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replacing Brake Pads

machunt
Explorer
Explorer
Replacing Brake pads on a 2013 chevy 3500 dually. Whats the best brake pads for 3500 chevy. FRONT. Just wondering because of the towing.
48 REPLIES 48

whjco
Explorer
Explorer
I've used a number of different brake pads over the years and I've had the best performance from Carquest OEM Spec. pads.
Bill J., Lexington, KY
2006 Starcraft 2500RKS 25' Travel Trailer
2015 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.7 Cummins.

CharlesinGA
Explorer
Explorer
whjco wrote:
I had an Excursion and a 2000 Econoline E350. Both had issues with the inner lining of the flex hoses sluffing off and causing a restriction in the hose that kept the calipers from fully retracting.


I experienced this in the 1980's on my 1970 Mustang. Drum brakes and one on the front was not working well, finally removed the hose from the wheel cylinder and push hard on the pedal and only a couple of drops would work their way thru.

More recently the problems I experience is the phenolic pistons on calipers gumming up and seizing up when you step on a hot brake. I have had it happen twice on my old Ford Ranger, and a co-worker had it happen twice on his '04 RAM 3500 DRW, both of his were rear calipers and not hot before they started locking up. First was one side, then later the other.

Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

CharlesinGA
Explorer
Explorer
I'm not reading thru 5 pages of comments,..................

https://akebonobrakes.com/

OEM supplier to GM. Make very good quality products. NAPA sells them, may have to order them in.

Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
propchef wrote:
I would use something like this: https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Hawk&model=HP+SuperDuty+brake+pads&group=HP+SuperDuty+brake+pads&brand=Hawk&cat=Pads

Hawk makes a variety of pads for different circumstances. Ceramic-based pads are GREAT, but only when hot and they make a racket. Cheaper pads (like the Akebono OEM replacements) will work fine but tend to put out a lot of dust.

Here's a great comparison of inexpensive v. OE and upper-end pads. https://jalopnik.com/heres-the-difference-between-cheap-and-expensive-brake-1839775565


I've used Akebono ceramic pads as a replacement on multiple european cars to get rid of the black dust problem and with the Akebono pads there is almost no dust, and absolutely no squeal or any other noise. Brake performance even under heavy driving was by "seat of the pants" pretty much the same as original pads.
Unlike some others I tried they don't seem to give up life or performance compared to OEM pads.

I wouldn't list the akebono's as inexpensive, but they aren't as expensive as some.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
ktmrfs wrote:
factory or Akebono. Akebono is an OEM supplier to GM.

I either run OEM pads, or if they have to much black dust (european) I run Akebono pads.


Interesting. I haven't had enough seat time in newer Fords trucks, but Ram still puts out super dust brake pads (just canned them on our new to us 2016, wheels wouldn't stay clean for 2 days).
The GM OE truck setups are very low dust, knew they were ceramics. Service life seemed decent. Orig pads on my 2017 Silverado work truck lasted about 77k miles, which is spectacular considering I drive it like a rental and a fair amount of "overloaded" towing in the mountains for 2 summers.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
ferndaleflyer wrote:
I don't tow a camper but I do tow a 32ft enclosed car trailer with a DRW F350. Truck and trailer weigh on CAT scales 22,000lbs and has had the brakes all around changed twice in 160,000+ miles. Roters never turned or changed and always done at the dealer I guess with Ford parts. It is due for new ones now. Just saying don't over think this.


Post of the week!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

ksss
Explorer
Explorer
I had the Hawk Super Duty on a 06 3500 DRW. Mine never made noise when hot. Really good pads and we much better than the OEM pads were.
2020 Chevy 3500 CC 4X4 DRW D/A
2013 Fuzion 342
2011 RZR Desert Tan
2012 Sea Doo GTX 155
2018 Chevy 3500HD CC LB SRW 4X4 D/A
2015 Chevy Camaro ZL1

propchef
Explorer
Explorer
I would use something like this: https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Hawk&model=HP+SuperDuty+brake+pads&group=HP+SuperDuty+brake+pads&brand=Hawk&cat=Pads

Hawk makes a variety of pads for different circumstances. Ceramic-based pads are GREAT, but only when hot and they make a racket. Cheaper pads (like the Akebono OEM replacements) will work fine but tend to put out a lot of dust.

Here's a great comparison of inexpensive v. OE and upper-end pads. https://jalopnik.com/heres-the-difference-between-cheap-and-expensive-brake-1839775565

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
factory or Akebono. Akebono is an OEM supplier to GM.

