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 > Renogy DC-DC Charger UPDATE 2 Test

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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 02/28/21 05:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is a 15a, 120v light switch on a "12v" DC 16 AWG wire pulling ? amps to just power the unit.


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 02/28/21 08:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13,

You mean it is on the voltage sense line? Not the one to the battery bank?


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna

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Posted: 02/28/21 09:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bdosborn wrote:

Got a link?


This would do. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Calterm-Illu........20-Amp-Rocker-Switch-Red-40310/303616507

BFL13

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Posted: 02/28/21 09:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

BFL13,

You mean it is on the voltage sense line? Not the one to the battery bank?


I don't have a sense line AFAIK.

The output pos and neg go to the house battery bank. The "ignition wire" is just to provide 12v to the unit to power it. It is meant to go on the run circuit of the engine side with the ignition turning it on and off.

I have it on the house side to get 12v since it is not a MH and the unit is in the camper. It is actually on the house battery pos post and the unit's terminal for that wire (see the manual linked earlier). I think I could move it to the unit's pos output terminal inches away and it would work--

pianotuna

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Posted: 02/28/21 09:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13,

Ignition wire = sense wire. Is that where you placed the switch?

BFL13

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Posted: 02/28/21 09:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

BFL13,

Ignition wire = sense wire. Is that where you placed the switch?


IMO sense wire is one of those feed-back things. Anyway, see the manual and all will be revealed! [emoticon] Yours in the Ford MH will be different from how I did it.

bdosborn

Colorado

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Posted: 03/01/21 08:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

bdosborn wrote:

Got a link?


This would do. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Calterm-Illu........20-Amp-Rocker-Switch-Red-40310/303616507


I think you meant to say to use a DC rated switch with appropriate arc suppression, not arc fault detection?
Bruce


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bdosborn

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Posted: 03/01/21 08:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

It is a 15a, 120v light switch on a "12v" DC 16 AWG wire pulling ? amps to just power the unit.


I used the trailer running lights as my sense wire. That way I could turn on/off the DC-DC converter in the daytime from the tow vehicle with out adding a switch.

Bruce

pianotuna

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Posted: 03/01/21 09:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bdosborn wrote:



I think you meant to say to use a DC rated switch with appropriate arc suppression, not arc fault detection?
Bruce


yes.

pianotuna

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Posted: 03/01/21 09:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

IMO sense wire is one of those feed-back things. Anyway, see the manual and all will be revealed! [emoticon] Yours in the Ford MH will be different from how I did it.


Mine will be different than almost all other motorhomes, because I went for twin charging paths. One is OEM modified with a 50 amp-circuit breaker (I kept blowing fuses), and the other is direct from the chassis battery, with a 50 amp circuit breaker. I also added manual switching to each isolation solenoid and upgraded the amperage so that burned contacts are not an issue.

When I had flooded batteries I did "see" as much as 70 amps of charge. When I moved to telecom jars I see little or no charging--in fact the power flow is to the chassis. I.E. almost no alternator charging at all. I did try to correct this by replacing the Chassis battery with an AGM, to no avail.

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