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No Power

Mike_P_
Explorer
Explorer
New to me E450 C Class
Not getting power to the rear bumper for a trailer wire plug in.
Wiring in the underside rear does not look disturbed.
Havn't found the fuse box yet to check for a blown fuse.
Any other suggestions other than the fuse?
TIA, Mike
14 REPLIES 14

Mike_P_
Explorer
Explorer
Back at it this morning checking all the fuse's I could find with the light up tester. All had power on both sides of the fuse.
I found the box with 4 relays under the hood on the drivers side but not sure how to check if they are working?
Should I mark the original position they are in, and move them around to check if I have power to the rear bumper plug in or??
Thanks, Mike

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
find a trailer shop in your area, they know what to look for, beats spending hours an even days to figure it out.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
rlw999 wrote:


It took me just a couple minutes to check all of the fuses in the inside fuse box on my E450 (there are only two fuse boxes in my chassis - one in the engine bay and one in the passenger compartment) when I was trying to find the fuse used for the backup camera display that the previous owner hardwired in).

It takes like a second to touch each side with the probe so even though there are 43 fuses in that box, it doesn't take long to check them all. Less time than it would take me to look up the fuse chart online.

Maybe you misunderstand the tool I was describing, it's not a meter with 2 leads, it's a screwdriver like probe -- clip the ground wire to something metal, then just stick the sharp probe end into the hole on top of the fuse (even mini-ATC fuses have that hole) and see if the light comes on. No need to stare at the meter display and wait for it to register voltage for each one, the light either comes on or it doesn't so you get instance confirmation and can go on to the next one.

In my case it turned out to not be a fuse at all but a bad splice to the radio harness where he tapped off the power.


Not sure what yr you have but OPs 2006 has MORE than two fuse boxes..

If it follows close to the 2006 F250 I had, there was TWO under the dash on the drivers side, there were THREE under the hood. One of the three under the hood was for the TOWING wiring fuse and relay box and on a F250 that was on the drivers side under the hood.

The 2003 F250 I had had FOUR fuse boxes, two under the drivers side dash two under the hood, one under the hood was the TOWING wiring fuse and relay box.

Had a 97 F250 with basically the same setup..

Have 2013, 2019, 2020 all with fuses under the hood for the towing wiring..

If you notice, a common theme is ALL of the fuses associated with the TOWING wiring was not under the dash but it was under the hood and it was completely SEPARATE from all other functions.

It is not easy to find, it is a little narrow black plastic box that is often pretty well hidden and the cover is pretty stubborn to remove.

Telling someone to look under the dash for the towing fuses is most likely not going to be of any help if Ford used this same wiring setup on E450 (which from the info and links I posted seemed to indicate I am correct)..

Mike_P_
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the info so far.
I'm the worst at electrical problems.
I will get back at tomorrow afternoon, and will get back with what I find.
Mike

rlw999
Explorer
Explorer
Mike P. wrote:

I know it was meant to be helpful, but..

There is at least 100 fuses spread out over 4-5 different fuse/relay boxes which may be under the drivers side dash, under the passenger side of dash and both sides of the engine bay..

Add in the fact that the OP is dealing with a "E450 Van chassis" RV fuse boxes often get moved or rearranged by the RV manufacturer..

Finding and testing every single one of those fuses without a game plan will result in a lot of frustration..

Especially considering there ARE "charts" that give locations and function of fuses..

Additionally, most fuses use in modern automobile applications are the even smaller ATM (MINI) plastic fuses which will make even more challenging to nail with meter leads..

ATC vs ATM FUSES




It took me just a couple minutes to check all of the fuses in the inside fuse box on my E450 (there are only two fuse boxes in my chassis - one in the engine bay and one in the passenger compartment) when I was trying to find the fuse used for the backup camera display that the previous owner hardwired in).

It takes like a second to touch each side with the probe so even though there are 43 fuses in that box, it doesn't take long to check them all. Less time than it would take me to look up the fuse chart online.

Maybe you misunderstand the tool I was describing, it's not a meter with 2 leads, it's a screwdriver like probe -- clip the ground wire to something metal, then just stick the sharp probe end into the hole on top of the fuse (even mini-ATC fuses have that hole) and see if the light comes on. No need to stare at the meter display and wait for it to register voltage for each one, the light either comes on or it doesn't so you get instance confirmation and can go on to the next one.

In my case it turned out to not be a fuse at all but a bad splice to the radio harness where he tapped off the power.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
rlw999 wrote:
Mike P. wrote:

According to the Ford book that came with the unit new, I'm not sure what fuse it is that I should look for?
Mike


If you're not sure which fuse to check, you could just check them all. It's pretty fast and easy with a 12V test light (looks kind of like a screwdriver with a pointy tip, a light in the handle, and a ground wire with a clamp). The fuses have a pair of holes on top where the contacts are exposed, just poke the test light into each side of the fuse, if it has power on one side but not the other, you know it's blown.


I know it was meant to be helpful, but..

There is at least 100 fuses spread out over 4-5 different fuse/relay boxes which may be under the drivers side dash, under the passenger side of dash and both sides of the engine bay..

Add in the fact that the OP is dealing with a "E450 Van chassis" RV fuse boxes often get moved or rearranged by the RV manufacturer..

Finding and testing every single one of those fuses without a game plan will result in a lot of frustration..

Especially considering there ARE "charts" that give locations and function of fuses..

Additionally, most fuses use in modern automobile applications are the even smaller ATM (MINI) plastic fuses which will make even more challenging to nail with meter leads..

ATC vs ATM FUSES

Since OP doesn't have ANY stop/turn/tail/break, charge power they might wish to look at the wiring right at the socket on the RV and trace back to the wiring harness.. I find it interesting that ALL have "failed" so there is a chance that the socket is not even connected to the wiring harness or if it is connected it was a botched job and the wires corroded off..

There is no one "master fuse" for all towing connections that I am aware of, there should be separate fuses and relays for stop/turn/tail/brake..

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
There is on many rigs a fuse block under the hood that has separate fuses for each of the trailer connector. If you don't have one, get a 12 volt DC test light.
The fuse block should be in the chassis owner's manual.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Mike,

Mine came with a 60 amp blade fuse. They are hard to come by. In my 2005 it is in a rectangular box in the engine compartment about 2 feet back from the grill on the drivers side.

I put in a 50, and it blew. I put in another 50 and it blew. I replaced it with an automatic circuit breaker, and all is well.

There is also a circuit breaker for the tail lights in the same box. (and yes, I managed to blow that, too.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

rlw999
Explorer
Explorer
Mike P. wrote:

According to the Ford book that came with the unit new, I'm not sure what fuse it is that I should look for?
Mike


If you're not sure which fuse to check, you could just check them all. It's pretty fast and easy with a 12V test light (looks kind of like a screwdriver with a pointy tip, a light in the handle, and a ground wire with a clamp). The fuses have a pair of holes on top where the contacts are exposed, just poke the test light into each side of the fuse, if it has power on one side but not the other, you know it's blown.

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
Check the ground for the trailer connector before getting too involved in looking for light circuit problems. Then check the ground a second time.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mike P. wrote:
Unit is a 2006 Born Free
Getting no power to the rear receptacle in the bumper.
Just want the brake, turn and running lights to work for my small trailer.
According to the Ford book that came with the unit new, I'm not sure what fuse it is that I should look for?
Mike


There will be a relay and fuse for EACH of those items.

Found another post on a different website with similar issue as yours for 2006 E450..

You can view that HERE

Specifically from that thread is the locations of the fuse boxes and relays HERE

HERE is a Internet search using your information that may yield additional help.

You may also need to double check the wiring at the rear to make sure it is plugged into the wiring harness since you have nothing at all.

gotsmart
Explorer
Explorer
Does the RV's brake lights, and rear turn signals work? Do they also work when tail lights are on? (when the headlights are on)

If not I recommend chasing that down first. Fixing that may fix the trailer connector.
2005 Cruise America 28R (Four Winds 28R) on a 2004 Ford E450 SD 6.8L V10 4R100
2009 smart fortwo Passion with Roadmaster "Falcon 2" towbar & tail light kit - pictures

Mike_P_
Explorer
Explorer
Unit is a 2006 Born Free
Getting no power to the rear receptacle in the bumper.
Just want the brake, turn and running lights to work for my small trailer.
According to the Ford book that came with the unit new, I'm not sure what fuse it is that I should look for?
Mike

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Model yr of the chassis?

What "power"?

Stop/Turn?

Running lights?

Backup lights?

Brake controller?

Charging line?

Can make a difference..

I am going to assume your looking for charging line power, correct?

Ford puts a relay in line with the charge line, relay only powers the charge line while the ignition is on (IE engine running). They also use separate relays and fuses for the stop/turn, running lights and backup lights for the towing connection.. Prevents shorted trailer wiring from turning off your vehicles lights by accident.

Typically on Trucks the towing relay and fuse box will be under the hood area.. Chassis and van locations may vary..

Newer Fords (2019 and up) now use a solid state "smart" towing module that controls those functions, unsure where that puppy is or the fuses but for the charge line, to get 12V power the engine not only must be running but you must put your foot on the brake and put it into gear.. Supposed to stay on until you turn ignition off and then do that gyration all over.. Not sure what smart idiot came up with that gyration but it is a stupid one for sure..