2112
Texas
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Mike134 wrote:Johnny Hurryup wrote:I bought this truck a few months ago. It has the trailer hitch 7 pin connector and on the dash, a screen for towing info. But it has no brake controller with some kind of gain control. I'm shopping for a travel trailer. What do I need?
I recommend the Ford integrated brake controller.
You'll find this forum advise seems to limit a F150 to 6000lbs the F150 forum folks are comfortable up to 8000lbs.
here's a link to get you started
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/adding-trailer-brake-controller-483714/ The real confusion is the fact that all F-150's are not built the same. You can't say you have an F-150, so you are good up to xxxxlbs. My previous 2005 F-150 was max'ed out towing a 6000lb TT. My current 2011 tows a 10,000lb FW very comfortably. This FW would have crushed the 2005's rear axle and smoked the tranny. You have to know your numbers.
Yes, I know my 2011 is a rare bird but I'm using this as an exaggerated example. Point is, F-150's have a wide range of spec's. You need to know your specific trucks specifications to determine what you can tow.
* This post was
edited 09/04/20 05:31am by 2112 *
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
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Mike134
Elgin
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2112 wrote:Mike134 wrote:Johnny Hurryup wrote:I bought this truck a few months ago. It has the trailer hitch 7 pin connector and on the dash, a screen for towing info. But it has no brake controller with some kind of gain control. I'm shopping for a travel trailer. What do I need?
I recommend the Ford integrated brake controller.
You'll find this forum advise seems to limit a F150 to 6000lbs the F150 forum folks are comfortable up to 8000lbs.
here's a link to get you started
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/adding-trailer-brake-controller-483714/ The real confusion is the fact that all F-150's are not built the same. You can't say you have an F-150, so you are good up to xxxxlbs. My previous 2005 F-150 was max'ed out towing a 6000lb TT. My current 2011 tows a 10,000lb FW very comfortably. This FW would have crushed the 2005's rear axle and smoked the tranny. You have to know your numbers.
Yes, I know my 2011 is a rare bird but I'm using this as an exaggerated example. Point is, F-150's have a wide range of spec's. You need to know your specific trucks specifications to determine what you can tow.
I agree but to my point there's a thread on this forum where they asked if it should be a 1/2T or 3/4T The weight police recommend a 1ton "just in case" For the trailer they were speaking about a 1/2T would be just fine.
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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I thought this was about a break controller, the op dosen't even have a TT yet. Lol.
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2112
Texas
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Agreed. According to the same weight police I should be using nothing short of a 1 ton DRW. I do admit I should be using a 3/4 ton, but this particular F-150 gets the job done nicely.
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2112
Texas
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Sjm9911 wrote:I thought this was about a break controller, the op dosen't even have a TT yet. Lol. The brake controller went on break!
We are providing the OP unsolicited information to consider when shopping for a TT.
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packpe89
NC
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Try to get this back on track. You can add an after market brake controller or try and get a OEM controller added. I would prefer the OEM as they seem to me to integrate better. When you tap your brakes, the trailer will also brake and the trick is to get this feeling seamlessly, so they stop together and not the trailer stopping the truck. The OEM seems to be better at this, I think. The other things going on here are, look at the payload sticker on your driver door jam and get your payload. This will tell you how much your truck can legally carry, including passengers, hitch, and weight of the trailer on the hitch (Tongue weight). There are also some comments on if you have a tow package, which would add a transmission cooler among other things. May want to mention which motor and drive ratio. Good Luck!
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OH48Lt
Whitehouse, OH
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The factory IBC is located to the right of the steering wheel and down low on the dash. If you don't have the factory IBC, there will be a small opening there that will have a plastic storage space box. The IBC wiring plug is already there, attached to a dummy plug on the back of that box. You have to remove that small box by taking apart some plastic pieces (center stack cover, console cover, etc). Plug in the IBC that you must buy for about $100, and put it back together. There are some YouTube videos on the subject. Be cautious about which IBC you buy. A Ford dealer will ask you for your VIN so you get the correct one. The ones for sale on eBay might not be the correct one for your vehicle.
Now you must tell the computer that the IBC is installed. A decent Ford dealership can do that for you, or you can do it yourself with the Forscan program. There are 2 lines of code that need modification. That is another entire discussion.
You probably also need to install a relay that Ford provides. Should be in your glove compartment unless somebody removed it or already installed it.
2017 Ford F-150 Crew Cab 4x4 3.5 EcoBoost
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Sjm9911
New Jersey
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P11SCM/?tag=td-trailer-brake-controllers-pcr-20
I had this on my older gmc, worked great and was easy to install. The factory one will look better, not sure if that will play out into work better. But this should be all you need.
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goducks10
There
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Sjm9911 wrote:I thought this was about a break controller, the op dosen't even have a TT yet. Lol.
Your sig date shows that you haven't been on here reading posts for very long. The normal for threads to go off track is around 4-6 posts in. Some never get back on track. LOL
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spoon059
Just north of D.C.
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OP, I don't know about the Ford controller, but I can highly recommend the Tekonsha P3. Great controller that is easy to wire in if your truck is prewired. Universal setup, lots of variables you can adjust. Its reasonably priced too.
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