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TR: Utah, parks, friends and a few weeks with my wife

Reality_Check
Nomad II
Nomad II
Wife and I had a decent year despite the stupid stuff going on. Had several trips, this one this past fall. I had an undetermined amount of time available in front of us, waiting on a commitment from a city utility for a job we were on. At the time, we couldnโ€™t get a start time for their portion of the next stage of workโ€ฆ Anyhow, we knew we had 2, 3, maybe even 5 or 6 weeks available. So we left.

Headed to an open State. We have traveled enough this year to know that hanging around a bunch of people whoโ€™s version of reality was different than ours, was not fun. So, no big cities, and limited time in National Parks (tend to draw city folks whoโ€™ve been locked up for far too long).

Loaded up the camper and trailer. Stuffed with fish, steaks, produce and water. Took only one motorcycle..herโ€™s had just hit the shop. Headed south via Ontario, eastern Oregon and to the Salt flats. Camping was on the side of the road..or wherever.



Hit an โ€˜openโ€™ museum in Winnemucca. It was nice to find something not shut down just because. I have a dozen stories about how stupid some of this is, the complete lack of common sense at parks, museums, points of interest. LOL, last summer we were camping outside of Crater Lake in a Sno Park; the bathrooms were shut due to Covid and safety because of cleaning. And then they had sani cans delivered instead. Oh yea, that makes senseโ€ฆ

West of Elko..nice camp spot. How we so often do, take a less traveled road and find something acceptable and park. After darkness fell, we had exactly two vehicles pass by the rest of the night. And the price was right;



Quick drive to the flats. Arrived to find that speed week, the โ€œWorld Finalsโ€ was in progress. We of course bought our ticket and drove out. Who would have thought it was so blindlingly bright? Lol, sunglasses and sun screen under your chin. Watched a couple of 300mph passes while we were there. Spent several hours walking around, getting the wife wedged into a motorcycle rocketโ€ฆshe wasnโ€™t to keen on the seat and confined quarters. Oh well, so much for her speed career.







A relaxed day we had for sure, and then we headed up the hill from the flats and found a gravel pit to park in for the night. Just beautiful, warm, and quiet.



I had noticed that the engine temperature was fluctuating more than normal, so we made the call to head towards a dealer and get the truck looked at. I just couldnโ€™t figure out what was going on. We really werenโ€™t that heavy (26k total) and the outside temps were not high..just didnโ€™t make sense to me. I found a small county campground outside of Grantsville (west of Salt Lake area). We dropped the camper and took the truck in the next day. Left it and toured on the bike.

Saw a museum on the way in and swung back to look. Hours of operation: Friday and Saturday, 11-4, or something similar. Doors were locked. Hmmmm, I thought as I checked my watch, knowing it was Friday. A phone call was made. LOL, guy answers, says โ€œyep, itโ€™s open, Iโ€™m just not there. Go to โ€˜this doorโ€™ over there and go on inโ€. Love this part of our country. Spent a few hours looking around, reading, the entire place to ourselves, and eventually meeting the man in charge and talking. Great place.



Turns out the coolant cap was not holding pressure. Needs to hold 22psi I believe, and ours was down at 12-14. Picked up the truck, paid my $80 bill and headed to the camp site. Which by the way, has quiet hours from 10pm -6am, no gennyโ€™s. But, when in Rome.. much to our amusement, the campground filled up completely with locals, every spot filled. This was not a spread out campground, this was 4 circles and parking pads around each one, probably 32 + spots in a 2 acre spot. Iโ€™m pretty sure weโ€™re the only ones that didnโ€™t run our genny all night. It was clearly an acceptable practice. Kinda like sleeping at an interstate rest spot..only louder.

Headed south, ended up staying with some new friends in Goshen..thatโ€™s a story by itself for sure! Open bar in that neighborhood garage for sureโ€ฆ Rode the bike into Nebo Canyon. Wow, absolutely beautiful.



There is dry camping all over the route. Goes up to about 9000 ft, lots of horse areas, hiking trails and awesome views and colors (fallโ€ฆgreat time to travel). We returned the next day and went on a couple of hikes. File the area under a place to return to for further exploration and time to sit.





Headed south towards Zion, as the wife had never been there. A few good camp spots along the way and outside of the park..







And of course, Zion. Beautiful as always and crowded. A couple of hikes on regular trails, and then a โ€œhad enough of the crowds, letโ€™s do the โ€˜3 miles, turn leftโ€™ planโ€. Works everytime:









We donโ€™t fit through the tunnel, about 2 feet to long or something. So we pulled in each day to the main parking, unloaded the bike and went about out business. Itโ€™s a better plan for sure, as parking is never an issue with the bike. The only part that was not bad or good, when it was time to head out, we had to drop south to go around the park (into AZ, then back north). If you were short on time, it would matter.

