BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Joined: 02/15/2006

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https://www.gliderpilotshop.com/lead_crystal
I am not an expert so it is just my opinion, but I don't see why sitting at 13.2 instead of 13.45 (see above charging info) would matter for RV work between trips or even for a few months.
You can leave the battery partially charged for long periods no harm, and the worst that 13.2 could do is fail to keep up with a slow discharge.
It looks like leaving them hooked up to the LP and stereo and disconnect open is the worst thing where it says they will get a little sulphated over time. In that case 13.2 between trips must be better, and you also get a shot of 14.4 every so often.
RV use does not match "cyclic use" unless full timing or "standby use" , so you can do whatever makes sense IMO.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Joined: 12/18/2004

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ScottG,
My guess is only if you can do a full recharge every 30 days.
They are advertised as being able to sit uncharged for up to one year.
I'd write to the seller and ask.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Joined: 02/15/2006

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Actually, many (all?) battery specs have the same floating voltage as these SiO2s. (2.25 a cell) My AGMs did and also the flooded batts I have had.
PD's are used successfully with all those other batteries according to various reports
Moved to its own thread----
* This post was
edited 11/29/20 03:03pm by BFL13 *
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StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Joined: 07/16/2003

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pianotuna wrote: steve 4 is not 2. Unless you are using some sort of higher math? lol!
I was trying to figure out why you said that in the first place haha, the only place I have a microwave is the 5th and it has 4 and works gread. the TC doesnt have a microwave so I dont have to worry about running it on the two 6V I have in there.
Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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I got the second one so have 200AH under the closet floor hard to get at, but close to the inverter so that all works out. Also am able to use the 55 amp converter and be close enough to the 25 amp per 100AH charging rate "limit". The thing is, these are modified AGMs and you need to get them to full every so often, same as regular AGMs.
Only way to do that is charge them at 14.6ish till amps get right down. I found that to be around 0.5a/100AH same as my old regular AGMs. BUT that means you need an ammeter and a charger that stays at 14.6ish until you see the amps get down to that.
I use my Trimetric monitor for the ammeter, and my adjustable voltage PowerMax for the method to hold voltage constant without the thing changing "stages" on me when I don't want it to. So that is the same as with my old AGMs too.
It works so the amps get down to around 0.4/0.5 and then next time you look it is 0.6/0.7. That is typical AGM action. Once it is full the amps just go to heat, and as it heats up it takes more amps. So you have to be there to stop the recharge when the amps begin to rise again. Same as regular AGMs.
What is different here, is the high discharge rate allowed with these SiO2s, so I can run the microwave etc on the 200AH bank no worries, and that you can run the bank down to below 20% SOC no worries (another job for the Trimetric to help keep track of how low you go)
It will be over a month now before the next time the camper goes anywhere, so I am floating the SiO2s till then as suggested by Trojan for AGMs. When the camper is busier I will have to decide on the "float or not" question. I think now I will ignore Trojan's guideline, because the batts are too hard to get at for wires off disconnect, and I don't have a remote disconnect method that does not add wire to the inverter-battery distance for more voltage drop. Worry about that next year!
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