door lock won't open

[voodoo101]

Went by my RV to check it out and cannot get the door lock to open. One of the paddle style with two keys: one for the deadbolt and another for the handle. Deadbolt won't budge and it was very hard to remove the key. (Wondering if someone tried to jimmy it.) It worked smoothly until it didn't. Suspect I will need to have it drilled and install another one. If I can find a compatible for a 2001 Sunnybrook Fiver. There is a Bauer on Amazon that looks the same.

Has anyone drilled one of these out and replaced it? How can one move the deadbolt after drilling? Or must I spring for a locksmith. Thanks.

[wa8yxm]

Are you sure you used the right key?

Any way you can sneak in... I've managed to get a window open that was not latched enough to get the emergency exit unlocked and then used it as an emergency entrance with the aid of a step ladder.

NOTE: not all emergency exit windows can be relocked. Mine can .

And the striker bolt in my tri-mark is Genuine steel
Tri-Mark did NOT make it however.. I had it "Smithed"

[mchero]

Thanks for the update!

[voodoo101]

Gave up fooling with it and drilled it out this morning. Easy and took just a few minutes. Went in above the keyhole to get the tumblers, but no luck. Then just went through the keyhole with a 1/4 inch and that did it. Picked up a Bauer 013-535 Trailer lock at Camping World and it was a perfect fit. $41.79 plus at CW. Cheaper online but needed it now. In hind sight, the original metal back plate was sturdy metal vs the composite of the new one. I kept the old one and will probably replace it some day when we are not triple digits heat. The drama is ended. Bill

[CFerguson]

There are some lubes that dont attract dust/debris when dry. They are typically non oil based firearms CLP lubes. Eezox comes to mind.
But really, if youre this far in the process, you should probably replace the entire thing after you get it open. I sure wouldnt trust it again.

[mchero]

chuckbear wrote:
Ours is a Trimark and the deadbolt key no longer works in the lock. Fortunately, we were able to finally unlock it and get in but we no longer use it. Just the door latch lock. These Trimark door handle/locks are junk and fail often leaving owners locked out of the rig. We are looking for alternatives to Trimark. This is our third lock that has failed. The deadbolt works using the inside locking lever so the problem is the cylinder which can't be replaced. Chuck

Let us know when you find a drop-in replacement for the Trimark junk.

[30sweeds]

Ed_Gee wrote:
The Trimark door lock failed on our Class C.....could not open door. Ultimately found out that Trimark T-507 lock assemblies had a defect.....the latch bolt was made out of pot metal.....many broke over the years. The new ones now are made of steel.

The Trimark newest version has a steel bolt.Don't buy one unless they guaranty that the bolt is steel.It's not over yet,though.The guide pins are slightly bigger than the slots on the old guide....which is virtually impossible to remove from the door jamb.I used a Dremel and a carbide burr to enlarge the slots slightly and it works perfectly.I don't think any other lock will fit in the Trimark hole without looking like a cobbled up mess.

[dieseltruckdriv]

If you suspect it to be gummed up, spray WD-40 inside the lock. It is not a good lubricant, but it is a very good cleaner.

[BobsYourUncle]

naturist wrote:
Ack, no! Oil in a lock cylinder works temporarily but is a long term kiss of death. It attracts and traps dust which kills the lock in short order.

Locks should only ever be lubed with dry graphite.

Totally true on a properly functioning lock with no issues. I agree 100%

However, on a lock that will not open, and the intent is to get it to open one last time so it can be removed for replacement without destroying it, I would opt for thin penetrating oil to try to free it up. In this instance, thin oil will be a better choice.

If the OP can just get it to open, he won't have to drill it out and make a mess to remove the non functioning lock.

And yes, to all others, haul out the graphite! 🙂

[voodoo101]

Thanks to everyone who replied. Yes, I have graphite lock lube and used it. I will try again in the morning and will also shoot some oil if graphite doesn't work. I know oil is a temporary fix but that would let me remove it non-destructively and put in a new unit.

Anything I do here in Scottsdale has to be in the very early morning. Into the teens all this week, again. I envy all of you in cool climes. Bill

[chuckbear]

Ed_Gee wrote:
The Trimark door lock failed on our Class C.....could not open door. Ultimately found out that Trimark T-507 lock assemblies had a defect.....the latch bolt was made out of pot metal.....many broke over the years. The new ones now are made of steel.

This is not the same issue as a lock cylinder failing, which many have done. Chuck

[Ed_Gee]

The Trimark door lock failed on our Class C.....could not open door. Ultimately found out that Trimark T-507 lock assemblies had a defect.....the latch bolt was made out of pot metal.....many broke over the years. The new ones now are made of steel.

[chuckbear]

Ours is a Trimark and the deadbolt key no longer works in the lock. Fortunately, we were able to finally unlock it and get in but we no longer use it. Just the door latch lock. These Trimark door handle/locks are junk and fail often leaving owners locked out of the rig. We are looking for alternatives to Trimark. This is our third lock that has failed. The deadbolt works using the inside locking lever so the problem is the cylinder which can't be replaced. Chuck

[Dusty_R]

We bought a new,class C, Itasca in 2017 and that winter the door latch broke. Got a new one under warranty, It also broke. Went to a small place that sold RV parts, and got a new one but different make, and it's still working fine.

[naturist]

Ack, no! Oil in a lock cylinder works temporarily but is a long term kiss of death. It attracts and traps dust which kills the lock in short order.

Locks should only ever be lubed with dry graphite. They make tiny lifetime supply tubes of it for the express purpose of lubing locks. They cost $2 or so, are mostly air, and use the air to blow a small amount of graphite dust into the lock. Flick the tube a few times with your finger, blow a couple squeezes into the key slot, insert key and work it around. It should free up easily.

Do be aware that RV door locks of that vintage and style suffered a manufacturing flaw, or at least some of them did. The defective ones were supposed to have the key inserted and withdrawn ONLY with the blade vertical, but the defective ones could have the key withdrawn with the blade horizontal, and when that was done, it could freeze up the lock permanently. Those had to be drilled out when frozen. Hopefully yours isn’t one of the defectives and the graphite lube does the trick.