Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Front Frame Mount Tie Downs Not Working!
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 > Front Frame Mount Tie Downs Not Working!

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Buzzcut1

Norcal

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Posted: 09/01/20 10:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Never had a problem with either the original Steel Tiedowns or the newer Aluminum Talons. My buddy has my old SRW with the Steel tie downs and they are ten years old and going strong. My Talons are on my DRW and are 5 years old. I have horse stall mats in the bed and Fast guns. My 1055 weighs 4600 pounds. It moves around a tiny bit on really bad bumps at speed but nothing has ever broken.


2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 08 Lance 1055, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags


Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 09/01/20 11:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

From given description so far, I conclude that OP ties are mounted pretty vertical and that is not good.
I've seen setups like that and beside tie-downs the owners had nylon belt holding the camper on the bed.
Again, without picture we can crystal ball the issue forever.


Huh? Engrish prease!
OP look at my pic in the tow a boat thread. Being vertical is not a problem or The problem either. Lots of years miles and bumps. No issues.


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 09/02/20 05:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My front tiedowns are pretty much vertical as well, because I moved the tie down point on the camper to the front jacks. I didn’t like the deflection I was seeing around the factory tie down points. You can see them in this picture, about 12” behind the front jack.

[image]

The jack mount is a much stronger tie down point, and there has been no deflection. The tie down on the driver side also doesn’t block the fuel door anymore, so that’s a good thing, too. But, despite sitting on a rubber mat the camper tended to slide backwards a few inches while on a trip and I’d have to move it back to the front every 3-4 days. I do take mine off road regularly. Just unpaved forest roads, but some of them can get pretty rough.

After puzzling over that issue for a while, I came up with a way to stop the movement of the camper in the bed. On the bottom of the camper, I put a 1x4 along each side of the tub to tighten it up between the wheel wells. Then I ran six treated deck boards across the bottom of the tub at evenly spaced intervals. The first board is new because I had just replaced it. The original one developed a big split.

[image]

Then, I made a Camper Hauler Stiction Device (CHSD, or just “frammus”) that sits under the camper, with some tabs that extend into the four 5th-wheel hitch attachment points. The two boards on the CHSD are carefully placed so that they allow the 3rd and 4th boards on the bottom of the camper to land just in front of them, and prevent rearward movement. The camper no longer moves front/back or sideways.

[image]

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* This post was edited 09/02/20 02:45pm by NRALIFR *


2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450


HadEnough

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Posted: 09/02/20 06:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wow NRALIFR, that’s a great improvement!!

This is the kind of thing I’m looking to do, but of course more specific to my problem which is the frame mounts breaking.

The rear Torklift frame mount is a piece of square tube steel across the entire width of the truck. It has worked exceedingly well, never had any issues, and can also tow a trailer at the same time it’s holding the TC firmly in place on the rubber mat.

I’m thinking I’d like to make a similar one for the front tie downs. Just run a square tube across the whole width. It has to be a few inches lower than the truck frame to clear the fuel tank, exhaust and possibly drive shaft, which protrude down below frame height.

I figure some square U-bolts with spacers can hold it in place.

For now, while on the road, I’m thinking I’ll just build an H shaped 2x4 brace to lay in the truck bed as a spacer to keep the TC from moving to the passenger side, which is what it wants to do. When I get in to a place I can do the real work, in October, I’ll make the permanent fix.

NRALIFR

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Posted: 09/02/20 07:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like you’re wanting to make what used to be called a belly-bar. I think Brophy and Hijacker made those. That style will work, but I’m wondering if your Torklift tiedowns might not break if the camper didn’t move?

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HadEnough

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Posted: 09/02/20 07:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NRALIFR wrote:

Sounds like you’re wanting to make what used to be called a belly-bar. I think Brophy and Hijacker made those. That style will work, but I’m wondering if your Torklift tiedowns might not break if the camper didn’t move?

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The camper only moves BECAUSE the frame mounts break.

It doesn’t move until the frame mounts fall apart leaving it floating.

I took some measurements. The back of the camper hasn’t really moved. The front has moved 11 inches off center to the passenger side.

It’s only the broken (and always breaking) front frame mounts that are the problem.

So the camper is diagonal in the bed after driving around with the front mounts broken.

HadEnough

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Posted: 09/02/20 08:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So what always breaks is the top of the triangle here in the pic. Where the support bar meets the upper mounting plate. The very top of this pic. In my old set the welds gave out between the support bar and the main structural member. On the new set, I didn’t really get a great look yet due to rain, but the same thing is loose.

Pic of Mount

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/bmz_cache/0/0b3b24b9793a64acf4fc31cfa9393af2.image.256x200.jpg


This means the end of the mounts are free to lift up vertically toward the tc/sky. They impact the body of the truck and leave dents.

Kayteg1

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Posted: 09/02/20 08:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HadEnough wrote:

the welds gave out between the support bar and the main structural member..


That sounds like solid warranty claim.
Good welds should be strongest point of the brackets.





AnEv942

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Posted: 09/02/20 09:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

By description failure point?
[image]
"So what always breaks is the top of the triangle here in the pic. Where the support bar meets the upper mounting plate. The very top of this pic. In my old set the welds gave out between the support bar and the main structural member."
I'm having a hard time understanding how camper (without ripping its mounts) is applying enough force? it would almost seem that downward force, possibly side to side, would need to be applied for that upper weld to fail. Have you contacted Torklift?

NRALIFR-Curious, though doesn't look like with new upper tie off point would give enough angle (and you've solved your problem) why is the lower mount not to the hole in end of insert plate?
[image]


01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
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HadEnough

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Posted: 09/02/20 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AnEv942 wrote:

By description failure point?
[image]
"So what always breaks is the top of the triangle here in the pic. Where the support bar meets the upper mounting plate. The very top of this pic. In my old set the welds gave out between the support bar and the main structural member."
I'm having a hard time understanding how camper (without ripping its mounts) is applying enough force? it would almost seem that downward force, possibly side to side, would need to be applied for that upper weld to fail. Have you contacted Torklift?

NRALIFR-Curious, though doesn't look like with new upper tie off point would give enough angle (and you've solved your problem) why is the lower mount not to the hole in end of insert plate?
[image]


Yes, that’s the failure point. The support for the cantilever.

The Arctic Fox is a well built camper. The mounts are big, integral pieces of metal. They are stronger then the frame mounts. Obviously, since the frame mounts are breaking.

You’re also picturing the forces all wrong. UPWARD force is what’s breaking them, not downward. They aren’t a good design, really.

Probably not contacting Torklift. Multiple sets have broken at $800 a pop and I don’t want to deal with the hassle anymore, so I’m going to make a better mount.

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