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 > Xantrex Freedom 458 - Equalizing at 16.3 Volts

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KendallP

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Posted: 04/08/21 12:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Solved in post #5



Hello, folks,

A friend in Tech Issues suggested I repost this here.


I was surprised to find my advanced search for both the last year and the archives turned up no results, so...

This unit has an equalizing mode that runs at a proper, but hefty 16.3V. And it has the current to back it up. Which is pretty sweet. But...

My question is in regard to the electronics in a 2004 MH.

Can they comfortably withstand this?

Or is it enough to open all the breakers except the Xantrex?

Or should I pretend the mode doesn't exist, disconnect the negative and equalize with a portable only?

Or....

* This post was edited 04/10/21 11:57pm by KendallP *


Cheers,
Kendall

1986 Winnebago Chieftain 22RC


chuckftboy

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Posted: 04/08/21 05:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

12 volt electronics can handle 16.3 voltage and since wattage is voltage x amps (current) motors will draw less amps while resistance heaters will be a bit hotter though not enough to hurt anything. Quality LED lights will have no issue with a little more voltage.


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pianotuna

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Posted: 04/08/21 10:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KendallP the search engine on rvnet may not work well. Better to search from Google, while "pointing" it at rvnet.

Computer boards don't like more than 15.4 volts.

Most 12 volt on RV's are protected by fuses, so I suspect tripping breakers will do nothing to protect the 12 volt devices.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wolfe10

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Posted: 04/09/21 01:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I always disconnect 12 VDC to any PC boards when equalizing.


Brett Wolfe
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Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

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KendallP

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Posted: 04/10/21 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you, everyone, for the suggestions. I believe I may have solved the problem.

The battery tray on this new-to-me coach, makes it difficult to see the furthest interior battery. The positive and negative house leads are connected to the furthest front of the 3. While cleaning up the tray, I removed all the batteries and discovered a second set of positive and negative house leads connected to the innermost battery. My last rig had only one set of leads connecting the bank to the coach. My wheels began to turn.

Isolating the negative lead from the front battery appears to cut power to the 12V system of the house. But I discovered the bank was still receiving a charge after pulling that negative.

So it seems a little more than likely that the Xantrex has its own, separate leads between it and the bank. Therefore, by pulling the outer negative, I should be cutting power to the coach while maintaining power from the Xantrex in any charge mode... including Equalize.

Thanks again,

K

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