After coming up through Kanab, we found a great spot right off the hwy at the junction to the east entrance of Zion. Something about it made it really fun. The group next to us perhaps, the view and proximity to the junction and facilities (had a dump there at the gas station too), and the price. BLM and us get along great.







We meandered up to Bryce, where we met up with my BIL and his wife who were coming back from eastern Wyoming. Red Canyon deserved more time. The colors were so vibrant, similar to the drastic effects at Zion. We would have parked and stayed, but had agreed to meet.



'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!
14 REPLIES 14

alexleblanc
Explorer
Explorer
great trip report, i miss the southwest big time, its the last place i travelled to before all of this mess started and we've been stuck home(ish).

Loved the Sedona area and all of the hiking so your trip really seemed spot on for my wife and i.
TV - 2017 F350 CCSB SRW Platinum 6.7 + 5er - 2021 Grand Design Reflection 311 BHS + B&W Companion
On Order - 2022 F350 CCSB SRW Platinum 6.7

ORbiker
Explorer
Explorer
Nice report.
We camp thru much of 2020. There was a less people in Central and Eastern Oregon.

We retire next year and hope to spend a month or 2 in UT and then MT and then WY and then where ever we want.

Safe travels, KEN
Backpacker and tent camper all my life. Motorcycle trips with a tent too 1978 to Present. 2016 Grand Design 380TH as of 10-29-2015. Now a New 2018 374TH-R Solitude as of 3-16-19. 10-19-18-traded truck for a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie Crew Cab 4x4 Long Box.

ticki2
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for taking the time to post your TR , it seems to have become a lost art of late . I envy you folks out west for how much you have available .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

GoinThisAway
Explorer
Explorer
A nice trip report! Seems we don't have as many of them posted since the Photobucket difficulties a number of years ago. I made a trip with my parents 30 years ago in the opposite direction of yours, going from Yellowstone NP down to Grand Canyon NP. Moab was a nice little town back then. We took a ferry across Lake Powell at Bullfrog and drove up the dirt road through Capitol Reef. It was washboardy but not as bad as the one you describe. Thanks for jump starting some good memories.
2008 Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4
2008 Bigfoot 25C10.4
Torklift/Fastguns/Hellwig/StableLoads

Reality_Check
Nomad II
Nomad II
Thanks for the comments folks. It was a really great time with the wife.

notsobigjoe wrote:
Great report, I was wondering from a novice point of view as to what kind of animals do you run into during the day and night out there in the middle of nowhere? I'm from the North east and live in central Florida now. Very different type of wild animals in both places. Just curious, Thanks


^^^^ lol, funniest thing for sure was an early morning hike in Zion..coming down the hill and meeting the crowds coming up. Came around a bend to see a whole pile of people stopped and taking pictures. Had to actually 'excuse' are selves as we wandered past. Wasn't until I saw what they were looking at till I burst out laughing. Lady looked at me quizzically and I replied "they're like rodents in my back yard". It was a deer..

Reference your question, we don't run into much that is concerning. Different parts of the states, snakes, different bugs, etc. I personally think you have more weird and scary stuff in the south, than we do. Bears, felines, canines, etc, are more scared of us than we are of them for the most part. Wolves are probably my biggest hesitation (most thought of) but then, don't think about them much either. I suppose the cows are the biggest thing; lots of free range our here. We can be 15 miles off the hwy and a group of cows will come wandering by. On another serious note, I wouldn't travel without being armed. It's not for the four legged creatures...but in the end, like on hikes, it does serve as a slight equalizer if the wrong situation with an animal came up. We live in a great country...like to see it stay that way. I'd hate to be limited to what I could comfortably see because of a lack of confidence in defending my wife or I based on some office jockey deciding to remove a Right. Something for all to consider.. Cheers
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!

SteveAE
Explorer
Explorer
Great trip report. Thanks for sharing.

notsobigjoe
Nomad III
Nomad III
Great report, I was wondering from a novice point of view as to what kind of animals do you run into during the day and night out there in the middle of nowhere? I'm from the North east and live in central Florida now. Very different type of wild animals in both places. Just curious, Thanks

ReneeG
Explorer
Explorer
Great trip report! We've done most of that, but some in separate trips and not that museum. Happened upon the land speed trials by accident one year while boondocking at the flats. We were invited to join one crew for dinner. It was a great experience.
2011 Bighorn 3055RL, 2011 F350 DRW 6.7L 4x4 Diesel Lariat and Hensley TrailerSaver BD3, 1992 Jeep ZJ and 1978 Coleman Concord Pop-Up for remote camping
Dave & Renee plus (Champ, Molly, Paris, Missy, and Maggie in spirit), Mica, Mabel, and Melton

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
Iโ€™m glad you had a great trip. It wonโ€™t be long until itโ€™s Spring again. Nice photos.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

hotjag1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm guessing you live in WA...haha. Awesome vacation. We have been to several of the places you traveled and enjoyed them too. We agreed that Moab, Zion, and Jackson have gotten too crowded for us.

