First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

[th3_fix3r]

We're BRAND NEW to camping. Family of 3. I went to my local RV shop. We were in my wife's car and long story short, the salesman tells me I can't pull anything over 4klbs with my truck. When I got home, I checked the owner's manual and it says as follows: "Ram 1500 4x4 Laramie with 5.7L HEMI v8 Towing: 5000lbs - std 9850lbs - max Payload: 1610 lbs - max"

We're looking at one of the Jayco travel trailers. I think it was the jay flight 264BH. (willing to hear any and all advice on that topic as well since we're so new) but that one in particular is 4425lbs. We like the larger trailers we saw with slides (Pioneer DS310) but the dry weight was 7600lbs. Someone who knows please advise!! Thanks so much in advance for your help!!!

[2012Coleman]

Grit dog wrote:
^I’m glad you’re happy with your current choice. In the end, that’s what matters.

But no conspiracy theories on my part, I just happen to understand vehicles a bit better than the average person, it seems, and try to help those who don’t, who are receiving “advice” from those who don’t.
Cheers!

Sorry - but your just one of those internet guys that thinks he knows more about whatever the current topic is, can't stand input from anyone who has a different opinion, and constantly pushes his own opinions ("advice") on people new to this forum willing to ask to the point of frustrating them so much that they leave and don't come back.

Like I said - lots of chaff on here....

[mlh]

I didn't read every comment on here but have you weighed your truck at a scale? You will probably find that you have less payload available than what's on the door. I once had a 1/2 ton Laramie and was in the same boat. My 8000# trailer had a 750# tongue weight according to the spec sheet. Actual tongue weight was 1200#. Your WDH is approximately 80# added to that. You are already over payload capacity and you haven't sat in the driver's seat yet.

[Grit_dog]

Nope, just springs. But thanks for the input.

[JimK-NY]

Someone who understands trucks would readily see that a 3/4 ton truck and a 1 ton truck are very similar with very similar costs; however, the 1 ton is more suitable for a heavier load. Typically the springs are stronger and often wheels and tires are upgraded to a higher load capacity.

[Grit_dog]

^I’m glad you’re happy with your current choice. In the end, that’s what matters.

But no conspiracy theories on my part, I just happen to understand vehicles a bit better than the average person, it seems, and try to help those who don’t, who are receiving “advice” from those who don’t.
Cheers!

[2012Coleman]

Grit dog wrote:


Another example of complete lack of understanding with some tall tales about how you justified to yourself trading up your perfectly good 3/4 ton gasser for a 1 ton diesel.
Your story is buyers remorse over buying a gasser.
Nothing to do with payload, in your case.

Awww - so sorry the OP didn't lap up your conspiracy theories and take your advise. Some people do have brains.

I'm not sure how getting what I wanted equates to a lack of understanding on my part. Of course my 2500 gasser was adequate to do the job - I stated that. But since I wanted something better - and went out and got it - that somehow hurts your feelings??? :?

Another one bites the dust - but that's what some people prefer.

Here - read this again:

th3_fix3r wrote:
Well... this has been fun. Loads of fun. I'm buying a diesel. 25-3500 Ram. Maybe i'll meet some good folks when i get out there so i don't have to ask my newbie questions here and sort through 7 pages of contradicting arguments. To those of you who have truly just tried and successfully provided information and not been jerks: thank you a ton for your input!

[Grit_dog]

2012Coleman wrote:

th3_fix3r wrote:
Well... this has been fun. Loads of fun. I'm buying a diesel. 25-3500 Ram. Maybe i'll meet some good folks when i get out there so i don't have to ask my newbie questions here and sort through 7 pages of contradicting arguments. To those of you who have truly just tried and successfully provided information and not been jerks: thank you a ton for your input!

I've read through this thread and unfortunately, - well you said it....

Just remember the few who did state the importance of payload - the number from the doorjamb sticker, over towing capacity. Your current truck as you stated lists 1180 lbs.

