Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: House/chassis battery issue
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > House/chassis battery issue

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 08/18/20 07:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On solar no converter, it would be intermittent, but that would be ok as long as you got some sunshine now and again while in storage.

I also have a connector I rigged up using two 12v plugs so I plug one into the TV set's socket (on house) and the other into the dash cig lighter socket (on engine). Had to do some meter work to get their polarities right on the joining wires between plugs since they don't mark them pos and neg.


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

ajriding

st clair

Senior Member

Joined: 12/28/2004

View Profile



Posted: 08/18/20 10:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not bother with trying to connect the chassis batt to the house batt for this.
I assume this is a motorhome?
There should be an over-ride button so you can self-jump start by connecting the house battery to chassis battery when starting so the starter motor has power from both, but maybe not.
I assume you are storing the motorhome for long periods is why you need to charge the chassis batt?
The easiest way is to put a 5 or 10 watt solar charger on the dash and plug into a DC outlet. You need the outlet that is connected to the battery (has a battery icon) not the one connected to the ignition (has no power when key is off).
If the windshield faces the sun at anytime then this will work.
i had one on a E350, I think it was only 5 watts, and it did the job. It actually put in all 18 volts, but never was a problem for 10 years because 5 watts is so little, but one that puts out 13.x is preferred.
or, as others have said, if you are plugged in anyway, then just put a small trickle charger on it, you can plug into the DC outlet also, so no need to pop the hood.

time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/18/20 12:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

+1 for Trik-L-Start. Solar on my trailer has kept my truck battery charged for years now.
No issues, no downside.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

Senior Member

Joined: 08/03/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/18/20 12:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ramsaymike wrote:

I have a 2007 Coachmen Concord DS275 and discovered that the only way to charge the chassis batteries is by the alternator. Shore power charges house batteries only. This is a real issue for me as the engine cracking speed is critical in starting the 6L Ford diesel. I also have a solar system but it too is house only. I would like to be able to use the solar charging as needed to keep the chassis batteries fully charged. The battery interconnect solenoid would seem to be what I need to use but when I activate it (apply 12v) the headlights turn on which greatly reduces the charging efficiency. Any ideas appreciated.


IMO, what you are experiencing is completely normal and it is how most Class A/B/C gas MH's are wired from the factory. The chassis manufacturer (Ford/Chevrolet/Mercedes/etc.) designs/builds the chassis including the charging system which NORMALLY charges the engine (chassis) battery. The coach battery(s) are charged by the MH builders system. (It is often interlocked to the chassis batteries when the engine is running) For my Class A gasser, the easiest way to charge the chassis battery is to use a separate automotive type 12 volt charger (I use a 10 amp charger) which is plugged into a 120 volt outlet inside the MH. You must run the generator or be plugged into shore power to do this. IMO this is the easiest/safest/cheapest way to charge the chassis battery without causing other issues. You can manually hold down the house/chassis battery interconnect switch, but that is NOT what it is designed to do. IMO, charging deep cycle and automotive batteries together with the same charger is not a good idea and can result in failing to get all the batteries fully charged or cause some to be overcharged. The house/chassis batteries are often of different age/chemistry/voltage and don't like co-operating with each other when charging.

You could also use a separate charger connected to a 12/120 volt inverter which is powered by your solar system.

Chum lee

ramsaymike

Bobcaygeon ON

Full Member

Joined: 09/27/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/18/20 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The problem I am dealing concerns the cracking speed of the motor. This is a 6L Ford diesel and it needs to developed sufficient pressure before it lets the engine start. THe faster the crank speed the faster the start. Even using the battery interconnect button does not help much. Of course, it can be fixed but as a work around it seems that having a fully charged battery does make a difference. There could well be a problem with some sort of unknown current draw - the battery was at 11.7V after 10 days or so. This 2007 unit is new to me. Also I should add that 120ac is not available where it is stored. It has 340 watts of solar.


2014 Cedar Creek Cottage CRS
2007 Coachmen Concord M275 (6.0 diesel)

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

Senior Member

Joined: 08/03/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/18/20 09:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In this format, there is nothing more I can do/say to help you.

Chum lee

time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/18/20 09:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

11.7 volts resting is considered dead. That low in 10 days has an unusually high parasite drain or the battery is shot. Not sure what size you need but for superior "cracking" power consider an AGM such as Odyssey.

ramsaymike

Bobcaygeon ON

Full Member

Joined: 09/27/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/19/20 03:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Batteries are new. I will continue to monitor to see if there is something going on with a unknown current draw. (several modifications have been made by previous owners - alarm/remote start/... - so it is difficult to know exactly what is going on)

The use of a separate battery charger would require the inverter and seem more complex than just using the Trik-L-Start. It appears to have all the smarts to effectively replace the charger with no user intervention and would be an excellent long term solution. Maybe I'm missing something.
Thanks to all for the discussion.

MEXICOWANDERER

las peƱas, michoacan, mexico

Senior Member

Joined: 06/01/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/19/20 04:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Group 65 batteries were developed for this purpose. A pair of 65's will render almost 2,000 CCA.

Make CERTAIN your engine has a GEAR REDUCTIOMN ND starter and not a 20 MT Delco straight drive starter. Delco GLOW PLUGS are a world apart in durability and double check the cold timer for accuracy.

ajriding

st clair

Senior Member

Joined: 12/28/2004

View Profile



Posted: 08/19/20 08:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you have bigger problems if the batts are dead in 10 days. 10 days you should not notice any difference.

For a diesel you do have two "cracking" batteries, right? The compression of the pistons is higher than on a gas, but newer diesels maybe have a work-a-round idk. Mine was from 20 yrs ago.

If batt is dead then you have a voltage draw somewhere. Have fun finding it.

Using the jump start method, connecting the house batts will give more power, but because the house batteries might be far from the starter motor you will not necessarily be getting all the boost from them as if they were directly connected, close and with heavy gauge wire, and will prob never work for a diesel with a dead battery.

You say a trickle charger is too much problem? Sell the diesel and get a gas truck. A trickle charger plugged in is as easy as getting a drink from a water fountain. If this is too much trouble then nobody here can help you, and you will never be able to help yourself. sorry.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > House/chassis battery issue
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.