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goducks10

There

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Posted: 04/02/21 09:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

They don't. A 12V compressor fridge doesn't need the roof vent or the side hole for the rear vent like an absorption fridge needs.
Although it is handy if you need to work on the compressor and to wire up the 12V connection. But it's not needed for ventilation like an absorption fridge needs.
So thats 2 holes less when using a 12V fridge.

GDS-3950BH

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Posted: 04/02/21 02:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?


It doesn't, but some think you have a huge benefit by having 1 less hole in a roof. Whatever LOL.

2oldman

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Posted: 04/02/21 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GDS-3950BH wrote:

some think you have a huge benefit by having 1 less hole in a roof. Whatever LOL.
I put 48 holes in my roof to mount my solar panels. Just don't be stingy with the Dicor!

valhalla360

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Posted: 04/05/21 10:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?


It doesn't...that's a nice advantage. But some people seem to think, leaks don't tend to concentrate around holes in the roof membrane.

Obviously, it's not a 100% solution to leaks but it's a start. Honestly, most of the holes in the roof could be eliminated.
- Properly done sewer vents in the side wall would be less leak prone.
- With cheap low wattage LED, the need for roof hatches to let in light are not as important.

If you eliminate all the roof penetrations, the standard rubber roofs will hold up much better with less maintenance. Even better metal or fiberglass roofs become much cheaper options and are even less leak prone.

Slapping another layer of dicor sounds good but reality is most RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks.


Tammy & Mike
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CavemanCharlie

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Posted: 04/05/21 08:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2oldman wrote:

OP, let us know what you decide on.


I have no decision to make. I just happened to see something about it on You Tube and I thought I would ask what all of you think.

I am very happy with the gas/electric fridge on my 1993 Travel Trailer. It works well and allows me to dry camp.

On the other hand, my brother has a 2018 5th wheel and his gas/electric fridge will not keep things cold in slightly hot weather. It will also not keep things cold while towing. His fridge is one of those with no temp controls on the eyebrow. You are supposed to slide the thermister up and down on the coils to control the temp. I had a buddy that had one of those fridges too and it never worked with a darned either.

The poor build quality and design of some of these never gas/electric fridges has killed the industry.

My old TT is wore out and I'm almost afraid to get a newer one. Besides the fridges not keeping things cold in newer RV's. The AC's in newer RV's seem to be awful too. I can turn my TT into a refrigerator setting in the sun on a 90+ degree day. But, many people say that they can not.

Oh well, I'm going to squeeze one more year out of my rig. After that I will see what happens. .

philh

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Posted: 04/06/21 07:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I put a computer fan inside my fridge, and it made a remarkable improvement, so much so, that I was freezing stuff in the fridge... however, it still required almost daily changes in the slider depending on outside temp. What worked well at 90F, was freezing when temperature went down at night.

JRscooby

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Posted: 04/07/21 04:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?


It doesn't...that's a nice advantage. But some people seem to think, leaks don't tend to concentrate around holes in the roof membrane.

Obviously, it's not a 100% solution to leaks but it's a start. Honestly, most of the holes in the roof could be eliminated.
- Properly done sewer vents in the side wall would be less leak prone.
- With cheap low wattage LED, the need for roof hatches to let in light are not as important.

If you eliminate all the roof penetrations, the standard rubber roofs will hold up much better with less maintenance. Even better metal or fiberglass roofs become much cheaper options and are even less leak prone.

Slapping another layer of dicor sounds good but reality is most RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks.


IMHO, roof leaks on RVs are 100% fault of consumers willingness to replace a camper destroyed by water leaks with another one likely to be destroyed by water leak. Sure, the tell you we promise it won't leak as long as you are willing to mess around with it a couple times a year. And it's not like nobody knows how to make a roof that won't leak.
My '67 Pete had 1 roof vent in cab, 2 in sleeper. About '79, I replaced the gaskets on the vents. Not because of water coming in. The covers would rattle like crazy, but still keep water out.
You say the RV roof is much bigger. True, but Pete knows how to make a seam. If you can make 1 water tight seam, you can make 10, or 100. A friend's '85 Pete had a rock, about 500lb. dropped on top of sleeper. No leak. When it got cold, the lake on the roof changed into a block of ice. Worry about that falling into traffic, we pushed roof up with a jack. Still no leak

* This post was edited 04/07/21 12:41pm by an administrator/moderator *

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