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EMD360

Arvada, CO

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Posted: 03/28/21 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is the equipment in the stairs of our new RV.
The batteries are really corroded but they seem to be holding a charge. I’’d like some expert advice. Should I charge with the negative and positive on different batteries?
[image]
Besides wire brushing and checking the fluid what other maintenance would you recommend?
Should I check the solenoid and transfer switch or assume they are working correctly?

[image]


2018 Minnie Winnie 25b New to us 3/2021
Former Rental Owners Club #137
2003 Itasca Spirit 22e 2009-2021

theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 03/28/21 09:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

EMD360 wrote:

Should I charge with the negative and positive on different batteries?

It does not matter.
EMD360 wrote:

Besides wire brushing and checking the fluid what other maintenance would you recommend?

REMOVE the batteries. Clean the batteries, hold down and battery box with baking soda and water solution and rinse well.
The hold down need a serious wire brushing. Judgement call on if the hold down bolts need to be replaced.
I would remove all paint/coating on the brackets. Prime with Rust-oleum "red primer", at least two coats, then at least 3 coats of your choice of color of Rust-oleum paint. Spray can is fast and easy.
EMD360 wrote:

Should I check the solenoid and transfer switch or assume they are working correctly?

If it is not broke don't fix it ! Just clean it.

When you put it all back together, put a GENEROUS dollop of Vaseline on all connections. It will slow down and future corrosion.

red31

Dallas

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Posted: 03/28/21 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If always followed this advise
"The chargers should always be connected to the same points as the loads. Without exception."
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

mr_andyj

Georgia

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Posted: 03/28/21 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I always use the "battery paint? It looks red, and coats the bare metal and helps prevent or greatly reduce formation of the white stuff. Use the green/red felt rings too. Use battery grease also. DOn't coat or grease anything between the terminals and the connectors though.
Keep batt box vented to the outside.
Keep the solenoid compartment air tight from the battery to keep out the gases that corrode.

midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 03/28/21 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, take a pic of how its wired even make a map.

Lwiddis

Near Bishop, California

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Posted: 03/28/21 11:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

“Besides wire brushing and checking the fluid what other maintenance would you recommend?”

What a mess! After cleaning or replacement of any parts necessary (be liberal!) apply a battery terminal coating. Spray can at any auto parts store.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AMP Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 03/28/21 12:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

theoldwizard1 wrote:


REMOVE the batteries. Clean the batteries, hold down and battery box with baking soda and water solution and rinse well.
The hold down need a serious wire brushing. Judgement call on if the hold down bolts need to be replaced.
I would remove all paint/coating on the brackets. Prime with Rust-oleum "red primer", at least two coats, then at least 3 coats of your choice of color of Rust-oleum paint. Spray can is fast and easy.

When you put it all back together, put a GENEROUS dollop of Vaseline on all connections. It will slow down and future corrosion.


I would go one further, replace the batteries, they look like they have been there a long, long time and the way the brackets are corroded, those batteries have been boiling for long periods of time.

You will need to "treat" the brackets by cleaning all of the loose corrosion off, then followup with "baking soda" treatment to neutralize the acid that has been splashed on them. Rinse off the baking soda and allow to dry completely. Once dry, treat the metal with Ospho which is a rust converter to neutralize any rust that may be found. Ospho is the base ingredient in most rust converting paints like Rust-oleum rusty metal primer but BETTER than Rust-oleom. Once Ospho has had 24 hrs to do it's work then cover with a good paint primer coat.

Once Primer is cured, I would suggest painting with a rubberized bedliner, so far, the best I have found is of all things Harbor Freights Spray bedliner.. Under no circumstances buy the Rust-olems bedliner version, it IS garbage, it is not rubberized and is nothing better than textured paint and will chip and rust easily. Minimum of two coats for best protection.

For what it is worth, I would simply see if I could find some generic aftermarket brackets and hardware that fits and then cover the new hardware with HF's bedliner starting out with a clean slate.

While you could use Vaseline, it wouldn't have helped the issue since the issue here is the batteries are boiling off, ALL of the corrosion damage is at the brackets and the brackets go between the filler caps, that needs to be addressed and most likely a converter issue or just plain old wornout batteries.

Generally if it is more of the terminals getting severe corrosion Vaseline or any grease/oil may sometimes help, but more often will not due to the terminal seals failing and the acid creeps up the terminals.

On edit..

Wanted to include a photo of my batteries, Replaced mine in late 2017, photo was taken late 2020. Terminals do not have any grease or oil applied, no corrosion and are clean enough to eat off..

Terminals are not corroded on the outside are not shiny or new looking but they certainly are not corroded.

Bottle of water is shown as that is what it took to replace lost water over one and a half yrs.

Trailer is plugged in 24/7 while not camping.

[image]
[image]Click For Full-Size Image.

* This post was edited 03/28/21 12:54pm by Gdetrailer *

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 03/28/21 05:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Safety glasses, gloves, baking soda and boiling hot water.
The baking soda works 10 times faster with hot water
I use a deep cup and submerge the cable and end.
I use silicone grease which does not run
Sealing where the lead post passes up through the case is important
I coat the underneath of terminals.
Smudged silicone grease is less yucky than grease or Vaseline.

Almot

out there

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Posted: 03/28/21 05:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

EMD360 wrote:

Should I charge with the negative and positive on different batteries?

To extend their life, yes. Read here why: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html. Given that you only have 2 batteries, the benefits could be minimal.

EMD360

Arvada, CO

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Posted: 03/29/21 01:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I looked up ospho and it is really expensive! Naval jelly has some of the same ingredients and I have some on hand. I’ve been busy with other projects, but thanks for all the good advice.
I’m moving the Wilson cell booster to the new Rv. Put in an extra outlet near the bedroom tv and there was a pigtail for another 12 volt device already there!
[image]
I’ve been reading about getting lithium batteries too. Looks like some extra equipment is involved. I’m not sure I want to upgrade to Progressive Dynamics. I built a trolling motor box with three liPo4 20 amp batteries. It only weighs 22 lbs! Great for carrying to the lake.

[image]

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