arcsum68

Northern CA

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Old-Biscuit wrote: arcsum68 wrote: Sorry, totally should have mentioned that.
Suburban SRNA3SBBE
After lighting the Pilot the thermocouple should be directly over the pilot flame....it is what heats the thermocouple and allows gas control to send gas to burner based on oven knob setting/thermostat
When oven temp is reached the Main Flame should NOT go out...should diminish in size --- normal for this type of thermostat and this
flame size will maintain a constant temperature with in the oven.
If oven temp drops below setting then thermostat will increase Main Flame size to bring oven temp back up
Pilot flame.....heats thermocouple
Main flame size increases/decreases until oven knob is turn back to Pilot position OR OFF (which secures Pilot Flame also)
So is Pilot Flame heating thermocouple?
Does Main Flame stay lit...just change sizes?
Thanks OB, I learned all about thermocouples a handful of years back when I was having an issue with my water heater. RV oven problems are new to me, but I understand how the thermocouple itself works.
The pilot IS heating the thermocouple, it has to be or the oven would never light, at least that's the way I understand it. I did read people saying they adjusted theirs by tweaking the mounting assembly, but mine seems to be setup fairly well, I will take another look though and maybe try to get a picture.
I have not sat there and watched the flame, yesterday when I was troubleshooting it stayed lit for over 15 minutes, so it's not something that happens immediately. Also not sure how I would know if the flame gets lower, I would have to have the oven door open and I doubt it would ever get to temperature like that. Maybe I could throw a heat gun on the thermostat to see what happens?
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arcsum68

Northern CA

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OK, usable data!
Knowing what I have learned (thanks all) I went ahead and fired it up and recorded everything with the door open. Great idea right? Well my phone overheated and didn't save any of it, and no it was not IN the oven! I am not sure how long it took, but when I checked at 17 minutes the pilot was flickering and popping. I did get a smaller clip of it that I can share if anyone wants to see it. I figured I would let it go, because I wanted to see if it would stay lit, it did. At about 25 minutes I figured I would close the door, I knew it would inevitably go out so I sat there and listened to it. Sure enough, within a minute I heard it stop popping and opened the door to watch the main burner stop shortly after. Thermocouple is obviously fine and the issue is the pilot. I did notice that there is actually an adjustment, I was looking in the wrong place. I am going to call Suburban tomorrow to see if there are any known issues before I go trying to adjust the pilot, but I am pretty sure either the pilot light is too small or there is an issue with the regulator.
If anyone has an good info, feel free to share. I will post back either way.
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ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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is the thermocouple in the flame? Is the pilot flame blue and reasonably large? the pilot orifice is small, possible that a spider web or debris is obstructing the flow, which may not provide enough heat for the thermocouple. Or the thermocouple is not aligned well
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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Your problem is the Pilot goes OUT after the first time the main burner comes on and cycles OFF after the Oven has reached preset temp. NO ADJUSTMENT OF THE PILOT IS NEEDED. I have yet ever adjusted a Oven Pilot light flame in 41 years. They are usually dirty or clogged. NOT the problem in your case. In older Ovens this type problem was fixed by replacing the Oven Temp control assbly. But, in newer ovens it is a defective Pilot assbly, usually. There are 2 things that fix your problem. Doug
1. Defective Oven tstat
2. Defective Pilot assbly
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arcsum68

Northern CA

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dougrainer wrote: Your problem is the Pilot goes OUT after the first time the main burner comes on and cycles OFF after the Oven has reached preset temp. NO ADJUSTMENT OF THE PILOT IS NEEDED. I have yet ever adjusted a Oven Pilot light flame in 41 years. They are usually dirty or clogged. NOT the problem in your case. In older Ovens this type problem was fixed by replacing the Oven Temp control assbly. But, in newer ovens it is a defective Pilot assbly, usually. There are 2 things that fix your problem. Doug
1. Defective Oven tstat
2. Defective Pilot assbly
I 100% agree, which is why I was not going to adjust it. After doing some additional reading I believe there is a problem with the pilot orifice getting hot and constricting the flow of gas. Looks like it's a $15 part, but I am going to call Suburban today and see if they can confirm this and check for any other TSB's and/or recalls.
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arcsum68

Northern CA

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Suburban was not much help. The only thing they brought up was that the manifold/gas valve in mine was changed the following year. Apparently the newer version has a square tube and the gas valve was changed. I really cannot see that being the issue, I can have all 3 burners on and the oven with nice blue flames. Gas delivery to the entire system is not a problem. I am going to order the pilot assembly and see where that takes me.
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arcsum68

Northern CA

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Hey all, got it all working perfectly now. I replaced the pilot assembly for $15 and I could immediately tell just from the pilot that it was different. The pilot light was much stronger. Fired it up and let it run for about 45 minutes without any issues. The part was $15 and arrived earlier than expected from Amazon. Install was pretty straight forward, removed the "diffuser" (4 screws) and 2 screws held on the burner and pilot assembly. Took me about 15 minutes. Thank you all for your help as usual, great community here.
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way2roll

Wilmington NC

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Awesome! Thanks for reporting back.
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