valhalla360

No paticular place.

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If you do a hitch on the rear, make sure it's attached to something solid. Not the typical paper thin rear bumper you find on most trailers.
Also, you might consider something like a pintal hitch as you are going to have a fairly large negative hitch weight (probably in excess of 1000lb on a 7000lb trailer). I wouldn't want to be pushing from the rear and have it pop off a ball.
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bgum

South Louisiana

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Did you say that a motorized trailer dolly rolling on plywood can't put it in place.
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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Motorized dolly? $1500-2000 to move a trailer basically once? Lol
Stop overthinking it. Unless it's up a hill, run the trailer jack on plywood and have a couple helpers push it into place, or use a neighbors 4 wheeler (same guy that would help push for a cold beer or 2).
I can push a 5-7klb vehicle or trailer on flat pavement by myself. Surely a few people can push it into it's final resting place.
"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.
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bpounds

Sophmore Brain...

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valhalla360 wrote: If you do a hitch on the rear, make sure it's attached to something solid. Not the typical paper thin rear bumper you find on most trailers.
Also, you might consider something like a pintal hitch as you are going to have a fairly large negative hitch weight (probably in excess of 1000lb on a 7000lb trailer). I wouldn't want to be pushing from the rear and have it pop off a ball.
There is little concern about the bumper thickness, since this is just a device for short moves in his yard. And there won't be any negative or positive hitch weight, since a tow bar is hinged at the trailer attachment points. Weight will still be on the front trailer jack as usual. The tow bar acts as a steering and pushing device, not much else.
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valhalla360

No paticular place.

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bpounds wrote: valhalla360 wrote: If you do a hitch on the rear, make sure it's attached to something solid. Not the typical paper thin rear bumper you find on most trailers.
Also, you might consider something like a pintal hitch as you are going to have a fairly large negative hitch weight (probably in excess of 1000lb on a 7000lb trailer). I wouldn't want to be pushing from the rear and have it pop off a ball.
There is little concern about the bumper thickness, since this is just a device for short moves in his yard. And there won't be any negative or positive hitch weight, since a tow bar is hinged at the trailer attachment points. Weight will still be on the front trailer jack as usual. The tow bar acts as a steering and pushing device, not much else.
If the OP is still going to buy a dolly, that is partially true (it would eliminate the hitch weight being negative).
I still wouldn't trust the typical rear bumper not to cave in.
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campigloo

Baton Rouge, La

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Since you have access to a dolly I’d go the plywood route. Rip a sheet of 3/4 and lap the ends.
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spoon059

Just north of D.C.

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A1ARealtorRick wrote: afidel wrote: My concern would be local and/or state ordinances about occupation of a trailer as a residence. I know where I'm at that's a complete non-starter and I assume California is even more strict as far as regulation. Before you sink a bunch of time and energy into this you'd be smart to look into the legalities of what you're thinking of doing.
^^^ What he said
I can think of about a dozen reasons why this sounds like a bad idea to me, but he isn't asking, so why are you guys offering?
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2012Coleman

Florida

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It seems to me that if you towed it it - the door would be on the wrong side.
And I have stayed in an Airstream AirB&B - it was plenty cool. Don't knock it till you have tried it.
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GrandpaKip

Flat Rock

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Compact tractor. Mine is only 5’ wide and would move the trailer just fine.
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Jebby14

Windsor Ontario

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if turning is the problem cant you just back it in
Q: Whats brown and sticky???
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