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 > No water pressure when connected to city water.

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carlos6466

usa

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Posted: 09/13/20 02:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2020 Coleman Lantern Edition 295QB. Since I bought it, I have very little water pressure when connected to city water via the water inlet on the side of the trailer. There is plenty of water pressure when using the water pump.

I removed and replaced the one way valves (back-flow valves) on the end of the inlets as one was defective yet water still is only a trickle.

I do not have a pressure regulator on in the inlet or water supply so there is not a defect there. I've tested the water pressure and it is at 80 psi.

I connected the water to a different intake source, in this case, the water hot water heater, and the water flowed normally without the water pump on.

The trailer has a sealed (winterized) bottom, so I can't look underneath to see if the water line is damaged or crushed. I suspect it is in the floor which I don't want to tear up.

I could create a new water intake point but that opens up the trailer to another point of failure not to mention that shouldn't be something that I have to do.

I've drained all the water and blew all the water out, a flush if you will, and that didn't do anything.

The aerators at the sinks and the hose washer with debris filter are not restricted. I do not have a water filter system installed in the water line.

The hot water heater is connected correctly.

I will not go to the dealer because of ongoing bad experiences so everything I do will have to be done by myself. I also wouldn't want them tearing up the floor. I am a full-time RV-er so giving up the trailer for any length of time isn't practical for me. I can do all the work as this is my second trailer. The first I had full-time for ten years.

I suspect that something is in the PEX line but I don't think that removing and replacing it is possible without heavy and significant damage to the trailer.

So, has anyone had this problem? Any fixes? Anything else I could check? Does anyone know if Coleman installed a pressure reducer inline with the intake connection point that could have malfunctioned and I could remove?

Thanks greatly for any help or advice.

Lynnmor

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Posted: 09/13/20 02:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Follow the line from the city water port to the first fixture, there must be a restriction. If you were to remove the cold water line to the water heater and back flush from there with the city water port check valve removed, maybe you could dislodge debris or at least check the flow. Another method would be to connect a garden hose to the cold water low point drain instead of at the water heater.





sch911

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Posted: 09/13/20 04:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's usually easy to get to water lines from the inside of the trailer. Inside cabinets, remove drawers, etc...


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Beverley&Ken

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Posted: 09/13/20 05:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have good pressure from your pump, but not city water, the restriction would be in the short section or fitting s from the city water inlet to where it tees into the main water feed line from the pump before the first fixture. After that point it's common plumbing to the whole RV, pressurized by either or both sources. Check inside your cupboards from where the city water inlet is to where that line connects with the line from the pump, usually fairly close to the pump. Hopefully just a link or pinched PEX line.

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bigorange

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Posted: 09/13/20 05:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Agree with what other have said...assuming you bought it new, I’m betting on a debris clog somewhere between the inlet and the supply tee. Is there an in-line filter or strainer that might be clogged? Our trailer had several lines and one faucet that were slow flowing due to debris from manufacturing.


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Fisherman

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Posted: 09/13/20 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bigorange wrote:

Agree with what other have said...assuming you bought it new, I’m betting on a debris clog somewhere between the inlet and the supply tee. Is there an in-line filter or strainer that might be clogged? Our trailer had several lines and one faucet that were slow flowing due to debris from manufacturing.


I took off the strainers/aerators on all the taps, shower head, etc and didn't believe how many wood chips came out of there. The nitwit assemblers have absolutely no pride in workmanship.

opnspaces

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Posted: 09/13/20 07:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does your trailer have separate fill openings for city water and fresh tank water? Or do you have one hookup and you flip a lever to direct the water?

If two fill openings the city water line most likely comes into the trailer behind a cabinet or under a piece of furniture. Have somebody stand by the water hookup and go inside the trailer and see what is on the inside wall. You'll probably be able to take out a drawer or look under or inside a cabinet and the fitting will be there.

Follow the line from the outside wall and cut out the first T that you come across. If the T is not clogged then put a bucket at the end of the hose inside and have someone turn on the city water for a second or two. I'll bet you find the problem is right there at the first T.


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ssthrd

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Posted: 09/13/20 07:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

Follow the line from the city water port to the first fixture, there must be a restriction. If you were to remove the cold water line to the water heater and back flush from there with the city water port check valve removed, maybe you could dislodge debris or at least check the flow. Another method would be to connect a garden hose to the cold water low point drain instead of at the water heater.


X2

When hooked up to city water, do you have "good" pressure, and then it quickly falls off to a trickle when you turn on a tap? If so, you must have a kink or some debris somewhere between between the source tap and the water heater. Have you checked the supply hose itself?

Remove the screen at the trailer inlet then backflush as Lynnmor suggests. There is a sink tap to garden hose adaptor made for backlash situations. Take the aerator off the tap, and screw the adaptor on in it's place. Hook the garden hose up and flush.

Maybe check your local hardware store for one. You may also need a female (edited) by female (edited) hose adaptor for the source end.

Could be that there is a kink in the pex line if the supply hose is good. Good luck locating it if it is not obvious.

As an aside, 80 PSI could be a bit much for your RV. I prefer something around 40-50. Not sure, but I believe that RV water systems are rated at something like 60PSI. Something for you to check out.

Hope this helps.

* This post was edited 09/14/20 02:24am by ssthrd *


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carringb

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Posted: 09/13/20 07:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can you remove the back-pressure valve, and back-flush your inlet pipe? Seeing how much garbage and debris the RV makers leave EVERYWHERE, you're probably right that something is caught up in there.

That said.... You're sure you didn't accidentally connect to the black tank flush? The two are identical on my trailer, and only cary by cap color.


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jdc1

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Posted: 09/13/20 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tear those anti-siphon check-valves out. They serve no purpose to YOU. If you have one going from the city water to the pump area, that's probably your problem. Maybe even installed backwards.

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