Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Tow Bar Suggestions
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 > Tow Bar Suggestions

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casadedi49

Illinois

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Posted: 03/22/21 10:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 38 foot Thor Challenger, gas, motorhome. I just got a vehicle that I can tow. I have been researching different tow bars and they all seem to have their good points. Any suggestions? Also once I get one who installs them? I have a Cummins dealer that I use to do some repairs and winterizing and dewinterizing but their hourly rate has really become pretty high. At least for me. Are other shops, local truck and car repair, able to install the tow bar and set up my 2014 Honda CR-V? Or is this something my automotive handy nephew could do? Last thing, should I get brake assist on the vehicle? Thanks.

enblethen

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Posted: 03/22/21 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Auxiliary brake system for your size rig is a must. You will be maxing out capacity of rig's brakes.
Once you decide on a tow bar, download the installation directions. Many people can install a basic installation without much problem.
Smaller independent shops will do many installs along with wiring. Can get pricy!
I would recommend a MH mounted tow bar for your configuration. More of the weight is on MH and less on the front of the toad.


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Executive

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ready Brute from NSA is my choice. It stays mounted to your coach, if desired, and incorporates a braking system built into the tow bar. Changing out the clevis allows it to be used with almost any base plate.....Dennis

Ready Brute

That "kit" includes EVERYTHING you need, including the base plate and the break away line.


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RLS7201

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The installation instructions with most base plate kits is usually well done. Your nephew should be able to do the install. The tail/stop/turn wiring should probably be left to the professionals. It requires running the wires the full length of the car and adding diodes. The aux brake will also require some wiring.
On your C-RV there is a fuse that needs to be removed every time you toe the car. That will get old very quick. There are kits that replace the fuse with a fuse and switch, so all you have to do is flip the switch when you get ready to tow.
Are you aware of the transmission procedure you must do every morning? Start car and run for 3 minutes, put transmission in drive for 5 seconds, put transmission in neutral, turn off engine and tow. DO NOT put transmission in neutral from any other position before towing.

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larry cad

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had 5 towable vehicles in 17 years, all Jeeps. I had a shop install the first tow plate, and I installed all the rest, including moving the original tow plate to the newest vehicle by myself. There are videos on youtube to show you how if you are interested. Removing and replacing the bumper is probably the most difficult part of the project.

I have always used Blue Ox and have found their products and support to be top notch. I've used two tow bars and have had them serviced by Blue Ox occasionally for minimal charge. Gives me peach of mind.

One step to consider is the electrical wiring for the tail lights on the toad. Depending on your available electrical experience, this can be difficult or easy. A simple and cheap way around wiring is to go to Harbor Freight and purchase their 12v magnetic mount trailer LED lighting kit for $32. Put the lights on the roof and run the included wiring through the hood area and out the grill to the plug on the RV. 10 minutes tops. I have one for use on one jeep without the wiring and it works fine. Google lighting kits and you can find them cheaper.

As mentioned above, it would be a good idea to install an auxiliary brake system to take some of the load off your RV. Many kinds are available so be prepared to spend some time researching. You will get a lot of emotional responses here on the forum, so be prepared.

I would also check for a used tow plate on ebay, and other sites. People who may have owned a CRV before and got rid of it, may have the tow plate leaning against the wall in the garage.


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Tom/Barb

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sterling-Roadmaster-Tow-Bar-011895-Max-Capacity-6-000-lbs-Motor-Home-Travel/254904018781?hash=item3b5976a75d:g:06sAAOSwaRhgT7jo

save your bucks, use used.


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dodge guy

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Its easy to do if you can turn wrenches. all the manuf of tow bars are good quality. I have the Roadmaster, but I would lean toward the Blue Ox If I were to do it again.
Yes I would do brakes. your CRV is on the light side, but aux braking would be beneficial in the event of a disconnect.


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crawford

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use Demco tow bar is has a life time warranty many do not. Had mine for years seen some wear on it sent it in they serviced it no charged at that time 12 year old. I think a company that stands behind there stuff is great and can't be beat..


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way2roll

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Executive wrote:

Ready Brute from NSA is my choice. It stays mounted to your coach, if desired, and incorporates a braking system built into the tow bar. Changing out the clevis allows it to be used with almost any base plate.....Dennis

Ready Brute

That "kit" includes EVERYTHING you need, including the base plate and the break away line.


X2 for ready brute. Our ready brute elite bars are great and the mechanical integrated brake is easy to hook up and nothing to install remove each time you want to tow.


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Beverley&Ken

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Posted: 03/22/21 11:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The biggest issue I had doing the installation was removing the CRV fascia to access the installation points. Blue Ox (and probably others) give excellent instructions that your nephew could easily follow.
I used a 6 position receptacle mounted to base plate, ran the 4 wires under the car for the lights and a 12v charge line (fused) to the battery.
I just added extra bulbs to the blank space in the upper taillight fixture.
For the Brake Buddy, I added a new 12v receptacle under the dash and got power from an unused, always live spot in the fuse panel.

Ours is 12 CRV, but almost the same as a 14.

Ken


2006 Winnebago Outlook 29B E-450.
2012 Honda CR-V AWD
Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar and Brake Buddy Vantage.

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