Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: General RVing Issues: Power pedestal wiring question
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in General RVing Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Power pedestal wiring question

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 6  
Prev  |  Next
enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile






Posted: 02/02/21 12:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The breakers should be jumpered on the incoming side providing 30 amp and 20 amp independent of each other.


Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow

2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker


ronharmless

The far side

Senior Member

Joined: 12/15/2008

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/02/21 01:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The pedestals come complete with receptacles, breakers, meters, etc.; pre-wired with main lugs at the bottom for the feeds. They're 3 wire, two hots and a neutral, connect a ground wire at the bottom and you're done. Can be configured with any type and as many receptacles as you want, also with cable tv, water spigot, whatever you need. As I said they are pre-wired - Each circuit breaker is branched off the 3 main lugs, and wired directly to the three outlets.

The main feeds are generally 250kcmil or larger and are on circuits of 200 - 400 amps depending on the number sites, and number and sizes of receptacles being fed. They just daisy chain the feed from one pedestal to the next, to the next, etc.; just like you would wire receptacles and light switches in your home off one breaker in the main panel.

Midwest makes a lot of them, also Siemens, GE there are others.

That's also probably the best way to put one in at your house. Just run the feeds to the lugs and you're done, no worries about wiring the receptacle wrong.

So in this situation each individual receptacle will give you the amps its breaker is rated for.

* This post was last edited 02/02/21 02:29pm by ronharmless *   View edit history

nickthehunter

Southgate, MI

Senior Member

Joined: 07/18/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/02/21 03:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

wnjj wrote:

ken56 wrote:

I'm sure there are pedestals out there wired like you described but there is no way of knowing without looking at how it's wired inside and that does not happen without opening up the pedestal and no one does that.

I suppose one could just turn off the 30A breaker and then check if the 20A receptacle still has power.


Just like BB_TX wrote on page 1.
you got to ask yourself just one question - how do you run the wire off the back end of the 30 amp breaker to the front end of the 20 amp breaker?
And what would the electrical inspector say?
Not to mention, Why would you do that?

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/02/21 04:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dedmiston wrote:

You pay for a site with a pedestal and you're welcome to use every feature of the pedestal. They don't charge you extra for the light switch that illuminates it.

If they wanted to limit you to the 30A receptacle, then they wouldn't also provide a 20A receptacle.

For overnight guests, it's all-you-can-eat. For long term guests, they meter the pedestal and charge you for use.


No, no, no, no common sense replies please, lol!

Edit, some of the responses are hilarious, yet scary in this thread...


2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29

dedmiston

The West

Moderator

Joined: 01/26/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 02/02/21 04:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

No, no, no, no common sense replies please, lol!


Yeah, that's the part where I always get tripped up. [emoticon]


2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. AISIN trans & 4.10 rear. B&W RVK3600 hitch • 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") • Hooligan #3

Toys:
  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230



enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile






Posted: 02/02/21 04:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And when someone burns up their rig, damage their rig, they will sue the facility!

NJRVer

NJ

Senior Member

Joined: 05/16/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 02/03/21 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DrewE wrote:

dedmiston wrote:


If they wanted to limit you to the 30A receptacle, then they wouldn't also provide a 20A receptacle.


Actually, the National Electric Code requires that every site with electricity have the 20A receptacle (even when there is also a 30A and/or 50A receptacle). I assume this is at least partly to cut down on people using 30A to 15/20A or 50A to 15/20A adapters which frequently do not have proper overcurrent protection--and, presumably for that reason, are also frequently not UL listed.

I agree that it is perfectly within one's rights and reasonable use to plug things into both the 30A and the 20A receptacle, unless the campground specifically requests otherwise. Using the amenities that are included with your campground fees is perfectly reasonable--I don't see where it's any different than using the playground or swimming pool or nature walk, even if not everybody who camps makes use of them; it's part of the package deal for getting the site.


I believe they require the 20 amp outlet as a "service outlet" in order to have electricity available to to do work as needed for maintenance and repairs.
Just like you have to have an outside service outlet on a house so workman have electric available to them.

Bobbo

Wherever I park

Senior Member

Joined: 09/16/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 02/03/21 06:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A house doesn't have to have an outside outlet. My sister's house didn't until she hired an electrician to install one for her own use. (Of course, that house was built in 1957.)


Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB


DrewE

Vermont

Senior Member

Joined: 08/23/2014

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/03/21 07:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bobbo wrote:

A house doesn't have to have an outside outlet. My sister's house didn't until she hired an electrician to install one for her own use. (Of course, that house was built in 1957.)


Yeah, there have been at least one or two changes to the NEC since 1957. New houses are required to have at least two: one in front and one in the back. (As always, subject to local adoption and/or modification of the NEC....) New houses must meet the current codes; existing ones are grandfathered in, as usual, and generally need only meet the codes in place at the time of their construction until renovations or updates bring newer requirements into play for the new work.





enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile






Posted: 02/03/21 08:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have to have one in crawl space, close to AC units, whether it is on roof or on the ground and in pumphouses. This started around 1993, As stated older homes do not have to be upgraded.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 6  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Power pedestal wiring question
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in General RVing Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.