We would have loved being at the Salt Flats during Speed week. You really lucked out on that!
Thanks for the great pics!
hotjag1
2003 40' Allegro Bus, 3 slides, 400hp 8.9 liter ISL Cummins

2000 24' Dynamax Isata

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dave (the OP) ... a nice post and great photos!!

We've beening RVing for around 40 years - mostly in the Western U.S. - and I thoroughly get what you're hinting at regarding "things not being the same" anymore when trying to get away from it all on trips. There's just too many people out and about in too many vehicles using too much Internet telling them where to go.

We specifically try to get way out there in our small Class C MH - usually because we're rockhounds looking for rocks. Our worst yet was 25 miles each way traveling to/from a remote spot in the Oregon outback on extreme wash-board traveling 7-10 MPH. But was it ever spectacular camping out there under the stars with a shower, air conditioning, a furnace, cold drinks, a BBQ grill, and queen beds!
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

specta
Explorer
Explorer
Awesome vacation, awesome pictures and awesome story.

Did I miss where the fire truck museum was??
Kenny
1996 Jayco 376FB Eagle Series TT
1997 Jayco 246FB Eagle Series TT
1976 Ford F-250 4wd Mercury Marauder 410 - 4V
Regular cabs. The best looking trucks.

BradW
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great trip. You mentioned the crowds at Zion. We were there in October two years ago. It was so crowded that we never found a single place to park. It was bad.
Wake Up America
2019 Lance 1062 and 2018 F-350 CC PSD 4X4 DRW
Tembrens, Rear Roadmaster Sway Bar, Torklift 48" Extention and 30K Superhitch
Our New Lance 1062 Truck Camper Unloading at Dealer Photos

Reality_Check
Nomad II
Nomad II
Two nights at an equestrian campground, where family and the neighbors joined us for some great evenings at the campfire. We didnโ€™t have horses, but the neighbors were accepting anyhowโ€ฆlol. Exchanged numbers. Second group of the trip that weโ€™ll make efforts to keep in touch with.



Moved on towards Escalante and Boulder. Turn right and went looking for a camp spot. Found it!







What a fantastic evening and morning. Views, quiet and good company.
Headed east, enjoying a fairly quiet road. Itโ€™s paved mostly, until you hit the park, then it turns to gravel. Into Capitol Reef we went;





Everything was fun and games until we started heading north through the park. Iโ€™ve been on wash board at least a couple of times in my life. Some really bad. Nothing like this.. It was 20 plus miles of seriously slow (idle speed much of the time). The trailer would start to bounce from the oscillationโ€ฆto the point that it was brutal. Just had to go slow. Usually donโ€™t mind slowing down, but it was over 4 hours on the worse part. 6 hours from the bottom to the exit at the north. Met a Ranger on the road..she was politely trying to tell me that many drivers were idiots and that the drainage cuts were at times difficult or impassable. I thanked her, stated we understood and asked it the ones ahead were worse than the two behind me. They werenโ€™t. Point is though, someone with a long trailer, MH, etc, and who didnโ€™t understand the basicsโ€ฆwould easily wedge in the โ€˜Vโ€™. I think the best part of the whole little journey was when we were at the wye at the bottom of the switch backs and met up with a couple heading up with a little truck and pop up camp trailer. Her eyes were about 6โ€ in diameter after noting that weโ€™d come down the hill. She looked at her husband and said โ€œOk, I think we can do thisโ€.

Side note, Iโ€™m not sure I would choose to go up the switch backs with heavy trailer comboโ€™s. Completely doable, but the uphill sharp turns are pretty bumped out from people spinning. Weโ€™re a lot heavier than average, but the lighter trucks, etc, have rutted it out severely making one seriously bumpy ride going up. One of those situations where a light truck dragging an anchor would have to keep some speed to make it around the corner, but in doing so, compounds the problem. Food for thought for those that tow.

Ended up near Hanksville for a quiet night. Really, really quiet.



Our freezers were full of Ling Cod, steaks, hamburger, Sea Bass and along with some kielbasa, really good hot dogs, etc. Some nights, I just wasnโ€™t sure what to make; here was an odd surprise; apples, sauerkraut, kiebasa, potatoโ€™s and seasoning. Call it a wild hair at times, but fun and this was pretty simple and good.



