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Roof Care and Maintenance suggestions. SEE Finally Update NEED HELP!

Chuck___
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2010 DRV and the roof looks like it is peeling off in some areas. This is a thin layer the thickness of paper or less. Possibly the previous owner put a coating on the roof??? Noticed the peeling in the front corners and some in the far back roof area. Also the roof looks like it has small spots of black mold on top of the roof. Been cleaning the roof with DAWN each year and using a product called Best Rubber Roof cleaner & protectant with UV blocker. I did try using a mixture of bleach and water to clean and kill mold with no luck. Just kind of looks ugly having the black spots on the roof. I called the manufacture of the trailer back in 2017 for maintenance suggestions and was of really no big help other than just wash the roof with with DAWN. I store the trailer outside year around with a cover on it.



Any suggestions? What should I do?

Update as of Oct 6,2020
Called Mobile Suit and asked them about my roof. Mobile Suit RV. DRV recommend calling the roof manufacturer Dicor at 574-264-2699. They might have a higher grade of products for roofs and other RV maintenance products than Henry's. . Wanting for a response.

Just got the phone with an RV retailer/repair shop in Salem, Oregon that has been here for 30 plus years. They said if you maintain a RV roof you should not have to do anything but clean it each year. Said this;if a roof starts to peel, the entire roof needs the peeling remove and completely re-coated. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Also, once this is done, you will have to re-coat the roof about ever 5 to 6 years.

Called an Authorized Mobile Suit Dealer in Oregon today also and they said that they never re-coat any RV roofs and do not recommend it. When the roof leaks of goes bad they replace it. Don't seem like their into doing any real roof repair. Maybe just a very small roof repairs if any and they said to use Dicor product only.

You would think there is straight forward information on RV roof maintenance from the professionals. All I got so far is no homeowner should ever re-coat a RV roof. But Wait! Yes sir you can bring your RV into a dealer and spend thousand to have a new roof put on. Sound like a run around to me!

Finally 10-7-20 : Got in touch with the factory rep from Dicor Products. He told me that within the last couple of weeks several people have call in about questions using Henry's products. His company has a policy about bad mouthing other companies. But; He said that Dicor Roofing System is a two stage process. First step process helps the coating to attach to the final/ second process coating. Rep said Dicor is good for approximately 6 years, Just got off the phone with the Henry's Rep. He said their roofing product is good for approximately 15 to 20 years plus.

So is Henry's Roof coating better of is Dicor Roof Coating?

At this time I do not know the best way to go. Need all the help I can get.




Chuck
28 REPLIES 28

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
Chuck, your black blotches look totally different from what my roofs did. Mine got really fine checks in it and the pressure washing blew off what looked like white sand. Then I could see a little of the black layer under the top white layer but it sure wasn't anything like yours. My ex was a microbiologist, so... I would try a bleach solution on yours just to see if it's mildew or mold. If it is, I would want to kill it before recoating. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

NJRVer
Explorer
Explorer
Hoerschel wrote:
NJRVer said: "Bought a 5 gal bucket at Depot and I only used 1/2 of that for two coats on a 25' roof. It seems really thick when you go to roll it. You would think it isn't going to go far at all, but it really spreads. Looks like I will coat the roof of my cargo trailer now since I have the extra."

NJRVer: An FYI for your consideration... According to Henry's, the appropriate rate of coverage is 1.5 gallons per 100 square feet. You sought to cover 250 sq ft (25' long by 10' wide). If you had 2.5 gallons left from a 5 gallon pail, your application may have been too conservative; i.e., it should have required at least 3.75 gallons +/- to meet their specifications for adequate coverage and protection. You can still add another coat, should you wish, to know you're within spec. Given the elapsed time you just need to wash your roof before hand. In my case, I have a 30' unit and marked the roof with tape in 3 - 100 sq ft sections to ensure I rolled it on evenly. One coat sufficed for me.


