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 > 1/2 ton towing

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GrandpaKip

Flat Rock

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Posted: 11/24/20 07:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yep, a little more homework is required. Read all you can on trailer weights, capacities, etc. Same for truck weights and capacities.
That trailer is too much for that truck.
Is the cargo capacity you quoted from the door jamb sticker or a brochure? Every truck has its own cargo capacity depending on options.
There is also a sticker on trailers giving its weight leaving the factory.
Most RV salespeople don’t know squat about weights and don’t care. One guy with “25 years experience” told me that a WDH makes tongue weight just “disappear”.


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djsamuel

Central Florida

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Posted: 11/24/20 07:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My trailer is a 24' trailer with a GVWR of 5,000 pounds. I tow with a 2009 Ram 1500 and it tows great. That said, I don't know if I'd go much above a GVWR of 8,000 pounds; especially if I'm planning on towing in the mountains. A 2500 would be much better with a larger trailer and changing elevations.


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BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 11/24/20 08:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go big or go home! LOL! Seriously that is one beautiful trailer!

As noted, that's a lot trailer for a 1500 truck, but the weight is only the beginning. If you're average campers, you'll add 1200-1500 lbs of stuff in a trailer that size, so you'll be up to 10,000 lbs easily.

10% is the absolute minimum you want for hitch weight to have a stable tow, and that's about what they are quoting for hitch weight here (844/8496=9.9%). Note that mfrs are starting to get smart about making their trailers "half ton towable" by using axle placement to manage hitch weight. If you look at the floorplan, you have lots of storage in the bunk and kitchen areas, which are behind the axle. The danger that creates is that every pound loaded rear of the trailer axles decreases hitch weight, so you could actually wind up with less than 10% hitch weight after the trailer is loaded.

Why this matters is that this trailer is 37' long!!! That's a BIG sail area to catch the wind and without enough hitch weight you won't be able to go more than 35 mph.

Bkuhl1179 wrote:

....but if it’s super windy I wouldn’t tow that day.


Nice thought, but we don't control the weather. Say it's checkout day at the campground, you have to leave by noon because someone else has that site booked tonight....you don't have the option of just waiting until the wind dies down.

The coil spring suspension on the 1500 doesn't do a good job resisting sway and roll on big trailers like this. Most think of going to a 2500 to get the 6.4 or Cummins, but it's really about bigger brakes and stiffer suspension...the 5.7 is a strong motor and with 3.90 gears power isn't going to be your biggest issue.

Even with a heavier truck, I would strongly encourage you to consider one of the two hitches on the market that uses the 4-bar linkage, either the Hensley Arrow or ProPride. These hitch designs use geometry to eliminate sway and enable smooth sway-free towing for very long trailers, even if you are borderline on the hitch weight.

Also consider how you plan to travel...if you are going an hour away to stay week at the lake a few times a season, you'll be OK with your truck. If you plan to actually travel with the trailer, towing will not become an exhausting experience.

Note that most if not all state parks will be inaccessible with a trailer that long. You will limited to campgrounds that advertise "big rig friendly". Our trailer was 35' so we lived with that for many years.

As nice of a trailer as this is, I would encourage you to start smaller.


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SV Todd

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Posted: 11/24/20 08:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you can live with only 400lbs in your truck, that includes driver and passenger and anything in the bed or cab, then you will be just inside your payload rating. After that you have to consider controlling sway.

Can your truck do it? Most likely, but if you want to avoid white knuckle driving on the highway with wind or big trucks passing, you definetely need to look into a hensely or propride 3p hitch. Any conventional WD hitch with friction sway control is going to be a gamble.

If you want a trailer that big, but don't want to drive a 3/4 ton or larger truck the 80% or more of the rest of the time you own your truck, than the $3K it costs for hensley or propride is well worth it.

SV Todd

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Posted: 11/24/20 08:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

richardcoxid wrote:

A long time old friend of mine who was in the independent RV repair business for over 30 years told me.

Nobody but nobody ever complains about to much truck but, a lot of people complain about to little of truck.

He goes on to say that get a little truck go slow get pi** poor fuel mileage, get a big truck go fast get pi** poor fuel mileage.

Seriously often times a large engine “loafing along” will often get very close to the fuel mileage of a small engine screaming at WOT.