Payload is how much your truck can carry - you can't increase it by adding stuff like airbags or believing conspiracy theories about manufacturers fudging the numbers for devious reasons.

To figure out what your payload is, you either have to load up everything and go to a scale or calculate it.

To calculate, first you need to know tongue weight - which most agree is calculating the TT's GVWR by 13%. In your case the Jayco your interested in has a gross weight of 6000 and 1310 cargo capacity. So 7310 x .13 = 950. Subtract that from your available payload of 1180, and you only have 230 left. Then it's usually a given that for calculation purposes, you take another 100 lbs off for WDH weight. So now you have 130 left - you can see where this is going.

Fully optioned trucks have less payload then minimally optioned trucks - those accessories weigh a lot. Is the engine in your truck able to tow that weight - it certainly is, but is the platform it sits on able to carry it? you could go even deeper, but why? It can or it can't. Is it ok to push the limit because as every armchair engineer out there knows, they built in extra capacity - just in case...

So going to a larger truck - lets talk about the 2500. I have a 12 fifth wheel, and started off with a Ram 2500 6.4 hemi - had the coil springs. Don't remember the exact payload, but if was over 3k - because of the gas engine. Put the Cummings in there and payload goes down - because the engine is heavier. So my Ram 2500 truck was perfectly suited to pull my camper - it didn't squat, and it pulled my previous TT which was 5k like nothing was back there. But I didn't like the revving from the gas engine required to make the power to pull it - I mentioned this here and to someone, that meant I was scared of it - LOL.

so if you go to the diesel, just be sure your ok on payload for any future TT you may decide on.

In my case, I bit the bullet and bought a SRW Ram 3500 CTD and am like a pig in mud. People will say they aren't daily drivers - I drive mine daily - to work and back. The ride isn't that much different than the 2500. The towing experience is awesome - I drove one handed on a 6 hour trip recently. I have the dealership do the maintenance when time to change oil/fuel filters - yea it costs more, but I sock away a few extra bucks in a special savings account at bill paying time - but oil changes are not as frequent. The dealer told me to rely on the computer readout which tells you what percentage life you have left for oil and filters. It's a great truck - I'm very happy with it, but the only downside is that the OEM Firestone tires really suck!

Sorry your experience on this forum was what it was. I learned a lot when I first started posting here, but now, because of what you have to go through to get a simple question answered, I don't ask a lot of questions - you do/did get some good advice, but there's often an overwhelming amount of chaff you have to blow through to get to the wheat.

Good luck to you - hopefully whatever you decide to do will make your camping enjoyable for you and your family.

Another example of complete lack of understanding with some tall tales about how you justified to yourself trading up your perfectly good 3/4 ton gasser for a 1 ton diesel.
Your story is buyers remorse over buying a gasser.
Nothing to do with payload, in your case.

[Grit_dog]

Jimk NY, I can again confidently say that there is no substantial improvement in capability ,apples to apples, between your leaf spring 2500 CTD truck and a 3500 srw.
There may be other creature comforts or improvements in power or improvements in a newer model, but apples to apples everything in between the “2500” fender badges and south of the radiator grille and north of the back bumper is the SAME save for an extra leaf spring!
Why are some people so adamant about expressing their wrongness?
And no I don’t expect you to try to explain what these meaningful differences are, you won’t, because there are none.

[JimK-NY]

2012Coleman wrote:


In my case, I bit the bullet and bought a SRW Ram 3500 CTD and am like a pig in mud.

It's a great truck - I'm very happy with it, but the only downside is that the OEM Firestone tires really suck!

You post matches my experience except my previous truck was a 2010 Ram CTD 2500 with leaf springs that I upgraded to carry my 4000# truck camper.

Moving to the 3500 was a big jump. There is only a minimal cost difference between a 2500 and 3500 but there is a substantial improvement in capability with no downsides that I can see.

Moving to the CTD is a whole other issue and a costly one. I would not want a gasser for my uses but I can certainly understand why some would avoid the cost and just don't need that extra power.