That is based on straight out total square footage.
You have to add up the square footage of all the areas of the roof that do not get coated:
Roof vents, plumbing vents, fan vents, skylights, refrigerator vents, rooftop A/C units, TV and radio Antenna.
Believe me, I put two coats on and the coating on the roof now is by no means "thin".
Also, what rv roof is 10' wide?

Hoerschel
Explorer
Explorer
NJRVer said: "Bought a 5 gal bucket at Depot and I only used 1/2 of that for two coats on a 25' roof. It seems really thick when you go to roll it. You would think it isn't going to go far at all, but it really spreads. Looks like I will coat the roof of my cargo trailer now since I have the extra."

NJRVer: An FYI for your consideration... According to Henry's, the appropriate rate of coverage is 1.5 gallons per 100 square feet. You sought to cover 250 sq ft (25' long by 10' wide). If you had 2.5 gallons left from a 5 gallon pail, your application may have been too conservative; i.e., it should have required at least 3.75 gallons +/- to meet their specifications for adequate coverage and protection. You can still add another coat, should you wish, to know you're within spec. Given the elapsed time you just need to wash your roof before hand. In my case, I have a 30' unit and marked the roof with tape in 3 - 100 sq ft sections to ensure I rolled it on evenly. One coat sufficed for me.

Hoerschel
Explorer
Explorer
I think you just answered your own question.

Chuck___
Explorer
Explorer
Finally : Got in touch with the factory rep from Dicor Products. He told me that within the last couple of weeks several people have call in about questions using Henry's products. His company has a policy about bad mouthing other c companies. But; He said that Dicor Roofing System is a two stage process. First step process helps the coating to attach to the final/ second process coating. Rep said Dicor is good for approximately 6 years, Just got off the phone with the Henry's Rep. He said their roofing produce is good for approximately 15 to 20 years plus.

So is Henry's Roof coating better of is Dicor Roof Coating?
Chuck

NJRVer
Explorer
Explorer
Chuck .. wrote:
First I call Mobile Suit factory and ask once again about roof maintenance. DRV recommend calling Dicor the roof manufacture. Wanting for a response.

Just got the phone with an RV retailer/repair shop in Salem, Oregon that has been here for 30 plus years. They said if you maintain a RV roof you should not have to do anything but clean it each year. Said this;if a roof starts to peel, the hole roof needs the peeling remove and completely re-coated. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Also, once this is done, you will have to re-coat the roof about ever 5 to 6 years.

At this time I do not know the best way to go. Need all the help I can get.



How old is your roof?
How long do you plan on keeping it?

Chuck___
Explorer
Explorer
First I call Mobile Suit factory and ask once again about roof maintenance. DRV recommend calling Dicor the roof manufacture. Wanting for a response.

Just got off the phone with an RV retailer/repair shop in Salem, Oregon that has been here for 30 plus years. They said if you maintain a RV roof you should not have to do anything but clean it each year. Said this;if a roof starts to peel, the hole roof needs the peeling remove and completely re-coated. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Also, once this is done, you will have to re-coat the roof about ever 5 to 6 years.

At this time I do not know the best way to go. Need all the help I can get.
Chuck

NJRVer
Explorer
Explorer
Hoerschel wrote:
I would concur with using the Henry's 887 TropiCool 100% silicone after sealing cracks and seams as needed with the Henry's 884 caulk-type 100% silicone tube sealant. After extensive conversations with Henry's customer service reps, I was informed that it is not normally necessary to remove old sealant or dicor. After thorough cleaning using TSP or Simple Green (will NOT leave residue like Dawn dish washing soap), apply the Henry 884 over cracks and gaps, let cure per label directions, and top-off with the thick liquid 887. I just did mine and very happy with results. Lots of work, but saved lots of money, too.



I just finished my TT roof this weekend.
I cleaned out all the old Dicor where my roof gutters run and then re-sealed that with the 884 caulk.

I used TSP and a scrub brush on my hands and knees to clean the roof ahead of time. Came out very clean when done. Then first coat of Henry 887 right over the old Dicor that was around all the roof flashings for the vents, A/C, refrig vent.

