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 > Math question for any engineers out here

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wapiticountry

Mountain West

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Posted: 03/10/21 08:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Harbor Freight will sell you a laser level for less than $30.00. Set the level at the front of the rig and using a two by four set perpendicular to the ground behind the rear tires measure how high the rear of the pad needs to be, skip the math. Your photo seems to indicate about a two to three foot rise, not seven. That would make a pad easy to construct. Just use concrete "Windsor Wall" type blocks and fill in the space with road base.

wr1032

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Posted: 03/10/21 08:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I was doing this I would put two strings of perforated plastic tile up grade from parking area. dry ground will not move as fast as saturated ground. My two cents.


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d3500ram

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Posted: 03/10/21 09:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thought experiment #3 with tongue dropped such that trailer is level.
All dimension are approximate:

[image]

time2roll

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Posted: 03/10/21 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Consider paving two strips for the tires down to some wheel stops and leave it on a slope. This will give traction for the tow vehicle and a positive stop for the trailer. +1 for doing this with some type of stone vs wood.


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fred42

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Posted: 03/10/21 03:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This somewhat obvious suggestion may not be an option in your case. Can you rotate the pad 90 degrees to have its length across the slope instead of falling with the slope? This would turn a 72" problem into a 20" problem.

JaxDad

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Posted: 03/10/21 04:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wapiticountry wrote:

Harbor Freight will sell you a laser level for less than $30.00. Set the level at the front of the rig and using a two by four set perpendicular to the ground behind the rear tires measure how high the rear of the pad needs to be, skip the math.


Easier still. Take length of garden hose and fill it with water, holding one end of the hose a couple feet up against a board (the base end) at a known height (2 feet, 3 feet, etc) walk around with a tape measure and the other end of the hose (the roving end). Lower the roving end until the water is up to the open end of the hose. Measure from the end of the hose down to the ground. That length minus the height of the base end is the difference in elevation.

Water will always find its own level.


BTW, terracing the wall, go up 3ā€™ feet, go in 3ā€™, go up another 3ā€™, etc, etc, and leaning the wall back into the slope will allow you to go up a lot more than a single height wall will.

coolmom42

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Posted: 03/14/21 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

trcothorn wrote:

This is the set up Iā€™m going for. Gravel base for drainage, deadman tee anchors for support. All that.

[image]



Not to be discouraging.... But in TN, those crossties will be termite homes pretty quickly.


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blt2ski

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Posted: 03/14/21 10:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I built my last RR/Treat lumber wall over 20 years ago. SInce then I have installed 1000's of sq ft of concrete walls. Including for a Class A RV parked closer to the walls you are doing.
As mentioned, even for that 4' wall, I used geo grid, every two layers of Allan Block wall in that case. #0K lbs Type A went thru the Nisqually quake here locally a year or two later.
There are lots of ways to do what you are trying to do. Even a 3 or 4' wall frankly needs some engineering help other than tire backs etc.

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schlep1967

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Posted: 03/15/21 06:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

d3500ram wrote:

Thought experiment #3 with tongue dropped such that trailer is level.
All dimension are approximate:

[image]

Using this diagram, Back where the post is at the rear of the trailer build your 3 foot wall.
Then fill in to level.
Then put another wall behind the axles.
After the second wall is built you could fill in behind that wall at a moderate slope down to the first wall so you have something to put stabilizers down on.


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DrewE

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Posted: 03/15/21 08:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It might be worth looking at building a strong deck/platform rather than putting in enough fill and retaining wall to make a level spot.





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