Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Am I making a mistake going with a heavier, thicker bumper?
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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Am I making a mistake going with a heavier, thicker bumper?

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JRscooby

Indepmo

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Posted: 12/02/20 04:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you got the steel?
From wat I read on 2 threads I would consider building a bracket for bike rack, and have tabs on it to mount PCV post for stinky slinky.

APT

SE Michigan

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Posted: 12/02/20 06:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R

JRscooby

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Posted: 12/02/20 07:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

APT wrote:

I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.

deltabravo

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Posted: 12/02/20 10:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

If you want to hang stuff off the back do not use the bumper. Get a properly installed class 3 hitch.


Ditto.

The typical RV bumper is only good for one thing: Sewer Hose carrier.

They are very thin as seen in this video


2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2009 Arctic Fox 811 (bought new 11/9/09)
2018 Timber Ridge 24RLS (bought pre-owned 3/12/20)
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colliehauler

Mc Pherson KS USA

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Posted: 12/03/20 07:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

APT wrote:

I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.
I would agree with this as well. Along with building a heavier bumper to replace your paper thin bumper.

JRscooby

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Posted: 12/03/20 09:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

colliehauler wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

APT wrote:

I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.
I would agree with this as well. Along with building a heavier bumper to replace your paper thin bumper.


Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.

Gdetrailer

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Posted: 12/03/20 01:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:


Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.


Sure, you could just remove the old damaged metal bumper and wire tie on the famous PVC sticky slinky tube and not bother with any metal..

However, in the case of an rear end accident you most likely would be wishing that you HAD that metal tube there instead of PVC plastic.

Even though that metal bumper tube is pretty flimsy, it IS there as a safety item for the DRIVER behind you.. Protects the driver behind you from getting speared by your trailer frame!

Does also provide some protection to your trailer in case of minor bumps like backing into something you can't see (power pole, short pipes or other objects).. PVC plastic is just going to shatter and crumble and fall away.

colliehauler

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Posted: 12/03/20 02:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Exactly GDEtrailer, a bumper is for protecting the trailer from minor incursions. Had a person in Yellowstone run into the back of my TH TT. With the heavy metal that the hinges are mounted to did zero damage to my trailer and put a dent into the hood of the Volkswagen.

If you were to hit a minor object at low speed like a tree or power pole you would have some protection. Otherwise if you damage aluminum siding or fiberglass you would have to remove the whole back side of the trailer to repair.

JRscooby

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Posted: 12/03/20 02:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:

JRscooby wrote:


Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.


Sure, you could just remove the old damaged metal bumper and wire tie on the famous PVC sticky slinky tube and not bother with any metal..

However, in the case of an rear end accident you most likely would be wishing that you HAD that metal tube there instead of PVC plastic.

Even though that metal bumper tube is pretty flimsy, it IS there as a safety item for the DRIVER behind you.. Protects the driver behind you from getting speared by your trailer frame!

Does also provide some protection to your trailer in case of minor bumps like backing into something you can't see (power pole, short pipes or other objects).. PVC plastic is just going to shatter and crumble and fall away.


Well looks like a major part of the idea was missed;

JRscooby wrote:

APT wrote:

I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.


The hitch, or a bike rack built and mounted to the frame rails would work better than the tin box to keep a car out of trailer.
And for the low speed impact, bet take less force to fold stock bumper into house than PCV. And what will dent the stock may not faze the PCV

Gdetrailer

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Posted: 12/03/20 03:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

JRscooby wrote:


Why use metal to replace the tin box the factory calls "bumper"? PCV to hold drain tube be about same protection, won't rust, and let stinky slinky last longer.


Sure, you could just remove the old damaged metal bumper and wire tie on the famous PVC sticky slinky tube and not bother with any metal..

However, in the case of an rear end accident you most likely would be wishing that you HAD that metal tube there instead of PVC plastic.

Even though that metal bumper tube is pretty flimsy, it IS there as a safety item for the DRIVER behind you.. Protects the driver behind you from getting speared by your trailer frame!

Does also provide some protection to your trailer in case of minor bumps like backing into something you can't see (power pole, short pipes or other objects).. PVC plastic is just going to shatter and crumble and fall away.


Well looks like a major part of the idea was missed;

JRscooby wrote:

APT wrote:

I highly recommend installing a 2" receiver such as this Curt model vs. using the bumper for, well, anything.


Likely a good idea. IMHO, better would be build a bike rack that bolted or welded to frame. Save the pin on rack for TV when not pulling trailer.


The hitch, or a bike rack built and mounted to the frame rails would work better than the tin box to keep a car out of trailer.
And for the low speed impact, bet take less force to fold stock bumper into house than PCV. And what will dent the stock may not faze the PCV


The better thing to do is to put the bikes in a far better place than at the rear of the trailer.

You can buy a 2" hitch receiver adapter that mounts OVER TOP of the propane tanks in the tongue. Install your favorite 2" hitch mount bike rack into the mount and now you no longer have flailing bikes on the back of the trailer.

This now allows you to put new 4" bumper tube on the back and if you don't like the slinky in the metal tube (I NEVER had an issue with holes in the slinky from rust) you can wire tie on your favorite PVC thing..

Personally, I dislike that PVC slinky mod, unless you drill tons of holes in it, it WILL hold moisture and that will turn to mold and mildew.

What I did was mounted a large plastic utility tool bin to the back after extending the bumper out and added an extra cross brace for the bin to the frame.

Inside that box I carry a small easy to clean plastic bin with lid that doesn't seal tight. That small bin is large enough to fit the entire 15' of slinky plus the bayonet fittings and even a 90 degree elbow and a few doughnuts. Those slinkys can collapse into a very compact space and no need for a 8.5' piece of expensive PVC which deteriorates in the sun. I can remove the small slinky bin from the large box and have all of the needed items to hook up all in one easy to clean bin.

I also carry in the big bin, a broom, a sweeper, extra extension cords, some water hoses and other misc outdoor items. All pretty much very lightweight items.

BUT, you are welcome to do as you wish..

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