โJan-11-2021 09:36 AM
โJan-19-2021 11:08 AM
โJan-16-2021 11:19 AM
Razorback wrote:
May want to check the water heater thermostat. If the low temperature thermostat (or both low and high) is stuck the water may be heating higher than it should causing excessive pressure.
โJan-16-2021 08:40 AM
โJan-16-2021 06:51 AM
โJan-14-2021 01:35 PM
time2roll wrote:
80 psi is the max pressure according to plumbing code. More like 50 to 65 psi is normal. The T&P valve at 125psi is there to prevent tank rupture not to regulate pressure to code. The air bubble in the water heater is not reliable and one more maintenance headache. The accumulator can take the place of the tank air bubble on a permanent basis.
Yes the valve or a fitting could be weak. The spike in pressure can still exist and exasperate the issue.
Not sure why such resistance to the accumulator as a permanent solution.
So who uses 100+ psi to blow out the water when winterizing?
โJan-14-2021 01:33 PM
โJan-14-2021 12:40 PM
โJan-14-2021 10:32 AM
Old-Biscuit wrote:
T&P on RV water heater will weep at 125 psi
Not many RV MFGs install a check valve on INLET
And not many have issues with T&P weeping but it does occur
Some can experience weeping EVEN with an air pocket....that is where an accumulator tank can help
** most install accumulator tanks to help with pump cycling during low demand & being able to turn pump off at night and still be able to flush the toilet
But they will also help control system pressures
My WH Tank does NOT have ANY check valves..has 3 shutoff valves
And even w/o check valves I have never had T&P weep except when air pocket was lost.
I am Yu wrote:
I'm running on internal water (not city water). I don't leave the water heater turned on all the time (too wasteful to do so) and when I turn it on it raises the pressure in the whole plumbing system way too high, and I get water leaking from the toilet onto the bathroom floor. The only way I've found to deal with this is to shut off the pump and briefly open a faucet every 10 minutes to relieve the pressure, until the heater gets hot and the pressure stabilizes, which gets pretty annoying.
There is a pressure relief valve on the water heater, but apparently it's only intended to protect the heater tank, and opens at too high a pressure to do anything for the plastic plumbing.
Is there some kind of relief valve that opens at a lower pressure, which I could install somewhere in the system and have it drain overboard?
โJan-13-2021 08:05 PM
โJan-13-2021 06:57 AM
Lynnmor wrote:Gdetrailer wrote:Lynnmor wrote:mobeewan wrote:
Accumulator tanks are now required at the hot water outlet pipe of water heaters on residential construction and when replacing WHs in existing homes.
I believe that is local codes, it wouldn't make sense for those on a well with an open system that has no check valve after the tank.
A "properly" installed water well WILL have a check valve at the pump.
Never want water to flow back into your well.
My well driller put a check valve above the submersible pump down the well.. I have an additional check valve between the pressure tank and well head for good measure.
Correct, the check valve(s) is on the PUMP side of the tank, not on the HOUSE side. The tank has the air pocket to keep pressures from going too high. What I said before is correct.
โJan-13-2021 03:32 AM
Gdetrailer wrote:Lynnmor wrote:mobeewan wrote:
Accumulator tanks are now required at the hot water outlet pipe of water heaters on residential construction and when replacing WHs in existing homes.
I believe that is local codes, it wouldn't make sense for those on a well with an open system that has no check valve after the tank.
A "properly" installed water well WILL have a check valve at the pump.
Never want water to flow back into your well.
My well driller put a check valve above the submersible pump down the well.. I have an additional check valve between the pressure tank and well head for good measure.
โJan-12-2021 01:35 PM
Lynnmor wrote:mobeewan wrote:
Accumulator tanks are now required at the hot water outlet pipe of water heaters on residential construction and when replacing WHs in existing homes.
I believe that is local codes, it wouldn't make sense for those on a well with an open system that has no check valve after the tank.
โJan-12-2021 01:23 PM
mobeewan wrote:Yes especially in hill country where city pressure is 150+ and the home will have a pressure reducing regulator that effectively creates a closed system. The days of the city maintaining 50 psi and the meter flows both ways does not apply to everything anymore.
Accumulator tanks are now required at the hot water outlet pipe of water heaters on residential construction and when replacing WHs in existing homes. This is to counter the expansion of heated water in the WH and hot water lines and prevent unnecessary cycling of the WH relief valves.
โJan-12-2021 01:13 PM
mobeewan wrote:
Accumulator tanks are now required at the hot water outlet pipe of water heaters on residential construction and when replacing WHs in existing homes.