Kayteg1
California > Nevada
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Joined: 06/18/2015
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The platform with garbage cans installed sure is not for everybody.
I would prize Stow'n go bracket. In the design I pictured above it holds the steps flush with step bumper, so I could step on it to enter the camper just to grab something. My 230lb bend factory bolt at 1 point, but those were all-thread bolts, that I replaced with ones who have thread only on the ends.
Than it takes 5 seconds to undo the straps and pull the steps.
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bigfootford
Fair Oaks, California
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Joined: 12/03/2002
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Kayteg1 wrote:The platform with garbage cans installed sure is not for everybody.
I would prize Stow'n go bracket. In the design I pictured above it holds the steps flush with step bumper, so I could step on it to enter the camper just to grab something. My 230lb bend factory bolt at 1 point, but those were all-thread bolts, that I replaced with ones who have thread only on the ends.
Than it takes 5 seconds to undo the straps and pull the steps.
Hahahahaaa, Garbage Cans....
That shows your colors sir.... hahahaa
Storage Tubs... They hold my Smoky Joe and bbq equipment. The other holds my levelers, jack pads and a big throw rug....
They have traveled for well over 150,000 miles, clear to Prudhoe Bay and across the US 6 times.
I have replaced the tubs 1 time. The nice is if you bump into them they can move around. They sit on seat belt strap material.
The door handle is in just the right place to offer stability climbing in and out.
Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.
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notsobigjoe
southeast
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Joined: 09/15/2016
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This was the last thing I was doing to my 1181. I'm 59 years old and I've been a laborer since i was 17. My knees are just plain old shot. I get injections in them about every three month and it does help but getting in and out of that back door is a chore. I've actually had a builder draw out a set on wooden steps that I could throw in the back seat when traveling but it never fell through. I've tried them all except for the expensive torklift ones. I presently have a Brophy two step and it works out as good as the others I've had. I put some rubber on the backs with some rivets for the dogs and that works out too. Inside the step up from the basement I built a half step out of wood and carpet. I would love for someone to come up with a new design, something that's 6 or 7 inches high and a little deeper. Just adding to the conversation... Thanks,Joe
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Kayteg1
California > Nevada
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notsobigjoe wrote:This was the last thing I was doing to my 1181. I'm 59 years old and I've been a laborer since i was 17. My knees are just plain old shot. I get injections in them about every three month and it does help but getting in and out of that back door is a chore....
I had joints pains since my 40's and even landed in ER with elbow infection. For years I was scared walk the ladders as I could not trust my knees. That was in No California.
Than in my early 50's I landed a 1-year project in San Diego inland (desert climate - google Welk Resort). All the pain went away and was away for another 1/2 year upon my return to San Francisco East Bay.
So for my retirement I moved on desert to Las Vegas.
Now feel better than 10 years ago.
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billtex
RI
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Joined: 07/20/2004
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bigfootford wrote:Hay Rob, guess you did not look at my BF to realize my porch is what you need. Mine is 18" but you could do it less. Simple bracing from the rear jack brackets.
Here is the build thread showing what Reddog1 and I did years ago. I did get the Glow Steps from Torquelift. A big difference in rigidity.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/EYD9CM5l.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/9sJERovl.jpg)
https://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25135064.cfm
Jim
Our solution is similar except I was able to mount the Glo-steps directly under the door frame. Note; I retained the OE two step and I leave it in place (folded up when under way). In the event we unload the TC we can use the OE setup. This setup works well for us and gives us a lot of flexibility depending on slope, etc
Edit; Let’s see if this works ">]![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/WgC9FwJl.jpg)
Bill
* This post was
edited 11/24/20 09:09am by billtex *
2020 F350 CC LB
Eagle Cap 850
25'Airstream Excella
"Good People Drink Good Beer"-Hunter S Thompson
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adamis
Northern California
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Joined: 06/09/2016
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HMS Beagle wrote:This is what I did on my BF10.4:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26930920.cfm
One difficulty with the BF basement campers is the basement door must remain accessible, but placing the first step below it is a very large first step down from the door. I've used this since 2013 and it has worked very well. On my prior BF9.6, I built something slightly similar, but it was mounted on a hitch extension instead of the camper. The scissors steps are much more stable and safe feeling, if they are rigidly attached.
If you are up this way you are welcome to have a look and a try. There is a simple video demonstrating.
HMS Beagle, sent you a private message. Please take a look when you get a chance. Thanks!
1999 F350 Dually with 7.3 Diesel
2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Camper
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adamis
Northern California
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A quick update on this project. Thanks to HMS Beagle's permission, I am looking at adapting his idea but with a slight change. The idea is a modular "accessory" bar that is mounted to the jacks. On this a solid platform for the steps can be added. It will have the ability to slide side to side on the bracket so access to the compartment underneath by just sliding the steps to the side. The goal is not to require changing out the sewer house tubing to simpliy installation.
Additionally, in addition to the stairs, there might be the option to add some accessory brackets for attaching bikes, chairs or other items. I am working with my CAD guy to refine these ideas before we build a unit at the factory. If you like the idea of accessory brackets, let me know what type of brackets or items you think would be nice to have the ability to mount to such a bar.
If you are interested in this, let me know. Once the design is finalized and first unit is made for my truck, if I'm satisified with it I am willing to offer it to others that might have an interest.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/d6EGKaXl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/Ifd1AMSl.jpg)
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HMS Beagle
Napa, California
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Joined: 08/22/2003
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I like it!. There would need to be some way to lock it in the middle, or it will migrate to the side while you drive. I would not depend on the square tube bumper for much strength, it is not attached to the shell with that in mind.
Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear
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adamis
Northern California
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HMS Beagle wrote:I like it!. There would need to be some way to lock it in the middle, or it will migrate to the side while you drive. I would not depend on the square tube bumper for much strength, it is not attached to the shell with that in mind.
Thanks! Though I can't take the credit for this iteration of your design. I have a guy that does CAD work for my business and I asked him to look at your design and go from there. I agree that sliding side to side needs to be addressed in some way. We are also not relying on the box tubing because of it's lack of strength.
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HMS Beagle
Napa, California
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You may want to check your height of door sill to ground and see how it divides into the step rise. I used the Bigfoot supplied scissors, and concluded that the rise needed to be a bit more to get an even rise including the last step into the door. I added some length to the vertical members of the scissors to accomplish that, it changes the folded profile a little.
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