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Am I making a mistake going with a heavier, thicker bumper?

trailernovice
Explorer
Explorer
Need to replace the standard 4-inch-square steel tube bumper on our TT...plan to go with a replacement of thicker steel (3/16" v. the standard, original thin-wall 1/16")....the more I think about it, the more questions I have...would the heavier bumper create problems just by virtue of its weight, hanging off the end of the frame rails?
thx
Glenn and Toni
2019 Jayco JayFlight SLX8 264 BH
2019 Ram 1500 5.7 3.21 gears
Reese round bar w/d with sway control
21 REPLIES 21

LVJJJ
Explorer
Explorer
I carry one bike on the front of my '05 Trail Cruiser. There is room between the batteries and propane fibreglass cover (not a slide over, actually attaches to the TT), the other is a fold up 12 speed from Camping World, just throw it the back of the Suburban. Just don't like bikes hanging off the back bumper where they can be damaged.
1994 GMC Suburban K1500
2005 Trail Cruiser TC26QBC
1965 CHEVY VAN, 292 "Big Block 6" (will still tow)
2008 HHR
L(Larry)V(Vicki)J(Jennifer)J(Jesse)J(Jason)

MikeDupont
Explorer
Explorer
I usually just put the bicycles into the TT and get them out at the destination (and chain them to something solid).

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
JRscooby wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
JRscooby wrote:

Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.


Sure, you could just remove the old damaged metal bumper and wire tie on the famous PVC sticky slinky tube and not bother with any metal..

However, in the case of an rear end accident you most likely would be wishing that you HAD that metal tube there instead of PVC plastic.

Even though that metal bumper tube is pretty flimsy, it IS there as a safety item for the DRIVER behind you.. Protects the driver behind you from getting speared by your trailer frame!

Does also provide some protection to your trailer in case of minor bumps like backing into something you can't see (power pole, short pipes or other objects).. PVC plastic is just going to shatter and crumble and fall away.


Well looks like a major part of the idea was missed;

JRscooby wrote:
APT wrote:
I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.


The hitch, or a bike rack built and mounted to the frame rails would work better than the tin box to keep a car out of trailer.
And for the low speed impact, bet take less force to fold stock bumper into house than PCV. And what will dent the stock may not faze the PCV


The better thing to do is to put the bikes in a far better place than at the rear of the trailer.

You can buy a 2" hitch receiver adapter that mounts OVER TOP of the propane tanks in the tongue. Install your favorite 2" hitch mount bike rack into the mount and now you no longer have flailing bikes on the back of the trailer.

This now allows you to put new 4" bumper tube on the back and if you don't like the slinky in the metal tube (I NEVER had an issue with holes in the slinky from rust) you can wire tie on your favorite PVC thing..

Personally, I dislike that PVC slinky mod, unless you drill tons of holes in it, it WILL hold moisture and that will turn to mold and mildew.

What I did was mounted a large plastic utility tool bin to the back after extending the bumper out and added an extra cross brace for the bin to the frame.

Inside that box I carry a small easy to clean plastic bin with lid that doesn't seal tight. That small bin is large enough to fit the entire 15' of slinky plus the bayonet fittings and even a 90 degree elbow and a few doughnuts. Those slinkys can collapse into a very compact space and no need for a 8.5' piece of expensive PVC which deteriorates in the sun. I can remove the small slinky bin from the large box and have all of the needed items to hook up all in one easy to clean bin.

I also carry in the big bin, a broom, a sweeper, extra extension cords, some water hoses and other misc outdoor items. All pretty much very lightweight items.

BUT, you are welcome to do as you wish..

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gdetrailer wrote:
JRscooby wrote:

Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.


Sure, you could just remove the old damaged metal bumper and wire tie on the famous PVC sticky slinky tube and not bother with any metal..

However, in the case of an rear end accident you most likely would be wishing that you HAD that metal tube there instead of PVC plastic.

Even though that metal bumper tube is pretty flimsy, it IS there as a safety item for the DRIVER behind you.. Protects the driver behind you from getting speared by your trailer frame!

Does also provide some protection to your trailer in case of minor bumps like backing into something you can't see (power pole, short pipes or other objects).. PVC plastic is just going to shatter and crumble and fall away.


Well looks like a major part of the idea was missed;

JRscooby wrote:
APT wrote:
I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.


The hitch, or a bike rack built and mounted to the frame rails would work better than the tin box to keep a car out of trailer.
And for the low speed impact, bet take less force to fold stock bumper into house than PCV. And what will dent the stock may not faze the PCV

colliehauler
Explorer
Explorer
Exactly GDEtrailer, a bumper is for protecting the trailer from minor incursions. Had a person in Yellowstone run into the back of my TH TT. With the heavy metal that the hinges are mounted to did zero damage to my trailer and put a dent into the hood of the Volkswagen.

If you were to hit a minor object at low speed like a tree or power pole you would have some protection. Otherwise if you damage aluminum siding or fiberglass you would have to remove the whole back side of the trailer to repair.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
JRscooby wrote:

Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.


Sure, you could just remove the old damaged metal bumper and wire tie on the famous PVC sticky slinky tube and not bother with any metal..

However, in the case of an rear end accident you most likely would be wishing that you HAD that metal tube there instead of PVC plastic.

Even though that metal bumper tube is pretty flimsy, it IS there as a safety item for the DRIVER behind you.. Protects the driver behind you from getting speared by your trailer frame!

Does also provide some protection to your trailer in case of minor bumps like backing into something you can't see (power pole, short pipes or other objects).. PVC plastic is just going to shatter and crumble and fall away.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
colliehauler wrote:
JRscooby wrote:
APT wrote:
I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.
I would agree with this as well. Along with building a heavier bumper to replace your paper thin bumper.


Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.

colliehauler
Explorer
Explorer
JRscooby wrote:
APT wrote:
I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.
I would agree with this as well. Along with building a heavier bumper to replace your paper thin bumper.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
time2roll wrote:
If you want to hang stuff off the back do not use the bumper. Get a properly installed class 3 hitch.


Ditto.

The typical RV bumper is only good for one thing: Sewer Hose carrier.

They are very thin as seen in this video
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
APT wrote:
I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.

APT
Explorer
Explorer
I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Have you got the steel?
From wat I read on 2 threads I would consider building a bracket for bike rack, and have tabs on it to mount PCV post for stinky slinky.

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
You won't have to worry about the 3/16 thk tubing tearing like the 1/16. Welds will be thicker. The 3/16 thk tubing will weigh about 75 lbs, so could reduce your tongue weight about 20 lbs less than the 1/16 thk tubing.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad