Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Smartplug Converstion
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Smartplug Converstion

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next
time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 01/09/21 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

You see, we live in Willamette Valley and this past summer I watched hornets walk up the cord and into the cubby hole. So, absolutely, it is time to seal that point of entry. Which means the conversion from nondetachable to detachable power cord is the best solution, which means I must perform a "power inlet conversion" (period).

If we limit our selection to what Camping World offers (RV choices)--then we have these 3 options for 30 amp service:

1. Twistlock (1/8 turn twist type, cira 1938 hospital plug)
OK so the twist lock is the trouble. Why on earth would you upgrade to this great system only to use a twist lock adapter on the end?


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Route 66 Traveler

Western Arizona

Full Member

Joined: 04/20/2017

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 04:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I updated my travel trailer with 50 amp service to the Smartplug system about a month ago. One of the best Mods I have done. The change over adding the new socket to the RV, and the new connector to the power cord was simple and didn’t take very long. It has a much more solid connection than the old twist lock and is very weather resistant. What prompted me to make the change was a cracked twist ring that would not get tight enough to secure the plug in the socket and as a result was getting hot when using high amperage.

Jackathan

Nebraska

New Member

Joined: 02/01/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I may buy a couple of these. Not for the RV though. Cut the off the ends and convert it into a very nice, very inexpensive 10/3 extension cord.

Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

Senior Member

Joined: 08/23/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Route 66 Traveler wrote:

I updated my travel trailer with 50 amp service to the Smartplug system about a month ago. One of the best Mods I have done. The change over adding the new socket to the RV, and the new connector to the power cord was simple and didn’t take very long. It has a much more solid connection than the old twist lock and is very weather resistant. What prompted me to make the change was a cracked twist ring that would not get tight enough to secure the plug in the socket and as a result was getting hot when using high amperage.

I agree without the locking ring the twist lock cord is a liabilty.
However the locking ring can be purchased separately and replaced.
I have replaced my ring. There is no need to replace the entire setup over the ring.


2019 Duramax w/hips,2012 Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
H-head TPMS,BD3,RV safepower,17" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide


Route 66 Traveler

Western Arizona

Full Member

Joined: 04/20/2017

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is true, but it was a good excuse to convince my wife we needed to spend the Big Bucks to buy the Smartplug! I bought it on Black Friday for a greatly reduced price, installed it a week later. I was (am) greatly impressed by it construction and it has such a positive connection between the RV and power cord. My TT is a 2017 that is going on 4 years old and when I took the factory installed socket out of the trailer I was amazed at how sloppy the connections were. Two of the four wires were barely tight, and if either one had come loose it would have caused a serious problem. After I found those loose connections I checked all the connections on my converter, finding one loose there as well. Loose connections result in excessive heat, excessive heat results in melted connections that can end up causing a fire.

deltabravo

Spokane, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 09/08/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/10/21 09:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GrandpaKip wrote:

I have always had the Marinco.


This was my mod a few years ago: Installing a Marinco marine style power inlet for RVs


2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2009 Arctic Fox 811 (bought new 11/9/09)
2018 Timber Ridge 24RLS (bought pre-owned 3/12/20)
2008 Haulmark 8.5x20 toy box trailer

Timmo!

Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 03/10/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/10/21 10:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IMO, the threaded locking ring problem with the STS twistlock plugs is the result of operator error. As we all know, overtime nonmetalic devices (plastic, pvc, vinyl, etc--all the things we have in our RVs) gradually gain resistance overtime and require a good cleaning and an occasional lube (spray silicone) to function properlty. The locking ring issues do not persuade me either way, rather it is all about safety (which includes avoiding potential future calamities).

If all the naysayers (it is not standard, not NEMA, not RV, no UL label on package...) take a breath for a moment and use our noggin, I think smarter heads can agree the problem with almost all plug failures are the result of one or both of the following:

1. Bad connection between the wire and the wired device.
2. Corrosion on the metal blades or contacts.

When it comes to terminal connection for plugs/receptacles, there are several varieties: Most common is the direct screw connection (wrap/loop wire clockwise behind the screw and tighten), and the less common terminal screw with lug (slip wire into locking lug and tighten terminal screw).

Can we agree the best option for 30/50 amp connection is terminal screw with lug? Why? Could it be the locking lugs provide greater amount of metal surface contact between wire and terminal.

OK, many of the circa 1938 twistlock plugs and all Smartplugs employ terminal screws with lug connection. So if I select the correct twistlock plug (with locking lugs), then Smartplug holds zero advantage. Both are winners on this test.

Now, we come to the metal blades of the two plugs. Which has greater metal surface contact?

The circa 1938 twistlock plug has tiny dimples to make electrical contact with a total surface area of 6.63 sq mm. Back of pin contact 1.3mm x 2.7mm = 3.51 sq mm, front of pin contact 1.3mm x 2.4mm = 3.12 sq mm.

Smartplug has a larger total contact area of 190.4 sq mm. Back of pin contact 16.4mm X 8.5mm = 139.4 sq mm, front of pin contact 6mm X 8.5mm = 51 sq mm.

