I am Yu

USA

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I have a fold-down gooseneck ball in my truck like this one:
www.curtmfg.com/part/61052
I have a bed mat that makes the floor even with the hitch plate. Would it work to have a truck camper sitting on top of that? I can remove the safety chain u-bolts, but the carriage bolt heads would still be sticking up.
If I really had to I guess I could remove the whole hitch plate whenever I need to, but that would leave a big hole in the truck bed.
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Slymer

Ontario, Canada

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I wouldn’t risk it. I used to switch up from TC to 5th wheel. To put the TC in I had to make a bed out of 2 x 4’s to get over the hitch mounting rails. Then I put the mat on top. If your TC isn’t super heavy & you can afford to raise it 1.5 “ higher then I would try that route.
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fpoole

PNW and Beyond

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Don't know on that one, but something to consider might be putting the camper on a gooseneck trailer.
Gives freedom of truck when parked/camped out, great storage and a deck depending upon length.. depending on type of camping, just a thought...
* This post was
edited 04/18/21 03:47pm by fpoole *
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352

Oxfofd, Fl

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HERE
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1985 Chevy Silverado c10. 454 stroker / 495 CI = 675 HP. 650lb of torque. Turb0 400 tranny. 3000 stall converter. Aluminum heads. 3 inch exhaust flowmasters. 2 inch headers. Heat and air. Tubed.
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352

Oxfofd, Fl

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I have rails in my truck for a 5er. When I take my slide in I put two 2x4s parallel with the rails the length of the bed and put the slide in on.
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Bert the Welder

Van. Island

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I'm guess from the pic, but it look like an inch with the plate thickness and carriage bolt heads?
And just for clarity, have you cut a hole in your bed mat that goes around the hitch plate?
If your mat sits at the same level of the bolt head tops, you have to account for the mat compressing. So might be an issue, depending on the mat density. I think I'd want a minimum of a 1/2 to 3/4" above the highest part sticking out of the hitch. So either another mat on top or under. Or a plywood sheet under. Both/either of them with a hole cut out for the hitch.
Pic's are always helpful but a PITA to post on here....
"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.
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jimh406

Western MT

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I have a B&W because it came with the used truck. Only a very small amount of mine comes through the bed and it’s is pretty much level with the corrugation. The tiedown hooks are the the same.
I’m assuming that’s what the Curt does, but I didn’t see a picture of an install.
I have a Deezee mat over mine. I haven’t had any issues, but I’ve only had mine about 6 years with my Host. Of course, it’s not on all of the time, but I’ve loaded/unloaded a lot of times.
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Toyo M655 225/19.5 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
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Buzzcut1

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put a 3/4 "horse stall mat in the bed with a cut out for the carriage bolts and call it good.
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 08 Lance 1055, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags
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noteven

Turtle Island

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My Cirrus camper has removable service panels on the bottom. I found stall mats to be pretty dense vs the screws holding the panels on. I changed to anti fatigue matting with the round holes.
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jaycocreek

Idaho

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352 wrote: I have rails in my truck for a 5er. When I take my slide in I put two 2x4s parallel with the rails the length of the bed and put the slide in on.
That's exactly how I did it when I had my Jayco fifth wheel and a truck camper at the same time...Cheap and easy plus it works..
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