That may be true but most part times RV'ers are only pulling a trailer 10 or 20% of the time they drive their truck. Who wants to drive a 3/4 or 1 ton truck with it's terrible unladen fuel mileage 80-90% of the time they own their truck?

Yes if your primary purpose of the truck is towing the trailer a 3/4 or 1 ton would be ideal, but for those whose TV is their primary vehicle the other 80-90% of the time, pushing the limits of a 1/2 ton for relatively short trips is perfectly fine.

valhalla360

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Posted: 11/24/20 08:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

phillyg wrote:

I looked at the trailer specs and I think you'd be maxed out, even if you load lightly. You might want to take a look at a fifthwheel.


Huh???

Travel trailers should have a hitch weight of around 12-15% of the loaded trailer weight.

5th wheels should be around 20-25% of the loaded trailer weight.

So if you keep the truck pretty much empty other than passengers and 5er hitch (which can easily push 200lb), you can handle about 1000lb hitch weight, so your max loaded weight would be on the order of 4000-5000lb trailer.

A 5er drastically reduces the trailer, this truck can handle.


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Boomerweps

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Posted: 11/24/20 08:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Short answer. Yes, you’re crazy to do that.
Back to basics:
Tow ratings are GCWR minus truck curb weight, full tank & 150# driver. IOW, your truck Load Capacity is part of the towing capacity.
So if you buy a TT at/near your factory tow rating, you have no payload left.
I recommend looking at the TT GVWR (figuring it’s too easy to fill it up, unless it’s a toy less toy hauler) and using that to help determine your choice TT.
Best method to determine available tongue weight on your truck is to load it up like for camping, people and all, throw in the WDH, and weigh it on a CAT Scale. Subtract that from your GVWR and that’s your remaining load capacity. Then on the choice TTs in the ranges you are looking, add 2-300# to the empty tongue weight for a closer to ready to camp value.
A non weighing option is to look at GVWR of TTs nearer 75-80% of your tow rating. Then crunch the numbers.


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Grit dog

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Posted: 11/24/20 09:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Diamond c wrote:

Since you just got a new truck if it was me I’d put a set of over load springs and heavy duty shocks. I think that you have plenty of motor and transmission, you just need a little more suspension.


This^^^.
"Ideally", it will be a bit heavy for the truck. Realistically it will definitely be too heavy for the stock rear suspension.
But I have done and do more than that with half tons. Aint broke one in half yet, not even an axle issue, in the 30 years I've been towing stupid stuff with little trucks!
Hemi, 3.92s AND Etorque? It'll be a monster in the pulling department!


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Gdetrailer

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Posted: 11/24/20 09:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Diamond c wrote:

Since you just got a new truck if it was me I’d put a set of over load springs and heavy duty shocks. I think that you have plenty of motor and transmission, you just need a little more suspension.


That is nothing more than putting "lipstick on a pig".

Watched my Dad do that more than once with his tow vehicles, for the money and time he wasted he could have bought a lot of fully loaded more capable vehicles over the years for less than all of the aftermarket upgrade junk and repairs he did..

Moving up to a 3/4 ton platform gets you a stouter frame, stouter springs, stouter axles, stouter brakes, stouter suspension (stronger springs with higher spring rates with less sag), stouter transmission (on some brands) and with some brands you get a vehicle which is designed from ground up for commercial use with longer life with heavy loads/use.

OP already has a new vehicle but has not bought trailer, best bet now is to cross this monster off the list and move on to a trailer weight better suited for the vehicle without the need to slap on a bunch of bandaids and lipstick..

This ain't kiddy world and bumper car rides here, we are talking with big heavy things that when it goes wrong can and will not only hurt people but KILL them.

goducks10

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Posted: 11/24/20 10:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most everything's been said, but I'll my .2 worth.
Not to be blunt but it's reality check time.
Bigger truck or a much smaller trailer.
That TT will be north of 9600 lbs loaded up. @37' long there's no way that any 1/2 ton will be able to handle that TT unless conditions are perfect.
I've towed 9500 lbs with a Ram 2500 and a 3500. Both CC LB. No way on earth would I ever think about towing my TT with a 1/2 ton.
The 1st time a semi comes up beside you and takes 3-4 minutes to get by, you'll be pulling over at the next off ramp to change your underwear.
Here's one on a lot in CA. 8598 lb UVW. Thats with no batteries or propane.

https://www.trailerhitchrv.com/product/n........1-grand-design-imagine-3250bh-1323219-29

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