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 > Tioga propane light blinks green, heater not functioning

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RV Harvey

Los Angeles, CA

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Joined: 12/17/2020

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Posted: 12/17/20 09:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

QC, haha, yes, I could conceivably be in this parking lot for the rest of my days with present luck and stingy mindset. Fortunately I am maybe a half step ahead of you; depending on how you count. I found an RV repair place 3,3 miles from my present parking space aside a Home Depot. I’m not saying I will fork over my credit card to whatever charge they first estimate for me, and I’m hoping some free or nearly free advice might solve things in a pinch (but more likely my wallet will feel some kind of pinch), but given what I’ve gathered through hard knocks and all y’all responses, this is more mysterious and uneasily diagnosable than originally thought. And yeah, if they fix it so I have heat them a new CO alarm is in tall order (can make do with a $50 screw-in alarm such as for houses, yeah?, or do I need special built-in version?). Anyhow, thank you much for taking the time to try and help (and you have helped). Much appreciated and happy holidays and stay safe!

MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 12/18/20 01:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does your 19ft RV have a built in generator ?
That is the primary reason RVs have a CO detector
MORE likely to get CO from generator exhaust than from the LP burning applances,
The pre tell (tale tell) I my 97 Bounder will sound off and shut off the LP, if I leave the 460 engine idling too long while parked, or if I leave the entry door open while warming the engine for an oil change etc..
The CO detector mounted on the wall in the bedroom will go off if the somebody else is running a generator and I have an open window, it's bad and needs replacement,
I tried a brick house one from home depot, but it was a pain, it only worked when 110v was on, shore or generator, it would alarm when powered up, then chirp chirp as a working indicator, the only 12v CO models are marine or RV, $$ have Not found a nice battery operated quiet one, to hang on the bedroom wall


Radiate The Happy
....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s


mr. ed

Amarillo, Texas

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Posted: 12/18/20 07:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now I'm also confused. I thought we were talking about a propane detector, not a carbon monoxide detector. If it's a CO detector, scratch my previous post about replacing a house battery. Sorry for the misconception. I had a senior moment! [emoticon]


Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
Life is fragile. Handle with prayer.

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG (sold)
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition (sold)


MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 12/20/20 02:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

He mentions both devices, the CO detector and the lp control Pre tell, the CO detector does not control anything but misbehaving indicates a problem, I think he has 12v power problems, I think the house batteries are not getting charged , and low voltage is his problem needs to check and clean house battery negative main ground, maybe replace cable, check and make sure the house battery is charging when engine is running,
Don't know why a 19ft RV with out OEM built in generator would have a CO dectector

mr. ed

Amarillo, Texas

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Posted: 12/21/20 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the clarification, Mr. Wizard. In that case, my first post still stands; one defective 12 volt battery of two wired in parallel caused my propane detector issues.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 12/21/20 03:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IF other LP appliances work, then the LP detector and system is functioning. The OEM's stopped installing the 12 volt solenoid LP detectors almost 20 years ago. You remove the 12 volt shut off solenoid at the LP tank and just install a standard LP detector. Doug

RV Harvey

Los Angeles, CA

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Posted: 12/24/20 09:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dear RV friends,
Very sorry for my disappearing act after all the generous help I received. As soon as the problem got resolved, I headed off-grid into the boonies for boon docking.
I am quite embarrassed to give a report on what I’ve learned. It seems there was much less or much different a problem than what I first reported, born out of a bunch of separate ignorances colliding at once.
Firstly, the seller of the RV had told me (and later doubled down) that the propane detector light should always e a solid green. I took that as on authority, and it was even confirmed by google searches whereby people spoke of the continually-flashing-green-light as an indication that it wasn’t receiving a clean signal. This mixed with the fact that the heater was intermittently putting out actual heat (and not just reg’lar air) allowed me to assign the blame to the green light issue. Which in turn I thought must have something to do with the change in house batteries that happened just before I left for my trip. Additionally there was the fact that both the fan and light in the bathroom were not working. AND the fridge/freezer seemed…temperamental/unpredictable/unreliable. All of this I assigned to the blinking green light as source.

Well, here’s what I got wrong. Firstly, I was assured by forum people that the flashing green light is the norm. That was interesting. Okay. But what about, say, the fridge issue? It was suggested that the….fridge fritz phenomena…was caused by the fact that I was turning the propane on and off (suggested by the seller, to save money). In fact when I didn’t turn it on and off, there were no lulls in its effectiveness. And what about the bathroom light/fan? Simple: there is a small separate switch that turns on the bathroom power, a switch the owner must have turned off after his demo, and I never paid mind to it afterwards. Finally, what about the heat? I am still not sure about that one. It was definitely not giving heat (mostly) when I was camped at the cold, cold desert my first two days on the road. Later, when I didn’t actually need it due to warmer climes, the times I tried it, it worked. So maybe there’s still an issue there, maybe it can’t actually cough up heat in certain temps?, which is frustrating and mysterious.

So you see, much of the various inputs from you all have been wrong-headed, due to my initial wrongheadedness regards diagnosis and lack of bird’s eye comprehension. It was a real relief to understand the problem was not as bad and unsolvable as I originally thought. But I feel stupid for wasting you guys' times. I really appreciate the attempts to help though.

Merry Christmas to all!

RV Harvey

Los Angeles, CA

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Posted: 12/24/20 10:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks again!

D.E.Bishop

Eagle Rock, CA

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Posted: 12/25/20 08:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV Harvey, while I did not read this thread and respond to it earlier, I will for the other responders say, "You are welcome. We were all newbys at one time and it takes awhile to learn the jargon and learn how RVs work.

Your heater may be a bit of a mystery to you, it is, however, a really simple appliance. The secrete to understanding one is doing what we men are accused of not doing, reading the manual. Learn how it is supposed to work and then learn how to trouble shoot a problem when it doesn't work.

Something I learned awhile back is, turning the propne on and off to save money is counter productive. Turning the propane off when in storage is very smart. Owning a RV and saving money is an elusive goal for most of us.

So when you have a problem that exceeds your current ability to correct first read the manual and learn the jargon, then call on the community and when asking for help, include the age, make and model of the failed item. Second, be as concise as possible. I just received some very clear and concise information about my room extention hydraulics. I asked a follow up question about rebuilding a valve instead of asking if it was possible to have "someone" rebuild a valve which is what I wanted to know.

I am sending you a PM(personal message) so check your PM notice.

Have a great time RVing and welcome to the forums.


"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
Back to a 2006 Suzi GV
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RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 12/25/20 09:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your CCI Pre-Tell2 7719 propane detector is working as designed. When you turn it on, it goes beep beep beep beep beeps. Once past its start up phase, you may hear the solenoid valve go clunk, then it quits beeping and starts flashing green.
I have the same detector in my 95 Bounder.
For more detailed info, contact Larry & [email protected] CCI went out of business in 2008 and Larry went into the CCI repair business.
The solenoid valve on the propane tank has a 9 volt DC coil. So do not apply 12 volts to it for a prolonged period of time.
It's a shame that CCI went out of business. Their detector will shut off a propane leak even when your coach is unattended. All the other detectors only give a audible when a leak is detected.
Safe-T-Alert offers a replacement system for you CCI system. It's not a efficient as your CCI. You CCI system draws 0.168 amps when on and the Safe-T-Alert system draws 1.0 amps when on.

Also, when the propane has been turned off, most of us light the kitchen stove to clear the air out of the propane lines. Even at that it may take a couple of tries to get the refrigerator, furnace or water heater to light.

Richard

* This post was edited 12/25/20 10:09am by RLS7201 *


95 Bounder 32H F53
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