I either run OEM pads, or if they have to much black dust (european) I run Akebono pads.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

ferndaleflyer
Explorer III
Explorer III
I don't tow a camper but I do tow a 32ft enclosed car trailer with a DRW F350. Truck and trailer weigh on CAT scales 22,000lbs and has had the brakes all around changed twice in 160,000+ miles. Roters never turned or changed and always done at the dealer I guess with Ford parts. It is due for new ones now. Just saying don't over think this.

propchef
Explorer
Explorer
Grit dog wrote:
otrfun wrote:
Back in the day, I never did anything to the brakes except swap out pads when I was absolutely forced to. Do things differently now.

In addition to a total flush every 3-5 years, we also drain and fill the entire contents of the brake reservoir on our Ram Cummins once a year using the vacuum line on our brake bleeder. Literally takes less than 3 min. Both the larger containers of brake fluid and the brake reservoir on our Ram hold exactly 32 oz., so no waste. When we started doing these D&F's, I did it as long-term preventative maintenance, with no expectations it would provide any noticeable improvement in braking performance. Was pleasantly surprised to find the brakes became distinctly more firm after every D&F.


I believe there's a bit of placebo effect going on here.
Not that I disagree with the merits of periodic brake fluid flush/change, the fluid would have to be really bad to have a noticeable difference in feel.


As a lifelong sports car owner and DIYer, the brake flush is a real thing, especially when the brakes are under stress like towing or on a track. Brake fluid attracts and keeps moisture and can cause a soft pedal and, in extreme cases, corrosion in the lines. It can also overheat and boil.

I flushed mine in the M3 every 5 years as a matter of regular maintenance. The choice of pads can also make a HUGE difference.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
otrfun wrote:


If I hadn't done this 3-4 times with the same results, I'd be right there with you saying it was probably a placebo effect. However, the same thing happens every time. I can honestly say I never anticipate an improvement, but as soon as I use the brakes a few times I'm reminded there is one.


I'll try to remember to do a side by side comparison. I haven't noticed this effect.
I'm also a big fan of the lazy man's brake flush! Once a vehicle is about 5 years old or so, I'll do the empty/replace master cyl fluid method periodically. Not as complete as an actual flush, understood.
The new fluid does mix (over a period of time) with the old fluid. It's just too easy and quick to not do a gradual replacement. (unless there's cause to do some serious brake work, then flush and bleed isn't alot more onerous.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
Grit dog wrote:
otrfun wrote:
Back in the day, I never did anything to the brakes except swap out pads when I was absolutely forced to. Do things differently now.

In addition to a total flush every 3-5 years, we also drain and fill the entire contents of the brake reservoir on our Ram Cummins once a year using the vacuum line on our brake bleeder. Literally takes less than 3 min. Both the larger containers of brake fluid and the brake reservoir on our Ram hold exactly 32 oz., so no waste. When we started doing these D&F's, I did it as long-term preventative maintenance, with no expectations it would provide any noticeable improvement in braking performance. Was pleasantly surprised to find the brakes became distinctly more firm after every D&F.
I believe there's a bit of placebo effect going on here.
Not that I disagree with the merits of periodic brake fluid flush/change, the fluid would have to be really bad to have a noticeable difference in feel.
As I mentioned, I had no expectations it would do anything except be a good, long-term ROI for 3 min. of my time.

If I hadn't done this 3-4 times with the same results, I'd be right there with you saying it was probably a placebo effect. However, the same thing happens every time. I can honestly say I never anticipate an improvement, but as soon as I use the brakes a few times I'm reminded there is one.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
otrfun wrote:
Back in the day, I never did anything to the brakes except swap out pads when I was absolutely forced to. Do things differently now.

In addition to a total flush every 3-5 years, we also drain and fill the entire contents of the brake reservoir on our Ram Cummins once a year using the vacuum line on our brake bleeder. Literally takes less than 3 min. Both the larger containers of brake fluid and the brake reservoir on our Ram hold exactly 32 oz., so no waste. When we started doing these D&F's, I did it as long-term preventative maintenance, with no expectations it would provide any noticeable improvement in braking performance. Was pleasantly surprised to find the brakes became distinctly more firm after every D&F.


I believe there's a bit of placebo effect going on here.
Not that I disagree with the merits of periodic brake fluid flush/change, the fluid would have to be really bad to have a noticeable difference in feel.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold