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 > How to tell when water heater is at max?

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DrewE

Vermont

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Joined: 08/23/2014

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Posted: 02/08/21 04:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It would not be a very difficult job (at least conceptually) to add a neon (or other 120V) pilot light in parallel with the water heater element.





Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 02/08/21 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


AquaHot, HydroHot, Oasis ------not the typical tank RV Water Heater


Attwood 1400W element
HERE
4779 BTU

Suburban 1440W element
HERE
4915 BTU

Gas 9000 BTU input, assuming say 60% efficiency 5400 BTU, most likely efficiency is closer to 70%-80% or about 6300 BTU-7200 BTU..

So, unless you have flunked math, gas IS faster, gas has a much quicker recovery and gas will sustain a longer draw..

And for the record, I ALSO HAD a Suburban 6gallon gas only, at one time, only took 10-15 minutes till it had scalding hot water..

RV water heaters unlike a sticks and bricks are typically set to 130-140 F temps, which is way above scalding point, it is intentional that they are set to high temps.. It allows you to heat a smaller amount of water bet yet draw for longer time.. Basically you will mix 1 part hot to 4 parts to cold to get a hot shower..

So if you use 1 gallon of water per minute and shower for 10 minutes you will have used 2 gallons of hot and 8 gallons of cold in that time frame.

Even if you used 1 to 1 that means a 6 gallon tank will get you a 6 minute shower..

Now if you DROP the amount of water used, you can now extend your time..

.5 gallon of water used per minute now means your shower can last 12 minutes even at a 1 to 1 mix..

I have personally never ever used anywhere near 1 to 1, basically slightly opening the hot water till it trickles then adding in much more cold water until I get a spray.. I am sure I am mixing 1 to 4 or 1 to 5.. And HAVE had no issues getting a darn hot 15 minute shower with hot water to spare..

Folks don't seem to understand that you cannot treat a RV like a sticks and bricks.. A sticks and bricks has a 40-50 gallon water heater..


Might read my 1st post
That info was covered
Atwood gas is 6 gal/8000btu & 10 gal/10,000btu
Suburban gas is 12,000btu (6,10, 12, 16 gal)

T-stat temp settings fr both brand listed

Also recovery rates were listed showing electric slowest, gas faster, both fastest


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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YC 1

Yuba City Calif./ Auburndale Florida

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Posted: 02/08/21 06:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just changed out our element for the 2000 watt one. Atwood 10 gallon heater.

Added mixer valve at water heater so water can only get to a max at each faucet.

Also changed out the T-stat and over temp T-stat as a kit. Water temps are now higher. Supposed to be 160 but I don't think it gets quite that high.

Chasing that cold to hot or hot to cold and chasing the shower controls was a pain. Nice long even showers now.


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YC 1

Yuba City Calif./ Auburndale Florida

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Posted: 02/09/21 07:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Find the schematic and post. An LED or regular 12 volt bulb could be placed to light up when the heating element is turned off just by connecting it to the return path of the T-stat snap disc.

When the T-stat removes voltage to the whatever device it controls, it could make the light go out, or on depending on how wired.

No indication of the actual temp, just an indication of the element being told to turn on. It could work on gas too.

A lighted switch if not already lit could be used. Light on = element off and water is hot for example.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 02/09/21 09:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

YC-1,

Did you upgrade the wiring when you went to 2000 watts? And the breaker?


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wa8yxm

Davison Michigan (East of Flint)

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Posted: 02/09/21 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok the element is 120 volts. You can get a 120 volt neon test light at most hardwares two short leads with probes. YOu may need to work some to access the heat ewlement but put lugs on the probes (the kind that slip over a screw) then loosen the conneciton screws and slip the connecters under and re-tighten, Recover the element but leave the light sticking out.
You will have to open the access panel to see the light

">&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955916552!!!g!43........P7A1P:20501231]Like this one at Grainger

Or as an alternative you can use a Neon panel light again it needs to connect to the ELEMENT not the switch or anything else (well you could connect to the relay but it's right next to the element)

">&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915673!!!g!46........:20501231]Like this one also at Grainger

I do not know why the links did not work . The one below works

The Google Search that found 'em


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YC 1

Yuba City Calif./ Auburndale Florida

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Posted: 02/09/21 06:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

YC-1,

Did you upgrade the wiring when you went to 2000 watts? And the breaker?


Mine was already setup for 20 amps, breaker and all.

Veebyes

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Posted: 02/10/21 07:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know how long it takes from cold start on shore power & don't particularly care. Give it a half hour & it is warm enough for a shower.

Propane, give it 15 minutes or so & it is plenty warm.

If left hot overnight after being on propane then turned off, it is plenty warm in the morning for whatever hot water is needed.


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