I am also disappointed in the Firestone tires. At 15000 miles the rear tires are more than half worn out. I moved them to the front but I am sure I will need 4 new tires in another 15000 miles or less. I already did the research. Unless something new and better comes along, I plan on going with the Michelin Agilis.

[2012Coleman]

th3_fix3r wrote:
Well... this has been fun. Loads of fun. I'm buying a diesel. 25-3500 Ram. Maybe i'll meet some good folks when i get out there so i don't have to ask my newbie questions here and sort through 7 pages of contradicting arguments. To those of you who have truly just tried and successfully provided information and not been jerks: thank you a ton for your input!

I've read through this thread and unfortunately, - well you said it....

Just remember the few who did state the importance of payload - the number from the doorjamb sticker, over towing capacity. Your current truck as you stated lists 1180 lbs.

Payload is how much your truck can carry - you can't increase it by adding stuff like airbags or believing conspiracy theories about manufacturers fudging the numbers for devious reasons.

To figure out what your payload is, you either have to load up everything and go to a scale or calculate it.

To calculate, first you need to know tongue weight - which most agree is calculating the TT's GVWR by 13%. In your case the Jayco your interested in has a gross weight of 6000 and 1310 cargo capacity. So 7310 x .13 = 950. Subtract that from your available payload of 1180, and you only have 230 left. Then it's usually a given that for calculation purposes, you take another 100 lbs off for WDH weight. So now you have 130 left - you can see where this is going.

Fully optioned trucks have less payload then minimally optioned trucks - those accessories weigh a lot. Is the engine in your truck able to tow that weight - it certainly is, but is the platform it sits on able to carry it? you could go even deeper, but why? It can or it can't. Is it ok to push the limit because as every armchair engineer out there knows, they built in extra capacity - just in case...

So going to a larger truck - lets talk about the 2500. I have a 12 fifth wheel, and started off with a Ram 2500 6.4 hemi - had the coil springs. Don't remember the exact payload, but if was over 3k - because of the gas engine. Put the Cummings in there and payload goes down - because the engine is heavier. So my Ram 2500 truck was perfectly suited to pull my camper - it didn't squat, and it pulled my previous TT which was 5k like nothing was back there. But I didn't like the revving from the gas engine required to make the power to pull it - I mentioned this here and to someone, that meant I was scared of it - LOL.

so if you go to the diesel, just be sure your ok on payload for any future TT you may decide on.

In my case, I bit the bullet and bought a SRW Ram 3500 CTD and am like a pig in mud. People will say they aren't daily drivers - I drive mine daily - to work and back. The ride isn't that much different than the 2500. The towing experience is awesome - I drove one handed on a 6 hour trip recently. I have the dealership do the maintenance when time to change oil/fuel filters - yea it costs more, but I sock away a few extra bucks in a special savings account at bill paying time - but oil changes are not as frequent. The dealer told me to rely on the computer readout which tells you what percentage life you have left for oil and filters. It's a great truck - I'm very happy with it, but the only downside is that the OEM Firestone tires really suck!

Sorry your experience on this forum was what it was. I learned a lot when I first started posting here, but now, because of what you have to go through to get a simple question answered, I don't ask a lot of questions - you do/did get some good advice, but there's often an overwhelming amount of chaff you have to blow through to get to the wheat.

Good luck to you - hopefully whatever you decide to do will make your camping enjoyable for you and your family.

[dodge_guy]

JimK-NY wrote:

th3_fix3r wrote:
Well... this has been fun. Loads of fun. I'm buying a diesel. 25-3500 Ram. Maybe i'll meet some good folks when i get out there so i don't have to ask my newbie questions here and sort through 7 pages of contradicting arguments. To those of you who have truly just tried and successfully provided information and not been jerks: thank you a ton for your input!

If you look at the Ram 2500, be aware that it has coil springs in the rear. That will give a cushy ride but limit any attempt to beef up the suspension if you ever need to use the truck at full load capacity. I am sure opinions will vary on this with contradicting arguments, but I would never buy one.

