pnichols
The Other California
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Joined: 04/26/2005
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jimbo4UT wrote:Would appreciate anyone who has a ceramic or other type portable heater to chime in and tell me what brand they have and if they feel it does a good job heating. My rig is a 32 feet Class C.
thanks in advance,
Jimbo
Here's what we use in our RV. It's an outstanding combination electric heater that simultaneously puts out both radiant heat and warm air heat.
We've had ours for years and have used it in our home and now use it in the RV. It's worth the wait until it becomes available again:
https://www.kmart.com/holmes-quartz-tower-heater-hqh320/p-006W060046311312P
Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca Spirit 24V
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RAS43
Littleton,CO
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Joined: 03/23/2006
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Lots of good advice here and good brands out in the market. I have a Holmes and a 1Touch, both 1500 watts. When one of them quits I will try a Vornado. I usually run one on low all night and have the furnace set as backup, the setting depends on the overnight low. Down to about 35 degrees the furnace may come on near morning. I have used 2 heaters at times when colder but placing them can be an issue and having 2 running is a concern for us. We have been out in nights down to the high teens. On those nights We open the kitchen and bath cabinet doors to warm the piping. I haven't had an issue with the tanks with these methods.
One thing I highly recommend is to run another heavy duty cord into the unit for one heater if the electric box has a 20 amp outlet. This takes the load off of the RV's circuits and makes it safer if two heaters are used. It is easy to do with slide outs as the cord can be passed by a seal.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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rk911 wrote:pianotuna wrote:
Hi Lwiddis,
I replaced the furnace return air grill with this...It pressurizes the duct work and keeps the plumbing from freezing up. It is controlled by a mechanical thermostat which is tucked against the outside wall inside the kitchen cabinets.
got a link to share, pls?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Holmes-HAWF20........WMUM-Dual-Blade-Twin-Window-Fan/17133777
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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ppine
Northern Nevada
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Heat in your trailer will help keep your tanks warm.
25 degrees is no big deal.
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bikendan
Camano Island, Wash.
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Joined: 11/21/2005
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gbopp wrote:If you want quiet, get an oil filled heater. They take up more space but do the job.
Otherwise, get the heater you like. As said, they are all about 1500 watts.
Even the cheap ones.
That's what we use. no noise.
Dan- Firefighter, Retired">, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur">, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP">), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
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jimbo4UT
Stafford Virginia
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wow lots of great tips, thanks everyone. I had an oil filled heater and i never got even close to warm. I tried using a fan blowing thru the heater to get it to give out heat and that didn't work either. Really like the idea of using another heavy duty electrical line from the pole to inside and just run the heater from that one. Saved on the rig electrical lines, i would think and you can place it where you want to. Thanks again everyone
Jimbo
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Dusty R
Charlotte Michigan 48813
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Joined: 04/05/2003
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I found that a portable heater was always in the way, and you had to be very carful not to knock it over.
And because the thermostat is mounted on the heater, there is a rather large temperature swing between on and off.
So I installed a toe kick electric heater. They are a small electric furnace and fit under the kitchen sink, and use a wall mounted thermostat.
Dusty
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NRALIFR
Truck Camping Out West
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Joined: 11/27/2005
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I’ve always preferred ceramic heaters for their safety advantage over most other portable electric heaters. The only other portable heater that would have a similar safety level (some would say better) would be oil-filled heaters. I would say the ceramics work better, and are much smaller though.
This is copied from the Wikipedia article on ceramic heaters. It briefly explains it better than I can.
“Electric heating elements made of resistance wire have a positive temperature coefficient of resistivity, but do not increase their resistance enough to be self-regulating; they are typically used with the wires red-hot. The ceramic, on the other hand, increases its resistance sharply at the Curie temperatures of the crystalline components, typically 120 degrees Celsius, and remains below 200 degrees Celsius, providing a significant safety advantage.“
Keep in mind also that air circulation is important, especially in an RV that typically isn’t insulated very well. If you allow the air to stratify inside the camper, you will find yourself needing to run the heat more, and possibly still having freeze-up problems with plumbing and tanks.
![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
* This post was
edited 09/19/20 06:40am by NRALIFR *
2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450
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2oldman
south
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My furnace works fine.
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RAS43
Littleton,CO
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2oldman wrote:My furnace works fine.
That's helpful for OP. ??
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