bikendan
Camano Island, Wash.
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okhmbldr wrote:
Yes, the V6 can handle a long trip. I can only speak from my own experience. I have a 2014 GMC Acadia that I ordered with the "trailering Package". It included the 4-pin wiring harness, hitch, larger radiator and transmission cooler. I have pulled a 5000# trailer with no problems. My normal hwy gas mileage is about 22-24, pulling the trailer dropped to 16. The V6 produces almost 300 hp, so it works well at pulling. The tow capacity with the towing package is 5100#. Without the tow package the same vehicle is limited to 3500#.
How do you tow a 5000lbs TT with a 4 pin harness, since 5000lbs trailers have electric brakes. By law, you're required to have a brake controller to power the electric brakes, which requires a 7 pin harness.
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okhmbldr
oklahoma city
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* This post was
edited 11/15/20 10:05am by okhmbldr *
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dodge guy
Bartlett IL
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okhmbldr wrote:bikendan wrote:okhmbldr wrote:
Yes, the V6 can handle a long trip. I can only speak from my own experience. I have a 2014 GMC Acadia that I ordered with the "trailering Package". It included the 4-pin wiring harness, hitch, larger radiator and transmission cooler. I have pulled a 5000# trailer with no problems. My normal hwy gas mileage is about 22-24, pulling the trailer dropped to 16. The V6 produces almost 300 hp, so it works well at pulling. The tow capacity with the towing package is 5100#. Without the tow package the same vehicle is limited to 3500#.
How do you tow a 5000lbs TT with a 4 pin harness, since 5000lbs trailers have electric brakes. By law, you're required to have a brake controller to power the electric brakes, which requires a 7 pin harness.
Cite the law.
Every state has a law requiring brakes on anything over X amount of weight. As well as a breakaway system. At 5k lbs you are far over even the minimum weight of some state requirements at around 3k lbs. It's even in the owners manual. Do you run a Weight Ditributing hitch? I'm sure your 5k trailer has more than 500lbs of Toungue Weight!
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Horsedoc
Dixie --- N. Georgia
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"cite the law"
bikendan is right . Will this suit you oklahoma?
https://dps.georgia.gov/sites/dps.georgi........t_1210/12/14/162466397fact_sheet_054.pdf
* This post was
edited 11/15/20 07:32am by an administrator/moderator *
horsedoc
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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Since you’re back to motorhomes, don’t rule out small class As IMO.
Find the best deal you can with the lowest miles and best maintenance prioritized over your “ideal” floor plan.
Agree, with no towing experience, a single large vehicle will be safer and more comfortable for you to drive
"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.
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Tortiemctortiepants
VA
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I do need to look into class A’s... for some reason I had it in my head that they were all really big so I had ruled them out. I’m not sure what the difference between a’s and c’s are, so I’ll have to do some research. Thanks for the suggestion!
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DrewE
Vermont
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The difference between class C and class A motorhomes are what sort of chassis they're built on.
A class A motorhome is built on a bare chassis or a dedicated bus chassis. The coach builder creates all the bodywork for the vehicle.
A class B motorhome is built inside a cargo van, with the van maker supplying all the outside bodywork (except possibly for a raised roof).
A class C motorhome is built on a cutaway chassis or cab-and-chassis, with the vehicle chassis manufacturer supplying the cab portion of the bodywork and the coach builder the rear house part of the bodywork. Most but not all class C's have a cabover bunk or entertainment center area, giving them a somewhat distinctive look from the side. Most if not all of what are sold as "Class B+" motorhomes are technically class C motorhomes; class B+ is nothing more than a marketing term.
A (very) few oddball motorhomes don't neatly fit into one of the three classes.
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