I’ve yet to see anyone complain about squatting with the coil spring trucks!

[Grit_dog]

JimK-NY wrote:

th3_fix3r wrote:
Well... this has been fun. Loads of fun. I'm buying a diesel. 25-3500 Ram. Maybe i'll meet some good folks when i get out there so i don't have to ask my newbie questions here and sort through 7 pages of contradicting arguments. To those of you who have truly just tried and successfully provided information and not been jerks: thank you a ton for your input!

If you look at the Ram 2500, be aware that it has coil springs in the rear. That will give a cushy ride but limit any attempt to beef up the suspension if you ever need to use the truck at full load capacity. I am sure opinions will vary on this with contradicting arguments, but I would never buy one.

I agree with this if considering a larger truck camper. And have similar sentiments.
However after driving and towing with a bunch of 4th Gen 2500s and now being the owner of one, they perform the same as any other 2500. And aren’t that limited in suspension upgrades.
Options are, in order of ease of install:
Timbrens or sumos
Airbags
Aftermarket springs.
Realistically, if I was hauling heavy I’d just pop for a new set of springs. Coils are pretty easy to swap out and actually cheaper than airbags.
Been hauling a tongue heavy 7klb snomachine trailer with ours this winter. And an (estimated) 1000lb tongue weight would not quite level the truck out
Mine is lifted, leveled 6”F/4”R lift with OEM rear springs on spacers so the tongue weight puts the truck nose high. I just bought bags to compensate for that because will be towing a heavy tongue weight camper this summer. Well over 1000lb guessing.
But the truck with a cheapo 6” lift and 37s tows a 34’ long enclosed trailer like it figuratively “isn’t there.”
Point is the Ram coils don’t s uck. Given the option I’d get leafs only because I’m really a TC guy and they’re not suited well for that application.

[JimK-NY]

th3_fix3r wrote:
Well... this has been fun. Loads of fun. I'm buying a diesel. 25-3500 Ram. Maybe i'll meet some good folks when i get out there so i don't have to ask my newbie questions here and sort through 7 pages of contradicting arguments. To those of you who have truly just tried and successfully provided information and not been jerks: thank you a ton for your input!

If you look at the Ram 2500, be aware that it has coil springs in the rear. That will give a cushy ride but limit any attempt to beef up the suspension if you ever need to use the truck at full load capacity. I am sure opinions will vary on this with contradicting arguments, but I would never buy one.

[Kavoom]

th3_fix3r wrote:
I'm screwed, huh? So although I can technically pull almost 10Klbs... the tongue weight alone screws me?

Not really... Three people? I have a 2015 Ram Outdoorsman with similar ratings although a couple hundred lbs more capacity, but do the math? We got an Aspen Trail 2340 at 5500 dry weight and 600 dry hitch weight add 200 lbs for batts and propane. So, we are at 800 there. Us and the dogs are let's say 250 lbs (All right 300). so you are now at 1050. Put a WDH (hitch) and you are there. I think you can feel safe putting a cooler in the back. So, you have to adjust around NOT really using your truck bed for much but that's not all that different than people with SUV's so... I can put a couple of things more as I have a couple more lbs but that will teach you to get a laramie. All those goodies that come on em add up weightwise. My understanding is that the "capacity" for the RAM linked site is calculated with a full tank of gas also. If you have the big gas tank (32 gal) that is 265 lbs... So, be cognizant of capacity, but don't count ounces... You will run through that gas real fast like 9 MPG... I also have 2K capacity for the trailer to stow stuff and a 7700 lb total. So, that is where your trailer towing capability on the RAM is good to go.

I also put air bags on it and have a Fastway E2 Hitch (10K version). The airbags do NOT necessarily ADD capacity but they don't hurt and improve the ride while the WDH will shift weight to the front keeping you level AND helping the overall situation.

Oh wait, if you are looking for an excuse to get a 2500, then never mind