time2roll
Southern California
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specta wrote:BobsYourUncle wrote:
14 1/2 years and 412,924K on the odometer and it's never been changed. Kind of makes you wonder just how important it is to flush it. Brake fluid with moisture contamination can work fine... until it doesn't.
Same for coolant hoses, belts, battery, fuel filter, etc.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
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dodge guy
Bartlett IL
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specta wrote:BobsYourUncle wrote:
14 1/2 years and 412,924K on the odometer and it's never been changed.
Kind of makes you wonder just how important it is to flush it.
Very important! Bobs a great guy, but I would not recommend not doing it if you are doing brakes. As long as the bleeders aren’t frozen it’s an extra 15 minute job.
I just flushed the fluid on my 12 Motor home. Has 40k on it.
An engine fails you stop moving, a trans fails you stop moving. Brakes fail you can’t stop moving fast enough!!!!!
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specta
utah
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"IF" it gets contaminated.
That's something that I have personally never experienced.
While working in the automotive field the only time I saw brake fluid that was contaminated was when someone added something to the master cylinder other than what was recommended by the manufacture.
I'm not saying don't flush it, I just don't see it as a problem if you don't.
Kenny
2011 Chevy 2500 HD 6.0L 4wd
1976 Ford F-250 6.4L 4wd
1995 Lance 945 Onan QG 2500 LP
Regular cab. The best looking trucks.
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BobsYourUncle
Calgary Alberta Canada
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dodge guy wrote:specta wrote:BobsYourUncle wrote:
14 1/2 years and 412,924K on the odometer and it's never been changed.
Kind of makes you wonder just how important it is to flush it.
Very important! Bobs a great guy, but I would not recommend not doing it if you are doing brakes. As long as the bleeders aren’t frozen it’s an extra 15 minute job.
I just flushed the fluid on my 12 Motor home. Has 40k on it.
An engine fails you stop moving, a trans fails you stop moving. Brakes fail you can’t stop moving fast enough!!!!!
A great guy? Shucks, thanks! ![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
But Dodge Guy is right on with this one.
I am at fault for not flushing my brake fluid. It IS important! I know I should have done it years ago, but somehow never got the job done.
Some of it has been changed though with a few brake jobs and I think at least one set of calipers.
Gotta wonder what the inside of the master cylinder looks like....![[emoticon]](https://forums.goodsamclub.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
Yeah, I really need to get that done. Temperature swings here from minus 30s to plus 30s C.
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whjco
Lexington, KY
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specta wrote:Dave H M wrote:I just changed the front pads on the F250. Bellied right up to the Ford parts counter with a fat wallet.
Only complaint is that they did not provide a decal for that money.
A few years ago my daughter's husband had new brakes put on their Excursion, he told them he wanted the best pads they had - $450 for just the front pads. Two new Ford rotors plus labor on top of the $450.
They squealed like a pig all the time so they took it to an independent after several trips back to the dealer and had less expensive pads installed, squeal gone.
I had an Excursion and a 2000 Econoline E350. Both had issues with the inner lining of the flex hoses sluffing off and causing a restriction in the hose that kept the calipers from fully retracting. I'd recommend that they replace the flex hoses on that Excursion. Also, keep a close eye on flex section of the brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the antilock unit on the frame. I had to make a panic stop and the flex portion of the brake line blew out and I had a total loss of brakes. I had to cut quickly to miss the car that had stopped suddenly in front of me and then I ran through a red light. Thankfully the cross traffic saw that I was in trouble and waited for me to get through the intersection. I was pulling my 24' car trailer and was able to use the trailer brake to get stopped.
Bill J., Lexington, KY
2006 Starcraft 2500RKS 25' Travel Trailer
2015 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.7 Cummins.
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Dave H M
IL
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UUUUHHH whico, I said I bought the Motorcraft pads at ford and changed them mysef. They work like new and have no pig noises in them.
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time2roll
Southern California
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Years ago I was told by the dealer the Motocraft are not exactly the same as the original pads. Had to special order the originals and they definitely lasted longer. Don't recall a big difference in braking power so must have been close on that regard.
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specta
utah
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whjco wrote:
I had an Excursion and a 2000 Econoline E350. Both had issues with the inner lining of the flex hoses sluffing off and causing a restriction in the hose that kept the calipers from fully retracting. I'd recommend that they replace the flex hoses on that Excursion. Also, keep a close eye on flex section of the brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the antilock unit on the frame. I had to make a panic stop and the flex portion of the brake line blew out and I had a total loss of brakes. I had to cut quickly to miss the car that had stopped suddenly in front of me and then I ran through a red light. Thankfully the cross traffic saw that I was in trouble and waited for me to get through the intersection. I was pulling my 24' car trailer and was able to use the trailer brake to get stopped.
Those $450 pads were extremely hard.
They never had a problem after they replaced them with a different pad made of different material.
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fj12ryder
Platte City, MO
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specta wrote:"IF" it gets contaminated.
That's something that I have personally never experienced.
While working in the automotive field the only time I saw brake fluid that was contaminated was when someone added something to the master cylinder other than what was recommended by the manufacture.
I'm not saying don't flush it, I just don't see it as a problem if you don't. Pull the cover off the master cylinder reservoir, now compare that brake fluid to new fluid. The reason it's a different color and murky is due to contamination.
Howard and Peggy
"Don't Panic"
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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IMO keeping brake fluid relatively fresh has as much or more to do with maximizing brake system component life as it does stopping power.
Being somewhat lazy when it comes to that, I’ve never straight bled all the old fluid out which is the best method. But I use the replacement method. When fluid looks pretty dirty, I’ll replace the fluid in the master cyl. Several times over the course of weeks or months. The new mixes with the old after driving for a while, but is a bit cleaner. After several replacements it’s not perfect, but better. Same concept as drain and fill on a transmission vs fluid replacement method.
But If you have a couple hours to kill, bleeding it out is the best way.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29
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