Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Aux Start to Boost Cranking Amps
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 > Aux Start to Boost Cranking Amps

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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 03/29/21 10:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I recommend a Trik-L-Start combiner or similar so the chassis battery will be kept charged.
You will get more years and miles out of the battery too.


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Chum lee

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Posted: 04/06/21 06:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DrewE wrote:

I agree with everyone--yes, it is okay to do that.

However, there's a pretty good chance that pressing the button isn't actually doing anything with the engine running, since a very common setup is to use the aux start solenoid as the battery combiner/isolator relay and have it engaged whenever the engine is running.


Yes. I agree with Drew, AND with Doug. AND, . . . . the chassis battery, AND coach batteries are, most likely, ALREADY CONNECTED (without pressing the AUX switch) since the (chassis) engine is running. HOWEVER, the OP doesn't state the RPM that the engine is running which WILL have a significant effect on the available amps from the chassis alternator. At idle, with low batteries, IMO, the alternator is only generating enough amps for basic electrical functions. (running the Power Gear electric leveling system ISN'T one of them) Revving the engine for a few minutes could/may help. Recharging the coach/chassis batteries will.

Chum lee

* This post was edited 04/06/21 07:06pm by Chum lee *

MrWizard

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Posted: 04/07/21 05:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes .... Arrive at destination, batteries should be charged from driving, leave engine running, use the jacks to level the RV
If you need to use the aux start switch to boost the engine battery, you have 2 problems, a weak chassis battery that should be replaced and a charging system that is not working correctly, because the house and chassis batteries should already be combined when the engine is running,
There is an exception to this
If your MH has a diode based battery isolator instead of the battery control center box, that is common on many MHs

A diode style isolator let's both batteries charge while keeping them separate, if you have this then yes you must press the aux start switch to combine them to provide extra power to the chassis system for the jacks(if chassis battery is weak)
The BBC cost more $$ takes more time to install than a diode isolator, so some RVs do not have the BBC, but instead have the less costly diode isolator and a less costly momentary duty relay for the aux start function
Instead of the heavier more reliable continuous duty relays used in the BCC

* This post was edited 04/07/21 06:06am by MrWizard *


I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

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gb76087

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Posted: 04/07/21 03:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update
Drove 4 hours Monday, parked RV, kept engine running, battery showing 13.5v, went to lower jacks, jacks down led came on and jacks went into error mode. Going home tomorrow and will do more troubleshooting this weekend.


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dcbrewer

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Posted: 04/15/21 08:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just leave mine running while jacks go down and slides go out. But should not hurt to use start button.

gb76087

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Posted: 04/16/21 07:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just an update.
After I returned home I found that the plug from the front left jack was not completely plugged in at the controller. Since I have repeated the plug I haven't experienced any more problems.

Reisender

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Posted: 04/16/21 07:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes it will kind of work. But you might want to load test that battery (S).

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