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klyross

Minnesnota

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Posted: 12/07/20 04:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Figured to get some good advice here, but I was wrong -
it is MUCH better than that! I have reread the comments
a number of times and am still processing the info.

One thing I will still do, is get a professional 'complete physical'
of the truck from a respected mechanic. Also, all options are still
on the table.

Thanks again.

KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 12/07/20 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will chime in and make this quick. My 2nd Gen Dodge Dually diesel melted down #6 piston at 53k miles because of using after market oil filters.(clogged the oil nozzle at the end of the oil galley) If you ever rebuild...never use anything but the Fleetguard filters. I got lucky. I was able to do a full on rebuild top to bottom for under 4000, I do all my work. Depending on your situation, look at the price of new trucks. A rebuild is way more an option these days as long as you want to go through the process. Doing an engine is a major project but so is a clutch If you have a manual. Don't chump out. If you have it change it out...regardless. Breaking it apart again is not what you want to do a year later.

* This post was edited 12/07/20 07:00pm by KKELLER14K *

jimh425

Western MT

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Posted: 12/07/20 07:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bad oil filters are definitely death to many newer diesel designs. I started specifying Motorcraft when I have someone else change my oil after skipping a time or two changing oil, and seeing that I had been running a “not so good” brand the next time I changed it myself. It seems some mechanics definitely don’t care.


'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Hankook DH-01 225/19.5 Fs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.


ssthrd

Vancouver Island

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Posted: 12/07/20 07:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

klyross wrote:

Figured to get some good advice here, but I was wrong -
it is MUCH better than that! I have reread the comments
a number of times and am still processing the info.

One thing I will still do, is get a professional 'complete physical'
of the truck from a respected mechanic. Also, all options are still
on the table.

Thanks again.


Exactly right IMO. Ya gotta remember that there are 320,000 miles on every nut and bolt in the truck. How much more will you have to spend?

If you just have to run it for a short time before buying something else, maybe check out the local auto wreckers for an engine/tranny with a few less miles on it. Lots of ways to go here--just another option.


2014 Laredo 292RL
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DeeBee, JayBee, and Jed the Black Lab


notsobigjoe

southeast

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Posted: 12/08/20 09:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would replace the motor as I have done in my Chevy. Waaaaaaaayyyyyyy less money.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crate-engines/make/chevrolet/engine-size/7-4l-454

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 12/08/20 12:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IMO, it boils down to first, your finances. You mentioned the option of new or low mile used, so presumably you can afford to upgrade. Then it becomes a matter of the “want” for a new or much newer truck and the power and conveniences afforded by something 10-15 years newer. And the peace of mind that (while anything “can” breakdown) repairs and breakdowns will be of much less of a concern.

Next is the use. Are you looking for something to get you through the short term or will you realistically be doing the same thing for another 300k miles?

3rd gen Dodges are pretty solid trucks IMO. Had an 07 since 2008, until just recently and I didn’t “want” for anything. However the 2016 that replaced it has definite advantages.
If talking just gasser pickups, I don’t see any downsides to a newer truck from any of the big 3.

Cost for the 05?
Mopar crate long block $3500-4000
Install $1500 ish
How old is the trans? Nother $1000-1500
Front end/steering?
320k rear axle? Questionable
Engine components
Other stuff (fan radiator window switches shocks brakes etc)

Make an educated decision on how much other stuff is likely to need repair in say the next 100k. With your miles should have a good idea of the lifespan of the trucks components and what has been replaced when and how long it lasted the first or second time.
Add all that up plus the residual value of your 05 which will be better than most in your area due to no rust.
Then decide how much more a new truck costs vs what you could expect to sink into yours.


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29

patperry2766

Saginaw Texas

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Posted: 12/08/20 10:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What about getting one from a junkyard? Lots of vehicles go because of body damage but a perfectly functional and low mile drive train.

If you like the truck and it wouldn't be too much of a PITA, you could look to swap out for a 6.4


Courage is the feeling you have right before you fully understand the situation

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 12/08/20 10:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^Thats a good idea, but IMO unless one is adept and doing the work themselves, junkyard engines are a considerable risk that you’ll be pulling it again soon.
Sure the junkyard will warranty it for a bit, but the second R&R begins to make it not so good of a deal.
Now a 6.4 would be kick @ss, but not as easy as it sounds with the ECM and other systems. Idk if everything bolts up either or not.

JRscooby

Indepmo

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Posted: 12/09/20 04:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

patperry2766 wrote:

What about getting one from a junkyard? Lots of vehicles go because of body damage but a perfectly functional and low mile drive train.

If you like the truck and it wouldn't be too much of a PITA, you could look to swap out for a 6.4


Back in the day replacing a engine with newer or bigger was a piece of chicken. Now, with all the electronics might be smart to buy the complete wreck to be sure you have all the parts.

Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 12/09/20 07:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:



Back in the day replacing a engine with newer or bigger was a piece of chicken. Now, with all the electronics might be smart to buy the complete wreck to be sure you have all the parts.

That when you change to different engine.
When you are replacing the same short block and transfer all original modules, it is the same thing it was 30 years ago (with more wires).
That also avoids SCN coding newer vehicles require.





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