Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: Need Advice
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Buzzcut1

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Posted: 04/18/21 11:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

toedtoes wrote:

The first mistake people make is using the camper's dry weight to determine if the vehicle is enough to tow or carry a camper.

ALWAYS use the GVWR of the camper. You may end up with less actual weight, but you won't be overweight.

Years ago, my aunt's then husband overloaded the year axle of their station wagon with firewood. The axle broke on the way home and he was in the hospital lucky to be alive.

Is it worth the risk to "be lucky"?


Truck campers don't have wheels or a GVWR only the truck that carries them does. They only thing a truck camper has in a MFG weight sticker (before options and gear) listed)


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Geo*Boy

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Posted: 04/18/21 02:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Easy fix, get rid of the Travel Lite and find a nice Four Wheeler pop up TC.

toedtoes

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Posted: 04/18/21 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Buzzcut1 wrote:


Truck campers don't have wheels or a GVWR only the truck that carries them does. They only thing a truck camper has in a MFG weight sticker (before options and gear) listed)


I didn't realize they don't have their own CCC. That makes it a bit more difficult, but the manufacturer (not the dealer) should be able to give you a decent estimate with manufacturer installed options - then just add any dealer installed options, propane and water weights, and a high estimate of gear weights.


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Bert the Welder

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Posted: 04/18/21 03:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

toedtoes wrote:

Buzzcut1 wrote:


Truck campers don't have wheels or a GVWR only the truck that carries them does. They only thing a truck camper has in a MFG weight sticker (before options and gear) listed)


I didn't realize they don't have their own CCC. That makes it a bit more difficult, but the manufacturer (not the dealer) should be able to give you a decent estimate with manufacturer installed options - then just add any dealer installed options, propane and water weights, and a high estimate of gear weights.


Doesn't really matter at this point, he's already stepped in it and walked on grandma's white carpet.....
And most manufactures seem to be unable/ unwilling to weight their units in the first place so I double their 2 cents is worth the effort after the fact.


"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.


Originalwingman

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Posted: 04/19/21 03:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MORSNOW wrote:

You found out what many have said on here thousands of times, those factory weight labels are not even close to accurate for an actual built weight (1,280 lbs right?). It's probably closer to 1,800 lbs before you added anything inside. Your 150 series truck tires are probably WAY overloaded too. A 250 is really needed.
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Originalwingman

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Posted: 04/19/21 03:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MORSNOW wrote:

You found out what many have said on here thousands of times, those factory weight labels are not even close to accurate for an actual built weight (1,280 lbs right?). It's probably closer to 1,800 lbs before you added anything inside. Your 150 series truck tires are probably WAY overloaded too. A 250 is really needed.
I have added new tires that are not overloaded.

Originalwingman

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Posted: 04/19/21 03:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jimh425 wrote:

I’m sure someone has, but based on your post, you are almost double the payload of your truck.. If you are planning on only doing one trip, maybe you’ll be lucky just like the person who drove from Michigan to Yellowstone and back.

As far as can’t afford a F250 goes, there are large variations in prices of diesel vs gasoline. I’m not sure you can afford the wreck by leaving the rig you have. Also, consider a F350. You can go all of the way back to early 2000 and have a very capable gasoline proper sized truck.

The biggest danger you have is tires. They will be fine until they fail. Next, are your brakes. Since you are double the recommended payload, I don’t think it would be unusual for other components to fail as well.

Finally, you are severely limited in what you can carry with you being already way over payload. It doesn’t sound like fun to me.
The weights I gave are for fully loaded with gear, fuel and people. Thank you

Originalwingman

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Posted: 04/19/21 03:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BradW wrote:

A couple of things to consider. The vast majority of hardside truck camper carrying SRW trucks you see on the road are over their gvwr. Also, many axles are rated based on the tire/wheel package they originaly came with. The same axle may have a higher gawr on a different truck. You never want to exceed the maximum payload rating of any tire.
Thank you. I will look into information on my axle and rear end. My neighbor said the same thing you did.

Originalwingman

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Posted: 04/19/21 03:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MFL wrote:

My neighbor has a 2019 GM 1500, with a pop up top, truck camper on it. Loaded, he is likely over some ratings. Here it comes...he also hooks his heavy boat, with tandem axle trailer on truck receiver, and drives 120 miles, up/down hills to the river. Yup, two summers now, works great! [emoticon]

Jerry
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Originalwingman

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Posted: 04/19/21 03:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

toedtoes wrote:

The first mistake people make is using the camper's dry weight to determine if the vehicle is enough to tow or carry a camper.

ALWAYS use the GVWR of the camper. You may end up with less actual weight, but you won't be overweight.

Years ago, my aunt's then husband overloaded the year axle of their station wagon with firewood. The axle broke on the way home and he was in the hospital lucky to be alive.

Is it worth the risk to "be lucky"?
Thank you

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