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 > Do we have to winterize if we use our RV during the winter?

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forrman

Southwest Utah

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Posted: 11/08/20 09:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We live in Southern Utah, where temperatures are starting to dip in the low 30s and high 20s at night. But during the daylight hours temperatures are in the high 40s to Lowe 50s. We still plan to go camping every 3-4 weeks from now through the Spring. Do we still need to winterize bnow and de-winterize right before our next trip?


Forrman
2020 Forest River Wildwood Heritage Glen HL TT

Lwiddis

Williams AZ area

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Posted: 11/08/20 10:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Better to be safe than sorry. Winterizing doesn’t take that long to do or reverse. You’ll need to sanitize regardless.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watt solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist14 yr. Army vet-11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


corvettekent

Marysville, WA

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Posted: 11/08/20 10:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No, not if you can get it above freezing in the daytime. I put an electric heater in my 5th wheel that will keep the inside just above freezing temperature.


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d3500ram

Colorado

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Posted: 11/08/20 10:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you get into the 50's during the day and are able to open it up, do so at the height of the day. Let that cold air out and the warm in.

Close it back up once the temps start to dip. The fresh air won't hurt either.

Desert Captain

Tucson

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Posted: 11/08/20 10:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm seeing similar temps here in central Arizona {at 5,000'} and the short answer is "Yes".
An occasional dip into the mid to high twenties is not likely to damage but... if it drops into the 20's and stays there for more than a few hours or so things will begin to freeze, and not in a good way.

I haven't had the need to blow out the lines and refill them with antifreeze but I do drain all of the water from the coach {and then drive it around for about 5 miles with the drains open and that chases most of the water from the lines down and out} and fill the traps {sinks and shower} with a cup or two and put about a quart in the black and gray tanks.

Our class C resides in the driveway and has AC power 24/7 so anytime the temps are headed south I can just run a small electric heater set to around 50 - 60 degrees. Opening drawers and cabinet doors help circulate the warmer air. Also the rig has tank heaters and I will turn them on anytime the temps are going to stay below 30 for any length of time.

We usually use our coach throughout the year but this is our first winter up at 5,000' so I will adjust the above as needed. good luck.

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forrman

Southwest Utah

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Posted: 11/08/20 10:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for your reply! I saw another post where someone said it's best to run hot water through the shower and sinks, and flush the toilet, at night and in the morning, also. What do you think?

Desert Captain

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Posted: 11/08/20 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

forrman wrote:

Thanks for your reply! I saw another post where someone said it's best to run hot water through the shower and sinks, and flush the toilet, at night and in the morning, also. What do you think?


Two different ways to go... if you are living {camping - traveling} in the rig then flushing toilets and running hot water certainly could not hurt and would be easy to do. If you are not and the coach is not immediately available {as in your driveway vs a distant storage facility} then these methods probably would not be all that doable often enough to effect much protection.

Once I have drained the fresh water from the rig the only thing that goes down any drains or the toilet is the pink RV anti freeze. When we are ready to travel again I just refill the fresh water tank and turn on the pump and we are good top go - with no need to flush the antifreeze as it will just be pushed from the traps into the black/gray tanks.

As always... Opinions and YMMV

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bukhrn

Lanexa, Va

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Posted: 11/08/20 12:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sure about the Wildwood, but my Forester has all the water lines and fresh water tank above the floor, so if you have power available, use an electric heater as mentioned above.


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we3

Birnamwood Wi.

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Posted: 11/08/20 05:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For me the answer is always yes if there is any question. I have had frozen lines once and I am sure that drives my decisions. Not a fun time. Im sure that it will get cooler no matter where you live and as was mentioned it has more to do with how long rather then how cold. I am set up so I can winterize in about 5 minutes. Then when I dewinterize I save the antifreeze from the lines to use in the drains next time. By doing that I can winterize with only 1 gal of antifreeze. For me that is not worth the chance that it may freeze up.

CFerguson

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Posted: 11/08/20 06:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While there are certainly ways around it, I'd advise winterizing everything at risk- multiple times if called for. It's just not that much effort and if you are wrong, the expense/aggravation can be huge.

Perhaps adding some thermometers to check 1st thing each morning could give you a better idea how cold those critical spots are actually getting overnight.

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