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 > Old Vs New Rig

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1320Fastback

Vista, Ca

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Posted: 03/23/21 09:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seeing your local where is you your camping and riding? We alternate between Glamis, Pole Line Road, North Marina Dive and Octillio.

Also I vote for keeping what you have. It's paid off, in a known condition and one could argue older is simpler and more reliable.


1992 D250 Cummins 5psd
2005 Forest River T26 Toy Hauler


doxiemom11

Victoria TX

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Posted: 03/23/21 09:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have a 2000 V10 36' and will put money into this long before we would buy new/er. We have a quality build and have had no major issues in the 10 years we have owned it. Floorplan works great for us. We'll just keep this paid off one, and you will probably be happier with yours, as long as you like your coach.

familyguy819

San Diego

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Posted: 03/27/21 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RLS7201 wrote:

If you feel that you 99 coach is in good repair, then go for the face lift.

Don't worry about the transmission heat. Ford did a good job of cooling, and heating when necessary, the transmission fluid.

The Banks Power Pack is a good investment. You'll like the results.

With you towing at the max, you may want to look at the rear frame extensions. Some of them are scary and could use some added metal and weld.

My graphics were old and tired. I elected to replace the old graphics with paint. Taping before the paint was long and tiring.

Richard

Thanks For the reply. Along the lines of what I’ve been thinking as well. It’s been a great coach. Sure is nice not having a payment. I’ve been looking into paint or new graphics,
not sure which way I would go.

familyguy819

San Diego

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Posted: 03/27/21 07:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1320Fastback wrote:

Seeing your local where is you your camping and riding? We alternate between Glamis, Pole Line Road, North Marina Dive and Octillio.

Also I vote for keeping what you have. It's paid off, in a known condition and one could argue older is simpler and more reliable.


The known condition item is a huge factor. Buying a used coach can be a real roll of the dice depending on who owned it prior. Thanks for the reply.

ArchHoagland

Clovis, CA, USA

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Posted: 03/27/21 01:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Better the Devil you know than the Devil you don't know.

Keep it.


2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD
Workhorse W22 8.1 Gas Allison 1000, 7.1 mpg

2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
US Gear Brakes


familyguy819

San Diego

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Posted: 03/30/21 06:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I appreciate the replies And insight from everyone. We’re going to keep the Bounder and give it some TLC.

KangaBunnyRoux

SanAntonio

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Posted: 03/30/21 12:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My first rig was 19 years old (1985 purchased in 04). Second rig was 22 years old (1997 purchased 2018) with roughly same mileage. 34K miles. First one was updated with all new rubber, tires, hoses, belts and fluids when I bought her. She ran like a champ and I just kept the roof sealed, replaced stove and coach water pump. Had her 16 years camping on weekends and holidays, she sat for 2 and a tree ended her life. Fell right on the bed over cab portion. My 1997 Holiday Rambler was a great build year on same chassis as yours (F53), with Ford 460 engine. Both were high quality builds. I really like Bounders and the ones I know of were well equipped. Their paint was a bit rough in 80s and early 90s and they chalked and faded to a pinkish color but that can be restored using Zep floor sealer and polish. I've used that these past 7 years on both and it is a no rub, no buff, no yellow finish if you follow the correct applications of 4 light coats. I think the V10 can pull 5K total...but loading it with 5K exceeds the trailer hitch rating. Now if you can add electric brakes to the trailer I think you may be able to do it. My very first pull behind was a 69 Barth Junior (bought in 1996). Those electric brakes were wonderful and I actually used them to slow me coming down grades in Wyoming. I would not want 10K pounds pushing me from the rear. I will say the one thing drastically requiring replacement in my 97 Holiday Rambler was every brake component. And that was pricey. $3676 plus an additional 1K in other stuff. The rubber lines rotted from within. It stopped fine in the neighborhood. But above 45 to 55 mph? I roasted all the components. That was not a happy day. But now I have great confidence in the brakes. I freshened up the interior for 1K. I think I now have 36K miles on the engine and transmission. Plenty of life left. When I get it registered and inspected next I will replace transmission and coolant. Otherwise I've only had 2 oil changes, one cracked pipe and a ruined valve due to the freeze in Texas. I think they were much better built in the 90s.

falconbrother

North Carolina

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Posted: 03/30/21 02:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it's reliable I'd keep it. You can buy a newer rig and end up with a lemon and be sore. I can't speak to the power. Perhaps a Banks kit would get you where you want to be. Me, I'm just not in a hurry and I don't mind kicking up the RPMs to climb a mountain. I pulled my Harley behind my old rig but, it had the GM 454. It did just fine as far as power goes. I understand that the V-10s were built to get their power at higher RPMs.

Really, it comes down to what you want to do. Me, if I knew the one I had was trustworthy I'd stick to it. I have known a few folks that bought new/newer and ended up mad because the one they traded was good and the one they got was a tub..

crasster

Dallas

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Posted: 04/03/21 12:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd redo the old. Until these MFG's start making a better product out of Indiana, I'd go on a buy strike.


4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.


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