I am really impressed with the Henry. Did a great job of covering and sealing everything. I did two coats. Nothing is getting past that stuff.
One thing I learned on the first coat: I went about it like you would paint a room. Did all my brush "cutting in" first them went to roll and by then the brush work was starting to dry a little. When it got hit with the roller it kind of skinned where the brush work was done.

Second coat I "cut in" with the brush in stages and then immediately rolled the area. Did the roof in sections that way and no problem.

Bought a 5 gal bucket at Depot and I only used 1/2 of that for two coats on a 25' roof. It seems really thick when you go to roll it. You would think it isn't going to go far at all, but it really spreads. Looks like I will coat the roof of my cargo trailer now since I have the extra.

The stuff is weird. I noticed immediately that morning dew does not dry off of the roof as soon as the sun hits it like the un coated roof and it literally does feel "cool" to the touch vs an uncoated roof.
I ordered a new cap for my refrigerator roof vent since the old one looks like it is about to dry rot. Really looks bad against that bright white roof now. Of course "back order". I will take a picture after I put the new roof vent on when I get it.

Hoerschel
Explorer
Explorer
I would concur with using the Henry's 887 TropiCool 100% silicone after sealing cracks and seams as needed with the Henry's 884 caulk-type 100% silicone tube sealant. After extensive conversations with Henry's customer service reps, I was informed that it is not normally necessary to remove old sealant or dicor. After thorough cleaning using TSP or Simple Green (will NOT leave residue like Dawn dish washing soap), apply the Henry 884 over cracks and gaps, let cure per label directions, and top-off with the thick liquid 887. I just did mine and very happy with results. Lots of work, but saved lots of money, too.

edatlanta
Explorer
Explorer
pcm1959 wrote:
Wow Chuck. You have one of the few shorter, quality trailers. Probably a keeper. DRV doesn't make anything that short any longer. Anyway, prior to getting my 2014 fiver roof done with RV Flex Armor, all I ever did to any of of my former RVs was Wet & Forget. Spray it on and leave it alone. No scrubbing. I'm done with any roof maintenance whatsoever now, however. Certainly a consideration on your rig.


If the rig is worth keeping, RV Flex Armor is the answer. I had mine done 5 years ago. Now all I do it forget about roof/caulking maintenance.
Ed
KM4STL

2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010

Ron_Nielson
Explorer
Explorer
How many gallons of Henrys 887 to properly do a 30'(Arctic fox) 5th wheel?

NJRVer
Explorer
Explorer
HD had it for $239 for 5gal.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks, it IS a lot of work but SOOO rewarding and it's better than new! I've talked to them and I got the same thing... 287, 587 aren't recommended for rvs but 887 is. Actually a roofing supplier on west Buckeye Rd. in Phx recommended the 287 when I did my previous 5er about 13 years ago. I know the cheaper ones work fine but like I said... after seeing how much reflectivity helps, I'd happily get the all silicone 887 for whatever extra $$. 5 gals will do two rvs so see if you can find a partner to split it. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

Thermoguy
Explorer II
Explorer II
C Schomer wrote:
I've done two of my rv roofs with Henry. Previous fiver with 287 and it held up great even in the Phx area for 5 yrs before I sold it. Best things... It stayed very white, had texture-not so slippery, and NO more streaks on the sides.
I did my current fiver last year with 587. It's more reflective than 287 and I can tell the difference, big time! We've camped in hot areas this year, set the t stat on 77 and the one 15k AC cools to set point very easily and it cycles nicely. I also sealed the AC return plenum and wrapped it with FG last year but I think the Henry 587 made the most improvement.
I pressure washed the loose stuff off the rubber, hand scrubbed with scotch brite pad/tsp solution for a great prep for the coating w/o needing any primer. Then fixed all caulk with dicor NON leveling and seams with eterna bond and then two heavy coats of 587. The Henry 887 is all silicone and even more reflective so it's probably worth the extra bucks. Craig

I'll take a recoated roof over the original chalky rubber any day, any time!


You do good work - wish I had a nice, clean dry place to store my trailers.