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Best portable heater (30 amp) for my rv?

jimbo4UT
Explorer
Explorer
Would appreciate anyone who has a ceramic or other type portable heater to chime in and tell me what brand they have and if they feel it does a good job heating. My rig is a 32 feet Class C.

thanks in advance,

Jimbo
35 REPLIES 35

jimbo4UT
Explorer
Explorer
thank you everyone for your answers. You guys are the best.

Jimbo

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
Resistance based electric heat is 98% efficient, but the problem is that conventional sources of electrical power production like coal and gas are around 30-49% efficient. Plus you have to use power to send electricity over long distances on the grid.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
travisc,

Electric heaters are generally 99.9% efficient. Watts are watts.

However volts x amps = watts.

If the voltage is 120 then:

120 x 120 = 14400

If the voltage drops to 100 then:

100 x 100 = 10000.

That results in a significant loss of watts, about 30%
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

travisc
Explorer
Explorer
We have two of these due to their small size but looks like they may not sell them anymore

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Broan-Big-Heat-Portable-Heater-p/08-0105.htm
Winnebago Access 24V

rhagfo
Explorer
Explorer
RAS43 wrote:
2oldman wrote:
My furnace works fine.


That's helpful for OP. ??


I am sure the OP wants portable electric heaters as park electric is included in the site price, propane isnโ€™t. Well my furnace also works fine, and when the wall switch is flipped to electric I am using the park provided electricity. I am heated and the basement is heated.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
2oldman wrote:
My furnace works fine.


Hmmm ... so does mine. ๐Ÿ˜‰

But probably the OP was wanting advice for hookup camping. I sure wish I had the money to blow on enough lithium batteries and solar panels to keep an electric heater running while drycamping - since I really hate running around in small towns looking for a place that can/will refill my RV's built-in propane tank. :B
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

RAS43
Explorer III
Explorer III
2oldman wrote:
My furnace works fine.


That's helpful for OP. ??

2oldman
Explorer
Explorer
My furnace works fine.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

NRALIFR
Explorer
Explorer
Iโ€™ve always preferred ceramic heaters for their safety advantage over most other portable electric heaters. The only other portable heater that would have a similar safety level (some would say better) would be oil-filled heaters. I would say the ceramics work better, and are much smaller though.

This is copied from the Wikipedia article on ceramic heaters. It briefly explains it better than I can.

โ€œElectric heating elements made of resistance wire have a positive temperature coefficient of resistivity, but do not increase their resistance enough to be self-regulating; they are typically used with the wires red-hot. The ceramic, on the other hand, increases its resistance sharply at the Curie temperatures of the crystalline components, typically 120 degrees Celsius, and remains below 200 degrees Celsius, providing a significant safety advantage.โ€œ

Keep in mind also that air circulation is important, especially in an RV that typically isnโ€™t insulated very well. If you allow the air to stratify inside the camper, you will find yourself needing to run the heat more, and possibly still having freeze-up problems with plumbing and tanks.

:):)
2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450 โ€˜Scuse me while I whinge.
And for all you Scooby-Doo and Yosemite Sam typesโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ..Letโ€™s Go Brandon!!!

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
I found that a portable heater was always in the way, and you had to be very carful not to knock it over.
And because the thermostat is mounted on the heater, there is a rather large temperature swing between on and off.

So I installed a toe kick electric heater. They are a small electric furnace and fit under the kitchen sink, and use a wall mounted thermostat.

Dusty

jimbo4UT
Explorer
Explorer
wow lots of great tips, thanks everyone. I had an oil filled heater and i never got even close to warm. I tried using a fan blowing thru the heater to get it to give out heat and that didn't work either. Really like the idea of using another heavy duty electrical line from the pole to inside and just run the heater from that one. Saved on the rig electrical lines, i would think and you can place it where you want to. Thanks again everyone

Jimbo

bikendan
Explorer
Explorer
gbopp wrote:
If you want quiet, get an oil filled heater. They take up more space but do the job.
Otherwise, get the heater you like. As said, they are all about 1500 watts.
Even the cheap ones.


That's what we use. no noise.
Dan- Firefighter, Retired:C, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur:W, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP:(), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
Heat in your trailer will help keep your tanks warm.
25 degrees is no big deal.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
rk911 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:


Hi Lwiddis,

I replaced the furnace return air grill with this...It pressurizes the duct work and keeps the plumbing from freezing up. It is controlled by a mechanical thermostat which is tucked against the outside wall inside the kitchen cabinets.


got a link to share, pls?


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Holmes-HAWF2021-WMUM-Dual-Blade-Twin-Window-Fan/17133777
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.