Ok, 30 amp Smartplug has just over 183 sq mm greater surface area compared to circa 1938 twistlock, which I calculate to be about 27 times greater surface area (not 20 times).

So, now you have it; to reduce the chance of having bad blade contact and bad wiring, shouldn't one select the device having terminal screws with locking lugs and blades that have adequate metal surface to make electrical contact? Or should we be sheeple, and do what the other guy does and ignore progress (circa 2008 vs circa 1938).

LOL, it is not a solution in search of a problem--rather a multifaceted problem in search of a simple, single solution. I don't want bugs or critters walking up the power cord and nesting inside my TT (replace nondetachable cord with detachable cord). I don't want problems others are experiencing, burned out twistlock 30 amp plugs on their detachable cords (replace power inlet with Smartplug style).


(Formerly known as SPRey)
Tim & Sue
Hershey (Sheltie)
2005 F150 4x4 Lariat 5.4L 3.73 Please buy a Hybrid...I need your gas for my 35.7 gallon tank!
2000 Nash 19B...comfortably pimped with a real Queen Size Bed


time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 01/10/21 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

Add a simple pigtail RV plug (NEMA TT 30P) to STS twistlock (NEMA L5 30R) from HomeDepot ($26.60) and for about $40, one has an operational BRAND NEW cordset (RV to Smartplug).

[image]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Conntek-TT-3........or-to-RV-Pigtail-Adapter-14355/309254425


Why finish the project with a twist lock adapter if this is one of the weak points?

Timmo!

Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 03/10/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/10/21 11:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:


Why finish the project with a twist lock adapter if this is one of the weak points?


Exactly my thoughts last night, since the money end is the Smartplug plug (assuming the cordset from Walmart is delivered--instead of masks), then the plan is to replace the twistlock end with a RV plug (with terminal screws with locking lugs).

If the cordset is really a box of masks, then the plan is to purchase a new RV power cord with molded plug and Smartplug plug separately. After talking to my buddy in Newport Beach last night (he's a big Duffy Boat fan and putts around Lido) he agreed twistlock plugs should be avoided when possible. LOL, he said Smartplugs were an option when he bought his boat a few years ago, which he docks at home.

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 07/16/2003

View Profile



Posted: 01/12/21 05:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

IMO, the threaded locking ring problem with the STS twistlock plugs is the result of operator error. As we all know, overtime nonmetalic devices (plastic, pvc, vinyl, etc--all the things we have in our RVs) gradually gain resistance overtime and require a good cleaning and an occasional lube (spray silicone) to function properlty. The locking ring issues do not persuade me either way, rather it is all about safety (which includes avoiding potential future calamities).

If all the naysayers (it is not standard, not NEMA, not RV, no UL label on package...) take a breath for a moment and use our noggin, I think smarter heads can agree the problem with almost all plug failures are the result of one or both of the following:

1. Bad connection between the wire and the wired device.
2. Corrosion on the metal blades or contacts.

When it comes to terminal connection for plugs/receptacles, there are several varieties: Most common is the direct screw connection (wrap/loop wire clockwise behind the screw and tighten), and the less common terminal screw with lug (slip wire into locking lug and tighten terminal screw).

Can we agree the best option for 30/50 amp connection is terminal screw with lug? Why? Could it be the locking lugs provide greater amount of metal surface contact between wire and terminal.

OK, many of the circa 1938 twistlock plugs and all Smartplugs employ terminal screws with lug connection. So if I select the correct twistlock plug (with locking lugs), then Smartplug holds zero advantage. Both are winners on this test.

Now, we come to the metal blades of the two plugs. Which has greater metal surface contact?

The circa 1938 twistlock plug has tiny dimples to make electrical contact with a total surface area of 6.63 sq mm. Back of pin contact 1.3mm x 2.7mm = 3.51 sq mm, front of pin contact 1.3mm x 2.4mm = 3.12 sq mm.

Smartplug has a larger total contact area of 190.4 sq mm. Back of pin contact 16.4mm X 8.5mm = 139.4 sq mm, front of pin contact 6mm X 8.5mm = 51 sq mm.

Ok, 30 amp Smartplug has just over 183 sq mm greater surface area compared to circa 1938 twistlock, which I calculate to be about 27 times greater surface area (not 20 times).

So, now you have it; to reduce the chance of having bad blade contact and bad wiring, shouldn't one select the device having terminal screws with locking lugs and blades that have adequate metal surface to make electrical contact? Or should we be sheeple, and do what the other guy does and ignore progress (circa 2008 vs circa 1938).

LOL, it is not a solution in search of a problem--rather a multifaceted problem in search of a simple, single solution. I don't want bugs or critters walking up the power cord and nesting inside my TT (replace nondetachable cord with detachable cord). I don't want problems others are experiencing, burned out twistlock 30 amp plugs on their detachable cords (replace power inlet with Smartplug style).


Almost sounds like your trying to convince your self. surface area is great but there becomes a point where you have enough and then its just redundant. like I said, get rid of that non detachable cord they do suck and not only for the bugs that can get in but just for the way they are stored. I have had to undo some good knots in my time.... hopefully you get your order figured out..

Steve


2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Smartplug Converstion
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.