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 > Will a 100 watt solar panel be enough

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Darklock

Georgia

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Posted: 02/21/21 05:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

thanks everyone for the replies. I may go with 2 100 watt panels. We will be pretty minimalist with electricity.

wanderingaimlessly

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Posted: 02/21/21 08:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think solar today in RVing is like trucks,,,,
Nobody complains about too much truck or too much solar.

obiwancanoli

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Posted: 02/21/21 08:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 100 watt panel will produce about 5 Amps of juice per hour, under ideal conditions. Conditions are NEVER ideal. My system is designed to produce up to 26 Amps under ideal conditions, but a recent boondocking trip, where the sun was about a 45 degree angle to the panels, ended up producing about 4-5 Amps total on a sunny day.

CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 02/21/21 09:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

obiwancanoli wrote:

A 100 watt panel will produce about 5 Amps of juice per hour, under ideal conditions. Conditions are NEVER ideal. My system is designed to produce up to 26 Amps under ideal conditions, but a recent boondocking trip, where the sun was about a 45 degree angle to the panels, ended up producing about 4-5 Amps total on a sunny day.
Yup and why I use 67% output for 4 hours as an estimate. Sometimes better and sometimes not.


2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob


Darklock

Georgia

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Posted: 03/03/21 11:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Darklock wrote:

please correct me if I'm wrong, (it is the internet, so I'm sure someone will), I read that while driving, modern alternators put out only a small trickle charge once TV battery is fully charged. And that with distance from alternator and small gauge wiring, there is minimal charge getting to trailer battery. Originally I assumed that the truck would keep camper charged, but what I have read has told me otherwise.
There will not be 8 hours driving, probably no more than four hours any day. Probably spending two to three days at a time at each destination. Some stops will be with hook ups others just boondocking, so I need enough to not kill my battery.


Hi Darklkock,

You are correct--but there is a way to fix the problem. You do have to throw some money at it. Use a dc to DC charger.

Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Ba........79&sprefix=Renogy+20a%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-3

Place it after the charge solenoid on the "house" side.

This website may give a better understand of solar and has a good spreadsheet that may be used for an energy audit.

https://freecampsites.net/adding-solar/


I have decided that I want to install a DC-DC charger. So naturally I have a couple questions.
1.Can I use the truck chassis as my ground or am I better off running a wire to the Negative terminal on truck battery?

2.I am thinking of going with the 20amp charger. If I up it to the 40 amp do I need to take into consideration the alternator of truck? I don't know what it's specs are, my truck is just a generic 2017 F-150 XL, the basic 3.5 liter fleet model.

3.What do you mean by "install on the house side of the charge solenoid". I thought that the charger hooked up directly to the house battery.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/03/21 04:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Darklock wrote:

I have decided that I want to install a DC-DC charger. So naturally I have a couple questions.
1.Can I use the truck chassis as my ground or am I better off running a wire to the Negative terminal on truck battery?

2.I am thinking of going with the 20amp charger. If I up it to the 40 amp do I need to take into consideration the alternator of truck? I don't know what it's specs are, my truck is just a generic 2017 F-150 XL, the basic 3.5 liter fleet model.

3.What do you mean by "install on the house side of the charge solenoid". I thought that the charger hooked up directly to the house battery.


1. yes you can

2. the 40 amp can be operated at 20 amps, so in your shoes I would go that route.

3. I prefer to have switches for everything under the sun. There would be no need to remove the isolation solenoid. The dc to DC should be installed close to the house battery bank.

* This post was edited 03/03/21 06:01pm by pianotuna *


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Darklock

Georgia

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Posted: 03/04/21 05:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you

pianotuna

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Posted: 03/04/21 07:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Darklock wrote:

Thank you


It would be best to connect the input of the dc to DC charger to the Chassis battery with a fuse close to the chassis and wire sufficient to carry 50 amps.

Darklock

Georgia

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Posted: 03/04/21 07:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My plan with the 40 amp charger is to use a 60 amp CB on the input side and a 50 amp CB on the output side. I will probably just use some 2 gauge jumper cables with the clamps cut off as my wire. I saw this on a YouTube video and looked like it worked out pretty good. I would go directly to battery with the negative line rather than chassis if I go this route.

* This post was edited 03/04/21 08:00am by Darklock *

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/04/21 08:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Darklock,

I would use a fuse within 18" of the battery for the input to the dc to DC charger. Remember, they used to use batteries for welding.

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