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Roof repair dilemma

biggjb
Explorer
Explorer
I just recently replaced the roof on the front of my TC. I replaced the rotten plywood with new plywood and then also replaced the rubber roof. Everything seemed to have went well until it rained. No not the obvious, there was no leaks but the water pooled at the front just before the front cap. I do not want any standing water on the roof and was going to put down some self-leveling lap sealant so the water will not pool but will drain. I still have lots left but I read that the amount of lap sealant should be kept to a minimum. If I do not use lap sealant to fill the low area what can I do?
9 REPLIES 9

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
Place a decorative beam inside to lift the sag out of the roof completely if you can get support to the ends somehow. Anytime a roof does that it's not structured properly or hasn't enough supports is my guess.

joelc
Explorer III
Explorer III
After it rains squeegee it off. If it does not leak you don't have an issue.

What about fabricating some kind of shim that tapers to nothing at the edges but is about half an inch high, or slightly crowned in the middle? Glue it down well in the affected area and then use the great suggestion above for the Eternabond.

The shim could be a rigid but flexible nylon type plastic, water proof and will not come apart. Glue to the roof so there is no fastener penetration.

A piece of 1/2" thick acrylic may work. It can be shaved down with an electric hand planer. I know this can be done because I have done it with some of the sunrooms I build. I have a little Makita electric planer that is set for a very shallow cut. Multiple passes will contour the acrylic the way you need.
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Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
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gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
biggjb wrote:
jimh425 wrote:
You probably could build the area up with Eternabond.

This is actually a very good idea. It's a little more expensive but it will stop water from pooling. Thanks
.
I initially thought about Eternabond. But it would still leave little gaps and pools.
I know many forum members don't like Flex Seal (I've never used it). Maybe pour liquid Flex Seal, or a similar product, into the low spot on the roof until it levels out?
Even if it eventually peeled off, the roof would not leak because there's no penetration.

Kayteg1
Explorer
Explorer
My Fleetwood was build with curved rubber roof from the factory, but than Lance with its 1- sheet aluminum and additional trim sealant hold for 20 years just fine, even the flat roof sag over the years and after a rain water would stand on the center for days.
I could not keep rubber roof sealed for long time as caulk would not stick to it, till Henry silicone roof sealer come to the market few years ago.
That stuff covers everything and sticks to it. Making 1 uniform coat- you can see where it shrinks over gaps and need additional layer.
The hardest part was to seal Eterna bond applied by PO.

biggjb
Explorer
Explorer
jimh425 wrote:
You probably could build the area up with Eternabond.

This is actually a very good idea. It's a little more expensive but it will stop water from pooling. Thanks

jaycocreek
Explorer
Explorer
Ya,that shucks..Mine is that way but it's an aluminum roof..I just park with the front up at home so it drains off the rear instead of the front...
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jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
You probably could build the area up with Eternabond.

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