to defrost a evaporator that has iced up on the fins. ICE is a insulator and will not transfer the cold to the lower section. Doug

[philh]

add fans inside the fridge

[ajriding]

the fins take the cold from the cooling unit (same one the freezer uses?), so same effect. Insulate the fins and you get a warmer fridge compartment I would think.

[dougrainer]

ajriding wrote:
Yes, so you have problems with the fridge as stated above.

Inside the fridge part you see the big aluminum fins. Just insulate those, not all, but start insulating a few. These are what takes the cold from the freezer and makes the fridge cool. If you insulate a few fins then there will be less transfer of heat (cold in this situation in laymans terms).
Maybe as easy as cutting some foam insulation and sticking it between the fins on a few. trial and error will get you to desired temps.
This does not fix the issue causing your problem, but is a work-a-round in a bind.

Sorry, not at all correct. The freezer Cooling unit coil and the lower section of the Cooling unit are separated. Those "big" aluminum fins are what removes the HEAT from the lower section, warm convection air rises up from the bottom back of the refer inside box and as it passes thru the FINS, they remove the heat, which results in COLD. The FINS are actually 10 degrees colder than the interior temp of the refer. So, if your refer is at 35 degrees the fin temp will be 25 degrees. Doug

[ajriding]

Yes, so you have problems with the fridge as stated above.

Inside the fridge part you see the big aluminum fins. Just insulate those, not all, but start insulating a few. These are what takes the cold from the freezer and makes the fridge cool. If you insulate a few fins then there will be less transfer of heat (cold in this situation in laymans terms).
Maybe as easy as cutting some foam insulation and sticking it between the fins on a few. trial and error will get you to desired temps.
This does not fix the issue causing your problem, but is a work-a-round in a bind.

[dougrainer]

TURNKEY wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I already have temperature controlled fans in the chimney and a battery operated fan in the fridge and freezer. I can get the fridge to be much colder but then it will freeze whatever I have in it.

Once again my question is how to get the freezer to be colder but NOT the fridge. I believe the solution will entail more insulation around the freezer compartment and possibly inside the freezer....just wanting your thoughts or suggestions.

The freezer will get 0 to 10 degrees F regardless of the refer tstat setting. If you are getting temps above 10 degrees F and the refer is at 33 to 35, then as I stated, you have a problem with either the Thermal Mastic or the upper cooling unit is not sealed to the box correctly. What Freezer temp do you want? Doug

[wopachop]

TURNKEY wrote:
I can get the fridge to be much colder but then it will freeze whatever I have in it.

Once again my question is how to get the freezer to be colder but NOT the fridge.

Wish i could trick my fridge into getting cold enough to freeze items. Then back it off a bit. What are you doing to make it that cold.

I would go back to those settings. Then install slim pieces of foam between some of the cooling fins in the fridge. That should result in colder freezer temps and the ability to keep adding foam strips until you reduce the effectiveness of the fridge fins enough to keep food from freezing.

[Naio]

I'm glad I was helpful!

Even without opening the door, having air space makes a big difference. I guess because the air circulates and warms up at the walls of the freezer.

My experiments have been mainly about how long I can go without power. A full freezer stays frozen for 3.5 days at reasonable exterior temperatures. But a half full freezer doesn't stay frozen for even 24 hours, even if I don't open it at all.


Conclusion: A half full freezer requires a constant input of power to keep it cold. And if the power input isn't enough, it's just not going to be cold.

With the low power of some freezers, it -would- take a long time to freeze a bunch of water. I would probably add one bottle per day, rather than adding them all at once, unless I didn't have any food in there to worry about :-).

[TURNKEY]

Naio That idea bears merit. It will take energy to freeze the water but once frozen it will help to keep the freezer colder (less air to spill out when door is opened) Thanks!

OR use empty bottles and bags, fills space, doesn't put warm water into fridge.

Also a 6 sided box would insulate the freezer compartment FROM the cooling plate at the rear of the freezer. A 5 sided box would be better. I'm looking at improving the insulation around my freezer from the outside.

[Naio]

Working with your existing freezer, I would be tempted to build a styrofoam box, 6 sides, that fits inside the freezer, for extra insulation.

But I probably should ask first, is your freezer packed as full as possible? Any bit of airspace will interfere with its efficiency. I pack frozen water bottles or ziploc bags of water in, if I have empty space.

I find it's important to fill the freezer all the way to its ceiling, and not have air space on top of my food. Depending on the mechanism of cooling, sometimes a little pathway for air flow, but other than that, nothing!

[Naio]

The one I linked to is 67 Watts. But probably 1/4 the price :-).

120v fridges and freezers have a huge inrush when they first start their cycle. I can run one on a 1500 watt Harbor Freight inverter. Sometimes I can run two, if the inverter is having a good day.

[wa8yxm]

Naio wrote:
Another option is to get a separate freezer. If you have access to 120 volt power, I highly recommend this one. It will keep things frozen for 3.5 days without power, if it is full.

And of course there are 12 volt options, but they are more expensive :-).

Mine is an ENGEL.. Bit pricy but runs on my choice of 12vdc or 120VAC (has built in inverter/converter hardware)

Draws a great whomping THIRTY SIX watts running.
(For comparison a dual 1141 light bulb fixture is 38 watts)