Then back south along 95 towards Blanding. Hands down, one of the top areas we need to go back to and park and explore. Stunningly beautiful canyon areas. We werenโ€™t in a hurry, but we did have a deadline now to be back home which led us to not explore the way we wanted. Blanding and then North to Moab. Ugh.

Hit Moab and realized Iโ€™m getting older. Itโ€™s different; too metro, too invaded, too much like other areas that become โ€˜popularโ€™. Uptight and no fun anymore. I know, itโ€™s just one opinion, but I donโ€™t dwell on it, just move on to the next. We drove out of town east for 30 miles to get off BLM land (the area near Arches/Moab has restrictions on camping, as in designated areas only). Passed the last campground, cross the bridge, turned left and parked by ourselves. Mucho better.

In the morning we hit Arches. Unloaded the bike and viewed and hiked. Wonderful hikes. And again, a win for the parking. Place was crowded, cars looping around and around looking for a spot. Itโ€™s a shame, and Iโ€™m also not one to want to jump to limiting. Not sure if there is an answer other than one has to plan better, as I want people to enjoy and see the wonders. But the crowds at the popular spots can be brutal.







From Arches, we drove north up 191, making time, and went through Flaming Gorge Rec area and then into Wyoming. Found a nice little camp site in the middle of a little field. It wasnโ€™t bum-f-egypt, but you could see it from there..







Through Rock Springs and into Jackson Hole. Another town that has lost most of itโ€™s charm. Pandemic and packed with tourists doesnโ€™t help. Beautiful area for sure. Fun fact: almost the entire town closes up and vacations after Thanksgiving. Get there the first week or so of December, and the town is open, but deserted. An absolute treat. Didnโ€™t get that this time unfortunately. Wife shopped a bit and we took off. Outside of town and east, off park land, found another great camp spot. We were eating dinner when a local herd of beef wandered by the camperโ€ฆwe were all quite content at staring at each other. They ate grass, we ate their cousin..

Through the Grand Teton park and into Yellowstone. Snow on the ground, we enjoyed the drive and pulled into the lodge at Old Faithful. Good day for a hikeโ€ฆwe skipped hanging out for Faithful..honestly, itโ€™s not that exciting. But the hike out through the boardwalks is wonderful.



Hereโ€™s the stuff that just cracks me up and should frustrate you all. Typical at the parks, they close the lodges and bathrooms. For safety of course. Then they install these;



Yea, that makes sense. No doubt itโ€™s so much safer to clean. Never mind theyโ€™re bunching all the people together in one line and toilet facility. Donโ€™t read me wrong, I donโ€™t have a problem with the bathroom, just the logic and extra money they spend in the farce of doing the right thing. And the dumbest part? Canโ€™t have the visitor centers open, but we sure can open the shops.. donโ€™t get me going on how stupid weโ€™ve allowed everything to get.

To West Yellowstone, some shopping and out of town to the west. Took 287 and passed a lake that just didnโ€™t make sense to me. Was commenting to the wife that it didnโ€™t make a lick of sense to build a dam and not cut all the trees first. Why would they do thatโ€ฆ.? Lol, around the bend, a sign, I pulled over, and got another history lesson. A natural tragedy in the 50โ€™s, Earthquake Lake. That explained why the trees were still sticking up in the middle of the lake.





To Ennis, then a bit more backroad to Virginia City, zigged down to Dillon, then shot up to 90 and worked our way home. Stopped and had dinner with friends in Coeur dโ€™Alene, checked out some property north of Spokane.

One of the last quiet camp spots was about 6 miles up a valley road in Montana off 41 (I think we were near Silver Star). Had a ranch hand pass by earlierโ€ฆtold him we were looking for the bar. I didnโ€™t think it was that funny, but he sure did. I can only imagine his though process, from lost city folk idiots in way over their heads to, sweet, having fun, looks like a good time.. About 9pm, we hear a truck coming down the road..three honks, a big wave and off he went. Nothing more than letting us know he was passing through.

We donโ€™t go four wheeling, looking to get lost, stuck, or otherwise screwed up and in trouble; never been up anything I couldnโ€™t back out of. But we get off the beaten track for sure. Itโ€™s really not hard to determine if a road is used enough that it heads somewhere, and Iโ€™m always looking to see if I can determine if itโ€™s graded or not. A grader takes a decent amount of space to turn around. If he can, I can. The new apps (Maprika, others similar) are fantastic for showing roads, trails, BLM, National Forest land, etc. Makes it really easy to keep pushing. Neat thing about them, they work even without signal. Iโ€™ll download a section of the map prior to being in an area (a big chunk of the state or states) and the GPS location works regardless of signal. So, the map works.

We took a trip to the Red Woods and what not earlier this summer. Iโ€™m going to try and put something together for that too. Lotโ€™s of good sights for sure.

Cheersโ€ฆ.
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!